Questions for body shop

[Larry M.]

What questions would you (or better yet, me) ask of a body shop that will perform a strip and basecoat/clearcoat paint job on a 1972 coupe?

Some minor fiberglass repairs will be needed, but on a more involved scale, the front header will need repairs where the rivet bulges are showing.

The shop I'm leaning towards does rotisserie restorations on metal body cars, and I've seen examples of their 1968-1972 Corvette work, which gives me confidence in their skill, but other than questions I can think of myself, I'm interested in what you would ask up front (or maybe wished you had asked up front after the work was complete).

Larry

[Patrick B.]

Re: Questions for body shop

Make sure they do not intend to just sand the rivit bumps down or grind and fill You will be in worse shape when they reappear on your new expensive paint job with repaired glass above them. Unless you are at the body off stage, removing the header bar to replace the aluminum rivets with stainless steel or to bond it together without rivits (like a 73), is a very big job.

[Owen L.]

Re: Questions for body shop

One of the questions I've been pondering is about the door jambs for my own 72's repaint. Originally these areas were painted along with the exterior but didn't get any sort of polish which left them a satin-semi-gloss. Do you want the same look? Otherwise they'll be extremely glossy if treated the same way as the exterior surfaces.

[James G.]

Re: Questions for body shop

If you are planning on showing the car in the NCRS I would suggest that you have the shop you choose spray some test panels, send them to John Ballard and/or Tom Ames and have the samples checked.
IMHO the paint matching service provided by the NCRS is worth the membership fees alone.

BTW I really love the combo - huge fan of Pewter over Red or Blue.
There was a match to yours on ebay earlier this year or maybe it was late last year - 72 LT1 coupe Pewter over Red, even though it was literally in BOXES I was REAL tempted to pick it up due to the fact that it was built the same day I was born 4/13/72.
Turns out for the best as I would have had to pass when I was offered #11130, AND that would have killed me.

[Mark E.]

Re: Questions for body shop

First, heed what Patrick says about the corroded rivets along the front header. This is a major concern.

Paint:
- Clearly express what type of paint job you want. Original style with thin spots, runs, over spray and orange peel? Concurs?
- Level of finish? How much orange peel (aka distortion of image) do you want? Will it be color sanded and buffed to a mirror finish or left how it drys? Show the shop another car's finish that represents what you expect.
- Understand what trim will be removed vs. masked. Stainless around t-tops? Side glass wipes? Rear window trim? Door panels, handles and locks?
- Do you want the weatherstripping masked or replaced?
- Understand how the undercarriage and engine compartment will be protected from over spray
- Will doors, hood, and valance panels be removed? If doors are removed, consider new hinge pins
- Do you want the jambs dulled to mimic original finish? Or maybe sanded for a perfect surface?
- Blackout on door jambs, rear vents, cowl, underside of hood?

Body work:
- How are repairs done? Fiberglass mat? Is filler used? (You may want to specify it's not.) Do you want the back side finished so it's undetectable? Or is it ok if repairs are visible?
- Do you want factory imperfections corrected? For example, the quarter panel ripples and notches in front fender arches.
- How is the old finish removed? Whether blasted or with paint remover, what materials are used and are they safe for fiberglass?
- How are panels sanded? Blocked by hand? DA? How are panel peaks and ridges protected? (Rounded peaks and ridges are common damage that's done to fiberglass cars.)
- What substrate and paint system is used? Brand(s)? This specifies the layers (e.g. primer surfacer, sealer, ...). Number of coats for each? How many times is the bodywork primered/block sanded?
- How are trim and parts protected and stored during the work? Consider taking home stuff like door panels, grilles, lights, bumpers for safekeeping.
- Do any panels or trim need to be adjusted? Panel seams, flushness, hood, door, top adjustments. Grill and bumper alignment.

General:
- Where will be car be stored? How is it protected from dirt and dust? (There's a lot in a body shop.)
- Specify the stages in the project you want to inspect before work proceeds. For example, bodywork before primer, trial fitment of trim before paint, surface prep before paint
- Be clear what level of detail/perfection you want. A concurs paint job has 100 times more labor hours than a typical new car finish. Be realistic with what you can afford.
-Consider hiring an independent resource if you're not sure what to look for.
- Who pays for damage? For example, if a door panel is damaged during R&R, or carpet is soiled. Carefully photograph all details of the car before work begins, including the odometer.

[Larry M.]

Re: Questions for body shop

Patrick, Owen, James & Mark,

Thanks very much for your responses. I appreciate all your points about paint finish, but I won't be having the car judged, so jamb finish isn't one of my concerns. Great comments body work and paint; thanks.

I would remove and store the interior as well as probably 95% of the exterior chrome and trim prior to having the car towed to the shop.

The car will not be at the body off stage, and I agree that removing the header bar would be a big job. From what any of you know, would it be possible to drill out and replace the rivets one at a time, instead of removing them all at one time? My thought would be that in that case the header bar would not require removal, and would remain in place. Is that a workable technique?

[Mark E.]

Re: Questions for body shop

Can you share photos of the bulges? I repainted two cars from my past with minor bulging and didn't have issues for years until sold. I lived in Arizona at the time... maybe the dry climate helped?

[Dennis D.]

Re: Questions for body shop

[QUOTE=James Groome (65120);882633]If you are planning on showing the car in the NCRS I would suggest that you have the shop you choose spray some test panels, send them to John Ballard and/or Tom Ames and have the samples checked.

Checked against what standard?

[Terry M.]

Re: Questions for body shop

[QUOTE=Dennis Delpome (33752);882662]

If you are planning on showing the car in the NCRS I would suggest that you have the shop you choose spray some test panels, send them to John Ballard and/or Tom Ames and have the samples checked.

Checked against what standard?

John and Tom have the factory paint cards that were used as standards in production. In most cases those have been used, along with factory painted cars, as standards. That system seems good enough, although some people think it is too rigorous.

[Larry M.]

Re: Questions for body shop

Can you share photos of the bulges?

It looks like the answer is yes, I can share photos, but in the photos the bulges are all but invisible to the eye.
IMG_3092.jpgIMG_3093.jpgIMG_3094.jpgIMG_3095.jpg

[Larry M.]

Re: Questions for body shop

And one more that wouldn't fit in my other reply...
IMG_3096.jpg

[Terry M.]

Re: Questions for body shop

The bumps are usually more visible from 10 feet, more or less, with the light at an angle to the front of the car.

[Patrick B.]

Re: Questions for body shop

The car will not be at the body off stage, and I agree that removing the header bar would be a big job. From what any of you know, would it be possible to drill out and replace the rivets one at a time, instead of removing them all at one time? My thought would be that in that case the header bar would not require removal, and would remain in place. Is that a workable technique?

[James G.]

Re: Questions for body shop

When was the last time the car was painted?
I am assuming that is not the original lacquer given the lack of any visible checking, maybe enamel looking at the paint texture.

IF you had it done long ago.
Was any body damage present, prior to last paint?
FWIW
I don't see any visible stress cracks around the headlamp openings, if the body lacks stress cracks in the normal places where they typically develop, there are no panels being rebonded or new panels being bonded into the car and you are currently happy with the gaps, panel alignment, as well as the fit of the bumpers, and grilles then the job is really not too involved for someone who paints C3's. UNLESS there is prior damage which is not visible currently.

[Larry M.]

Re: Questions for body shop

Terry,

You're right; these two photos taken from a little farther away show the bumps a bit better. In the first, they're visible just below the driver's side front edge of the hood. In the second, they're visible just above the driver's side headlamp door.
IMG_3097.jpg

IMG_3099.jpg