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70 LT1 fuel lines

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  • Dennis D.
    Extremely Frequent Poster
    • March 1, 2000
    • 1071

    #16
    Re: 70 LT1 fuel lines

    Thanks Patrick. Theres a Grainger by me

    Comment

    • Gary S.
      Extremely Frequent Poster
      • July 31, 1992
      • 1628

      #17
      Re: 70 LT1 fuel lines

      Originally posted by Patrick Boyd (9110)
      I have not seen purple ones like your photo. I have seen similar gaskets that are soft copper. The are sold by Granger’s (an industrial supply company). If the bowel lines are the same size as the fuel pump line, they are 3/8 flare if not they are 5/16.
      I opened up the picture and it says "flairtite.jpg" so I googled that and found the site. Is this a cure someone has used or is it a bandaid? I have read here that others have had issues with repro lines but right now, nothing I can do is sealing the line to the filter nut on the carb. I will have to measure my line but I am fairly certain it is 5/16.

      Comment

      • Dennis D.
        Extremely Frequent Poster
        • March 1, 2000
        • 1071

        #18
        Re: 70 LT1 fuel lines

        Not finding anything on the Grainger site

        Comment

        • Patrick B.
          Extremely Frequent Poster
          • August 31, 1985
          • 1986

          #19
          Re: 70 LT1 fuel lines

          Originally posted by Dennis Delpome (33752)
          Not finding anything on the Grainger site
          Google Parker 3/8 copper flare gasket. A Grainger ad as well as others popped up. The Grainer item number was 5WPW3. There were several Amazon suppliers too, but it seemed like the sizes and quantities were ambiguous. Grainger sold a pack of 10 gaskets for $11. They are used with air conditioning lines at quite high pressure. I have not used them, but they were mentioned in a previous TDB thread about brake lines I believe.

          Comment

          • Dennis D.
            Extremely Frequent Poster
            • March 1, 2000
            • 1071

            #20
            Re: 70 LT1 fuel lines

            Originally posted by Patrick Boyd (9110)
            Google Parker 3/8 copper flare gasket. A Grainger ad as well as others popped up. The Grainer item number was 5WPW3. There were several Amazon suppliers too, but it seemed like the sizes and quantities were ambiguous. Grainger sold a pack of 10 gaskets for $11. They are used with air conditioning lines at quite high pressure. I have not used them, but they were mentioned in a previous TDB thread about brake lines I believe.

            disco on grainger. got a pack on amazon
            Parker Hannifin 2GF-6-pk10 Flare Gasket, Parker Hannifin 2GF-6-pk10 Flare Gasket,

            Comment

            • Erich M.
              Frequent User
              • November 1, 1985
              • 65

              #21
              Re: 70 LT1 fuel lines

              Interesting thread gentlemen! Like I said, I had a terrible time trying to remove the bowl lines from the block, so I gave up. This was years ago. I am the original owner of my car and today the color of my block is a dark black metal color similar the to black chrome transmission shifter knob. My memory tells me that the block color was originally a brass color, but I'm not sure.

              I would welcome your comments on my inability to remove my carb lines from the block. I used a flare nut wrench but could nut budge them. Was afraid of stripping the hex nut so I gave up. Are you fellows working with the original block/line assembly or was this unit disassembled at any time before you owned your cars?

              Erich Meyer 72 LT1

              Comment

              • Gary S.
                Extremely Frequent Poster
                • July 31, 1992
                • 1628

                #22
                Re: 70 LT1 fuel lines

                Erich,
                My 41000 mile 72 LT-1 also has the black colored block and is presumed to be original. I will have to check my TIM&JG to verify that last statement though.

                The best way for me to break the lines free was to keep everything fairly tight, more than finger tight, and I put a crescent wrench on the block and my flare nut wrench on the nut. That worked well and there are no marks on the block. I assume you sprayed the nuts with a decent penetrating oil such as PB Blaster or Kroil?

                Gary S.

                Comment

                • Erich M.
                  Frequent User
                  • November 1, 1985
                  • 65

                  #23
                  Re: 70 LT1 fuel lines

                  Gary,

                  Thanks for the info! Just checked the TIM&JG, it says the original block finish is "black plated". I guess my memory serves me incorrectly. My finish looks like what is shown in the TIM&JG. My car has a little over 60,000 and yes I tried penetrating oils (don't remember which brand) with no success.

                  Erich Meyer

                  Comment

                  • Patrick B.
                    Extremely Frequent Poster
                    • August 31, 1985
                    • 1986

                    #24

                    Comment

                    • Erich M.
                      Frequent User
                      • November 1, 1985
                      • 65

                      #25
                      Re: 70 LT1 fuel lines

                      Patrick,

                      Great idea! I have not tried to remove the fuel pump line at the block. Do not know if I can break that loose. Another possibility is to remove the entire fuel line assembly from the fuel pump end (if that is possible) to the carb bowl fittings and work on the assembly at the bench. This is where someone suggested to apply heat to the block if using your hammer and 6 point wrench does not work.

