63 Muncie fill plug

[Domenic T.]

Re: 63 Muncie fill plug

Frank,
That would cause oil to come out the front flange especially while braking. I read in one manual that the level was to be about 1/2 " below the fill plug when cold.
One builder says it should be lower than 1/2". Good luck with the plug, I've been there with the water pump fitting that was on my aluminum manifold. It broke the manifold and I had to weld it back and tap it.

Dom

[Joe L.]

Re: 63 Muncie fill plug

All-------


This is what I did once-upon-a-time as a temporary solution:

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[Frank D.]

Re: 63 Muncie fill plug

Uh - help me out Joe - what am I looking at there ??
Did you grind off the original plug and tap it for a smaller one ?? Or is that a time-sert threaded for a new plug ?
And if so did you do it "in situ" (e.g. on the car) ?

I'm about one day short of "going medieval" on my boogered up plug with an extraction socket and I think that will fail, the plug material is just too soft and it'll just get shredded even more...

[Joe L.]

Re: 63 Muncie fill plug

Uh - help me out Joe - what am I looking at there ??
Did you grind off the original plug and tap it for a smaller one ?? Or is that a time-sert threaded for a new plug ?
And if so did you do it "in situ" (e.g. on the car) ?

I'm about one day short of "going medieval" on boogered up plug with an extraction socket and I think that will fail, the plug material is just too soft and it'll just get shredded even more...

Frank------


I ground the plug flat. Then, drilled and tapped for 1/4" NPT plug. I did it with the transmission out of the car but fully assembled. Exercised as much care as possible to prevent any chips getting into the transmission. However, if any did, there is a magnet on the bottom of a Muncie case which should attract them. By the way, it would have also been possible to drill and tap for a 3/8" NPT plug. Either way, it gives me the ability to check the trans fluid level and, if necessary, add.

When I get around to rebuilding it, I will drill out and remove the remnants of the seized plug as I described previously.

[Frank D.]

Re: 63 Muncie fill plug

Frank------


I ground the plug flat. Then, drilled and tapped for 1/4" NPT plug. I did it with the transmission out of the car but fully assembled. Exercised as much care as possible to prevent any chips getting into the transmission. However, if any did, there is a magnet on the bottom of a Muncie case which should attract them. By the way, it would have also been possible to drill and tap for a 3/8" NPT plug. Either way, it gives me the ability to check the trans fluid level and, if necessary, add.

When I get around to rebuilding it, I will drill out and remove the remnants of the seized plug as I described previously.

Gotcha. I'm being extra cautious as this is an original mid-May 63 Muncie case and I don't want to damage it...

At this point what I would really like is my hands around the neck of whatever clown cranked down on that plug and also apparently never used anti-seize on the threads...

[Joe L.]

Re: 63 Muncie fill plug

Gotcha. I'm being extra cautious as this is an original mid-May 63 Muncie case and I don't want to damage it...

At this point what I would really like is my hands around the neck of whatever clown cranked down on that plug and also apparently never used anti-seize on the threads...

Frank------


It does not take a lot of "cranking down" to cause this to happen. It's the dissimilar metal (galvanic) corrosion that causes the plug to seize. As far as an anti-seize is concerned, I had used teflon tape on my plug, It didn't prevent the problem.

[Frank D.]

Re: 63 Muncie fill plug

Frank------


It does not take a lot of "cranking down" to cause this to happen. It's the dissimilar metal (galvanic) corrosion that causes the plug to seize. As far as an anti-seize is concerned, I had used teflon tape on my plug, It didn't prevent the problem.

I understand... There is chemistry at work at this point over and above the mechanical bond...
I've seen it before on boat parts....