My Engine Break-In Checklist

[Tracy C.]

Re: My Engine Break-In Checklist

Mark,

As others have stated, Plain water is the way to go. Following shut down, I blew the lower radiator hose off the water pump and gave everyone a shower. It was a huge mess, thankfully no antifreeze.

No need for a fancy set up. You need a way to kill power to the distributor, an oil pressure gage and a tach. Fuel pressure will take care of itself if you have a new or rebuilt pump.

Here is a link to a video of my initial startup, there in you will see why oil in the tranny as previously mentioned is mandatory. Even in neutral, it spin up the drive yoke like the Tasmanian devil.

Good luck.
tc

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ra11udZt_rw

[Richard G.]

Re: My Engine Break-In Checklist

I thought having the infrared thermometer as a back up for temperature readings was a really good idea.
Wearing your NCRS "T"shirt for the Video, Priceless!
Thanks for sharing the video.

There is a Video on YouTube with the start up of a 435Hp. Not a single leak or anything. Hits the starter and it starts and idles perfectly. No way it was believable!

[Mark P.]

Re: My Engine Break-In Checklist

Tracy - the video is very helpful to understand the set-up and process. I have my shifter installed, it is in neutral and has fresh transmission oil. Mark

[James G.]

Re: My Engine Break-In Checklist

I use to fill the oil filter can with oil, BEFORE the first CRANK OR start.

And without a radiator, [ I don't see one in your frame photo ] I NOW SEE

1. Install fan, pulley, alternator and belt
2. Install radiator and secure to frame. Use a fan to blow air through the radiator.

ALL VERY GOOD, ESPECIALLY THE FAN. USE OF A IR GUN TO READ TEMP IS VERY HELPFUL.

[Rod K.]

Re: My Engine Break-In Checklist

I think you'll have to rotate the crank TWO complete revolutions for all lifters to be fully exposed to pressurized oil.

[Jill J.]

Re: My Engine Break-In Checklist

I would make sure you have a ballast resister installed so your coil doesn't burn up. And do you need to check your points beforehand for any previous wear to make sure it doesn't affect your timing setting?

I just broke in my 283 (270hp) in January. It was scary, yet exciting all at the same time. Everything went off without a hitch. Good luck on your break-in!!!


Jill, 59140

[Tom B.]

Re: My Engine Break-In Checklist

I'm a little old school, I guess, and have never went to these lengths when starting a new engine and have never had a failure. I fill the oil filter with oil before installing it so I have oil instantly when cranking. I coat the cam with the manufacturer's recommended assembly lube and everything else with GM EOS then pour the rest of the pint in the crankcase. Back in the '60s we used STP to coat everything and switched to EOS in the '70s. No special cam lubes. Water in the radiator in case there is a gasket leak. You don't want anti freeze in your cylinders. I also set a box fan on blocks in front of the radiator to supply a steady flow of air through the radiator.
With the coil wire unplugged and the spark plugs removed so the engine spins freely, I crank it over with the starter until oil pressure shows up on the gauge and then watch for oil at the rockers. Then I install the plugs, connect the coil wire, turn on the box fan and fire it up. The first thing I look for then is fuel leaks then oil and water leaks. if all is well I bring up the rpm to 2000 and spend the next 20 to 30 minutes watching gauges and monitoring temps. I have a primer in my box but haven't used it yet. With good access with no body on it's probably a good idea to use one.
I agree that it isn't necessary to change the oil after run in but change the filter. A few years ago I started using a FilterMag (at Summit and others) on the oil filter. It is a curved flat earth magnet that fits the contour of the filter and will catch all metallic material flowing through the filter against the inside wall of the can. When you remove your break in filter, cut it open and see what the magnet caught. There will be some particles but should not be a lot of metal in there.

Tom

[Mark P.]

Re: My Engine Break-In Checklist

Thanks for all the advice. I will be breaking it in next weekend and am all ready to go. I built the start-up box this weekend and it has a ballast resistor installed. I installed it in a HF ammo can. I will add oil to the filter then use the oil primer tool and static time it before running it.

Mark

[Gary B.]

Re: My Engine Break-In Checklist

Mark,

How about taking a video with sound, to show us at our next Chapter meeting?

Gary

[Mark P.]

Re: My Engine Break-In Checklist

I'll try to do that Gary.

[Mark P.]

Re: My Engine Break-In Checklist

I completed the 30 min break-in today (200-2500 rpm) and everything went well. Started up in 3 seconds and ran smoothly. I couldn't get the ohm meter to work for static timing so I just marked the #1 location on a piece of tape on the distributor and set the harmonic balancer at 8 BTDC. I made sure the rotor lined up with the center-line on the tape and the vacuum pot was centered between the coil and intake manifold. I used a big screwdriver to get the slot lined up before dropping in the distributor. After break-in I checked the timing at idle with the vacuum plugged and it was at about 6 BTDC. I adjusted it to 8 and it ran a little better. Thanks everyone for your help.

[Ian G.]

Re: My Engine Break-In Checklist

Mind posting the final break in list?

[Mark P.]

Re: My Engine Break-In Checklist

Here you go Ian:

Here is my break in checklist for my rebuilt 1965 327 300HP engine. All components of the long block are new except the block, heads and crank and which are all freshly machined. This will be my first break in and the engine is mounted on the chassis without the body.


Here are a couple of videos on the pre-check and the initial start-up. For the start up you can hear my truck running since I used it to jump my weak battery.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GjOl78ehZu4

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tus8v89Fbl0

Here is a photo of the gauges. I think this seems normal. I used the Melling 10553 Oil Pump with the stock spring GM3814903 to achieve OEM oil pressure. Was in the range of 40-45 lbs when warm at 2,000 RPM.