C3 gage cluster

[Patrick H.]

Re: C3 gage cluster

You can have the speakers restored/reconed for not a lot of money.

If you buy a new one, there are some nice replacements available, or there have been new GM ones.
You will need a 10 ohm speaker, not the 4 ohm speakers sold by every radio place.

[Joe L.]

Re: C3 gage cluster

You can have the speakers restored/reconed for not a lot of money.

If you buy a new one, there are some nice replacements available, or there have been new GM ones.
You will need a 10 ohm speaker, not the 4 ohm speakers sold by every radio place.

Patrick------


As I mentioned in another thread, GM #15173233. Perfect replacements for any 1970-77. Made in China? Yes; so are iPhones (that everyone wants).

Also, you can obtain excellent reproductions of all Corvette speakers from the below. These are 10 OHM speakers, as original and as required.

http://www.turnswitch.com/speakers.htm

[Joe L.]

Re: C3 gage cluster

+1 on the brake booster probably being the worst project on a C3. When I first got my ‘73 I had to replace the booster and drop the clutch/brake pedal assembly for some repairs. Lots of ratchet extensions, universals etc. The only saving grace that a ‘73 doesn’t have the wiper door assembly to contend with.

When removing the gauge cluster and/or radio, I generally try not to remove the center console or the e-brake cover unless absolutely necessary. To get a little more flex in the assembly I remove the RH dash panel, all of the cluster screws and remove the top three screws on the LH side. The allows the dash top pad to flex up a bit to R&R the cluster without breaking it. The two nuts up under the radio are pretty tight to get to. I use a 1/4” socket with some electrical tape wrapped around it so I can finger loosen and tight the nuts, not much room for any kind of wrench in there.

Also on radio, I just sent my AM/FM stereo to Precision Stereo Repair in Utica N.Y. Not sure what the cost will be yet but I spoke to the owner, Robert, and he was a very nice, knowledgeable guy. He said if you’re not popping fuses, the stereo amp is generally okay.

Good luck on your project, keep things sorted as you disassemble and take your time.

John------


I have never had to remove the center console in order to remove the center instrument bezel and radio. In fact, to remove the center console requires the first removal of the nuts on the 2 studs at the bottom of the center bezel. This is the most difficult part of the entire effort to remove the center bezel.

[Patrick B.]

Re: C3 gage cluster

Thanks for the suggestions on the speakers. The left hand speaker also measured as an open circuit testing it from the wiring accessible from the right side gage console. Even with the drivers seat out, I could not maneuver into a position to even SEE the left hand speaker, so my greatest aspiration would be to have the radio work with a new right speaker only. I am not willing to remove the steering column and pedal assembly to replace a speaker. Every one seems to agree that 4 ohm speakers will damage a Corvette radio. I am angry that reputable Corvette parts vendors even sell them, and I fear the Paragon speaker I just put in my 67 could be a 4 ohm speaker even though it was supposed to be special for C2 Corvettes.

The speakers that Gary recommended in the other thread are only advertised in pairs. Since I am only going to replace the right side speaker I ordered a single GM 15173233 as Joe recommended from Amazon for $42. I fear that the radio is also dead because I could not get sound from another speaker I attached with clip leads, but for $42 I will know for sure.

Joe -- When you say you never removed the center console to remove the instrument bezel and radio, did you move the console back with the bezel studs still attached? How did you remove the radio? The dash pads, instrument bezel and consoles are really mint in this car and I would rather just consider it a "radio delete" than mess them up.

[Joe L.]

Re: C3 gage cluster

Thanks for the suggestions on the speakers. The left hand speaker also measured as an open circuit testing it from the wiring accessible from the right side gage console. Even with the drivers seat out, I could not maneuver into a position to even SEE the left hand speaker, so my greatest aspiration would be to have the radio work with a new right speaker only. I am not willing to remove the steering column and pedal assembly to replace a speaker. Every one seems to agree that 4 ohm speakers will damage a Corvette radio. I am angry that reputable Corvette parts vendors even sell them, and I fear the Paragon speaker I just put in my 67 could be a 4 ohm speaker even though it was supposed to be special for C2 Corvettes.

The speakers that Gary recommended in the other thread are only advertised in pairs. Since I am only going to replace the right side speaker I ordered a single GM 15173233 as Joe recommended from Amazon for $42. I fear that the radio is also dead because I could not get sound from another speaker I attached with clip leads, but for $42 I will know for sure.

Joe -- When you say you never removed the center console to remove the instrument bezel and radio, did you move the console back with the bezel studs still attached? How did you remove the radio? The dash pads, instrument bezel and consoles are really mint in this car and I would rather just consider it a "radio delete" than mess them up.