                      I never thought about the possibility of the line wrench spreading! Good idea and something I can look into. In any case, I am the original owner of this car (Top Flight & Bowtie) and to not like to fix something that isn't broke. I have been able to get around this problem by keeping the factory fuel line assembly intact.

                      Your thoughts are very much appreciated since I worry about what to do if I ever HAVE to break the block connections for some reason. I certainly do not like the idea of applying heat to the block on the bench. Since I am the original owner, I am also curious if anyone else has had a block connection this tight.

                      Once again, thank you very much for your input.

                      Erich Meyer

                      Comment

                      • Terry M.
                        Beyond Control Poster
                        • September 30, 1980
                        • 15573

                        #26
                        Re: 70 LT1 fuel lines

                        Originally posted by Erich Meyer (9249)
                        Patrick,

                        Great idea! I have not tried to remove the fuel pump line at the block. Do not know if I can break that loose. Another possibility is to remove the entire fuel line assembly from the fuel pump end (if that is possible) to the carb bowl fittings and work on the assembly at the bench. This is where someone suggested to apply heat to the block if using your hammer and 6 point wrench does not work.

                        I never thought about the possibility of the line wrench spreading! Good idea and something I can look into. In any case, I am the original owner of this car (Top Flight & Bowtie) and to not like to fix something that isn't broke. I have been able to get around this problem by keeping the factory fuel line assembly intact.

                        Your thoughts are very much appreciated since I worry about what to do if I ever HAVE to break the block connections for some reason. I certainly do not like the idea of applying heat to the block on the bench. Since I am the original owner, I am also curious if anyone else has had a block connection this tight.

                        Once again, thank you very much for your input.

                        Erich Meyer
                        I once tried to take the block connections loose. It has been long ago. All I remember is I couldn't get all three of them loose, but I worked around that somehow. The exact circumstances are lost to time.

                        One thing that has puzzled me about the fuel lines on my 1970 is that the block is twisted upwards, as if someone tried to get the passenger side rocker cover off and twisted the block and the line from the fuel pump upwards for clearance. It wasn't me that did that, and I can't tell you if it was the dealer or factory that did it, however with solid lifters it has come in handy over the years.

                        My block used to look brass colored, but as it has aged it has turned more black, but it is still lighter than others I have seen. I have never been able to figure out what is up with that either.
                        Terry

                        Comment

                        • Patrick B.
                          Extremely Frequent Poster
                          • August 31, 1985
                          • 1986

                          #27
                          Re: 70 LT1 fuel lines

                          Erich --- Taking the whole line out so you can work on it in a vice is a good idea. I think it would not be hard to do if you remove the upper radiator hose from the manifold to get room to maneuver the line. I think once you have the junction block held in a sturdy vice, it will not require any heat to loosen the lines. You can use a six point box wrench that will not round the corners of the nut even with a hammer blow.

                          Comment

                          • Erich M.
                            Frequent User
                            • November 1, 1985
                            • 65

                            #28
                            Re: 70 LT1 fuel lines

                            IMG_20200403_113044849.jpg


                            All,

                            Thanks for your input. It's great to know, Terry, that I'm not the only one having line removal issues with this block. I also came across this issue quite some time ago, probably around 2004, and decided to try and find a work-around. I agree that the best way to work on the block lines is to remove the entire assembly and get it on the bench. I would not recommend putting heat on it because it would damage the finish besides maybe igniting any residual fuel.

                            I've attached a picture of my installed fuel line assembly. The block is obviously in a horizontal plane an the finish is original. I don't think it is "black plated" as stated in the TIM&JG but some sort of anodizing process (maybe I'm wrong). I do have a recollection that it was somewhat lighter than what it is now.

                            Erich Meyer

                            Comment

                            • Gary S.
                              Extremely Frequent Poster
                              • July 31, 1992
                              • 1628

                              #29
                              Re: 70 LT1 fuel lines

                              And here is mine - finally reassembled after too many attempts to stop the dripping at the secondary fuel filter nut. My block is not quite horizontal. Other than routing for full time vacuum to distributor, we appear fairly in sync.

                              Gary S.
                              Attached Files

                              Comment

                              • Erich M.
                                Frequent User
                                • November 1, 1985
                                • 65

                                #30
                                Re: 70 LT1 fuel lines

                                Gary,

                                Looks pretty horizontal to me going by the picture. By the way, looking at your picture, I want to mention that my secondary fuel line support wrapped around the fuel line in the area of the bend. It was located at approximately a 45 deg angle coming from the right rear carb stud. It was difficult to get the support over the carb stud and dug into the top of the carb base. I recently removed it in order to not continue damaging the carb base. Looked like a Rube Goldberg set up right from the factory, right down to the wrap around the fuel line. It seems to me that this support didn't do much in terms of functionality.

                                Erich Meyer

                                Comment

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