Advice on how to install my new DIPSTICK TUBE

[John L.]

I've just completed to wonderful task of removing my oil pan ('65 250 hp 327) in order to remove the broken piece of the dipstick tube stuck in the block. While I wait for the new part, seals and gaskets to arrive I thought I'd ask what IS the proper way to install these tubes?? Obviously when I reassembled the engine 11 years ago, I not only made the mistake of reusing the original tube but I recall installing it with a flat screwdriver and tapping it in around the flange.

reading the technical archives, Joe L. and others indicate this will eventually cause a failure and this is exactly what happened.

[Larry M.]

Re: Advice on how to install my new DIPSTICK TUBE

John,

Several years ago I was faced with the same situation. I used a bench belt sander to ever-so-slightly and just a little bit at a time reduce the OD of the end of the tube so that it could be pressed by hand into the block. It's a snug fit, though able to rotate through a small arc for ideal alignment with nearby components, and doesn't leak.

It did take me two tubes to get it right. I was too aggressive with sanding the first, and the fit ended up too loose and sloppy.

Larry

[Robert W.]

Re: Advice on how to install my new DIPSTICK TUBE

Do a search, I answered somebody with a picture of a tool that works great ~$20. I think I wrecked two tubes before breaking down and buying one. I know both Super Chevy and Ecklers sell it...

[Larry M.]

Re: Advice on how to install my new DIPSTICK TUBE

This is probably what you need. https://www.classicchevy.com/chevy-o...-388073-1.html

Larry

[Richard G.]

Re: Advice on how to install my new DIPSTICK TUBE

I wan't to know how you got the broken off piece of the tube out?

[Joe L.]

Re: Advice on how to install my new DIPSTICK TUBE

I've just completed to wonderful task of removing my oil pan ('65 250 hp 327) in order to remove the broken piece of the dipstick tube stuck in the block. While I wait for the new part, seals and gaskets to arrive I thought I'd ask what IS the proper way to install these tubes?? Obviously when I reassembled the engine 11 years ago, I not only made the mistake of reusing the original tube but I recall installing it with a flat screwdriver and tapping it in around the flange.

reading the technical archives, Joe L. and others indicate this will eventually cause a failure and this is exactly what happened.

John------


A home-made tool such as the one pictured below or the purchased special tool ( I have one of these, too, but I can't find it right now) is the ONLY way to install the tube. ANYTHING ELSE risks problems down the line. I strongly recommend buying the available special tool. Yes, you'll only rarely use it but it's relatively inexpensive. When you need it, it's worth its weight in gold.


DSCN3779.jpgDSCN3780.jpg

[Larry M.]

Re: Advice on how to install my new DIPSTICK TUBE

I wan't to know how you got the broken off piece of the tube out?

1. Use a self tapping screw/bolt of appropriate size to cut into the remaining piece of dipstick tube. Then grab bolt head with Vise-grips and pull/twist it out.

2. Worst case is remove pan and inner dipstick tube. The use a piece of oak or brass rod/dowel and drive the remaining piece of the outer tube out of the block. Replace inner tube and pan.

Larry

[Larry M.]

Re: Advice on how to install my new DIPSTICK TUBE

That method certainly sounds like it should work, and I tried my darndest to make it work back in 2016, but with no luck. Ended up like John removing the oil pan, which in hindsight I should have done right off the bat.
https://www.forums.ncrs.org/showthre...Block-1972-350

[John L.]

[Joseph L.]

Re: Advice on how to install my new DIPSTICK TUBE

The closed end of a 7/16 wrench, screwdriver, and hammer.

[Joe L.]

Re: Advice on how to install my new DIPSTICK TUBE

Thanks to all for all the responses
The part just got delivered and I’m trying to make something - if not I’ll order the tool - thinking about freezing it to make it easier
Yes Richard after screwing with the broken piece for several hours I had to drop the starter idler arm, oil/filter, pan and oil pump. Then drive the lower tube up to push it out - had to wale on it pretty hard with a brass bolt inserted and a BFH - I would have never gotten it out any other way.

John------


Something else: the tube must be driven in STRAIGHT-AND-TRUE. If it's off, even by a little, the tube will not be properly installed and will come out easily later. If this happens, the tube cannot be re-used and must be replaced with a new tube. This is one of the reasons that the installation tool is so essential. It allows one to carefully align the tube so that it will be driven in properly.

It is a good idea to put the tube in the freezer for several hours before installation. Remove it from the freezer immediately before installation.

[Steven B.]

Re: Advice on how to install my new DIPSTICK TUBE

I am about to do the same for my '57. In addition to freezing does lubing it help? Thanks! Steve

[Joe L.]

Re: Advice on how to install my new DIPSTICK TUBE

I am about to do the same for my '57. In addition to freezing does lubing it help? Thanks! Steve

Steve-----


Yes, I do that also but I don't know if it's absolutely necessary.

[John L.]

Re: Advice on how to install my new DIPSTICK TUBE

image0.jpeg

[Joe L.]

Re: Advice on how to install my new DIPSTICK TUBE

[ATTACH=CONFIG]101633[/ATTACH]
Steve
Using a tool Is important here - if you can find a piece of tubing and a bushing that is just a little bigger of the diameter of the tube then cut a slot in the tube from the (1” to 5.75 approx) for the curve of the new dipstick tube to escape. And a total "tool" of about 12". Then you can use this to tap your new piece in straight without crushing the flange and a future failure.
See Joe’s pictures of the “tool”
I’ll also try to post a picture

John and Steve------


A few important things:

If you make up a tool, the bottom surface must be absolutely perpendicular to the bore of the tube. It must not be angled in any way.

Whatever tool you use, the tool must be absolutely perpendicular to the block when the tube is driven in. If not, the tube will go in "cocked" and will subsequently come out easily. This is the primary reason why a commercial or made-up tool is so important. Alternate methods just won't achieve the perpendicularity required.