Patrick------


I did not move the console back. Once the nuts on the lower studs are removed (or backed way off), the center bezel can be removed. The "horseshoe bracket" to which the studs attach is slotted so the bezel does not have to be completely raised to free it from the bracket. Keep in mind that the nuts which fasten the radio to the center bezel (behind the knobs) have to be removed. Then, having also first removed the right side dash pad (which is very easy) the bezel can be worked out. Just be careful not to grasp it from the top portion and proceed cautiously.

Once the bezel is out, removing the radio is very easy. Just remove the strap on one side, the electrical connectors, and the antenna plug. Done. I've done this several times with no problems,

[Patrick H.]

Re: C3 gage cluster

The speakers that Gary recommended in the other thread are only advertised in pairs.

I would have just replaced both. It's not like the other one isn't 50 years old, after all.

[Patrick B.]

Re: C3 gage cluster

I would have just replaced both. It's not like the other one isn't 50 years old, after all.

[Patrick H.]

Re: C3 gage cluster

No. As has been mentioned on this or another recent thread, it's a lot of work to replace the left speaker.

[Leonard M.]

Re: C3 gage cluster

Patrick Boyd, I've replaced speakers in a '70 and 2 x 72s. There may be a number of parts to remove or loosen, but you do not have to remove the column, pedals or left gauges/dash. In each case I pulled the dash top. That was the biggest concern of doing the job. You must slightly flex the pad and I have read that it is possible to crack it. I had no problems with the R & R on any. I did attempt to prop up the dash pad the 3rd time using padded 2x4 scraps and working in the gap. I almost had success, but lost my 1/4" socket and had to pull the pad anyhow.
I've read that some people claim to find build sheets in there. In any case it give you an opportunity to clean where the pad meets the windshield.

[Patrick B.]

Re: C3 gage cluster

Patrick Boyd, I've replaced speakers in a '70 and 2 x 72s. There may be a number of parts to remove or loosen, but you do not have to remove the column, pedals or left gauges/dash. In each case I pulled the dash top. That was the biggest concern of doing the job. You must slightly flex the pad and I have read that it is possible to crack it. I had no problems with the R & R on any. I did attempt to prop up the dash pad the 3rd time using padded 2x4 scraps and working in the gap. I almost had success, but lost my 1/4" socket and had to pull the pad anyhow.
I've read that some people claim to find build sheets in there. In any case it give you an opportunity to clean where the pad meets the windshield.

[Patrick H.]

Re: C3 gage cluster

I've done it by reaching in from the center once the gauge cluster is removed.
However, I still did not find it easy.
I have not personally ever removed a column to do it.

[Mark E.]

Re: C3 gage cluster

I've done it twice; each time I was in there anyway to replace the dash wiring harness. Here's what I remember:
- Loosen and lower the steering column. Not hard
- Remove the rocker panel cover and kick panel. Not hard
- Detach the speedo and tach cables; detach as many wires to the dash you can reach from underneath. Not hard
- Remove the LH dash panel. This is a lot easier since you already have the RH panel and instrument cluster removed.

If it were my car (and it's not), I would do what you plan... leave the LH dash alone and live with the old speaker. Sooner or later, when there's a real need to tear into the dash, the speaker can be replaced then.

Meanwhile, I like the idea from a prior post of using a bluetooth speaker- no alterations to the car, no commercials, your music, plus it sounds better than OEM.

[Patrick H.]

Re: C3 gage cluster

Meanwhile, I like the idea from a prior post of using a bluetooth speaker- no alterations to the car, no commercials, your music, plus it sounds better than OEM.

That's what I do with my 1970 Cutlass convertible.
The radio has not worked as long as I have owned it, and it only has one central dash speaker.

Bluetooth speaker on the floor, and all is good.

[Patrick B.]

Re: C3 gage cluster

I installed the GM 15173233 speaker on the right and confirmed that the radio as well as the speakers was dead. By the way, although the new GM speaker is the same shape as the old one, the mounting holes were in a different location and new holes had to be drilled. The nuts holding the gage cluster studs to the console seem even worse than described. Is the metal console reinforcement to which they are attached riveted to the console? Is there any way to get to these nuts by taking the console top plate off of the console?

[Mark E.]

Re: C3 gage cluster

Yes, the metal reinforcement is riveted to the console shell. But I just don't remember how I loosened the nuts. I may have slid the cluster and console back as an assembly.

I do remember seeing a photo on the forum showing how the nuts are reached using a 1/4" drive rachet and long extension. You might search for it. Remember the hole is slotted so it only needs to be loosened.