1967 Kick Panels and Kick Panel Trim

[Ted F.]

Just as a reminder, I am not great at this; but learning.

I put a new interior in my 1967 last spring. We were moving so I put the kick panels in just to get them in. The screw holes were to big and I filled the holes with 2 part epoxy. It did not hold. I could not find my kick panel trim when we got moved in. The original will turn up, but I bought new from Corvette Central. The holes in the trim does not match up with the side panels.

So what am I missing? How should I attach the kick panels so they stay connected? Should I fiberglass the holes? Do I need the panel trim? Why do the holes not line up? This car will never be Bloomington Gold, the engine is gone, but it is part of the family.

Thank you for your help!

God bless!

[Alan D.]

Re: 1967 Kick Panels and Kick Panel Trim

Little confused here, just where are you trying to fill? Number 7 is sometimes called Kick Panel, although it's the Cover Asm
Are you talking about the metal retainer, #14?

[Ted F.]

Re: 1967 Kick Panels and Kick Panel Trim

Sorry it took a day to get back with you.
Thank you for your help.1967 NCRS Corvette Technical Information Manual and Judging Manual page 49.jpg.jpg1967 Kick Panel holes.jpg1967 Kick Panel carpet and trim.jpg

I believe it is your number 8, in your photo. I am showing drivers side in the picture.

The book page is #49 in the NCRS 1967 7th Edition Corvette Technical Information Manual and Judging Guide.

I was really surprised the holes in the Kick Panel Trim did not match the holes in the carpet that came from Mid-America? It was the first thing that did not, but the Kick Panel came from Corvette Central.

God bless!

Ted

[Stephen L.]

Re: 1967 Kick Panels and Kick Panel Trim

Ted, I believe the metal piece you have is for an earlier kick panel. The carpet piece you have shown is for a 67. The AIM drawing attached was redrawn and modified for the 67 year (Dwg made on 5/16/66) when GM redesigned/upgraded the interior. On your copy of the AIM the "pull bar" in the passenger dash is still there. My AIM UPC 1 ASM E1 has that eliminated. View "B" revised on 6/17/66, which changed the metal trim piece item #14.
Maybe a carpet piece from an earlier 66 interior might work.....
Note: I ran into a similiar problem at a Regional Judging meet concerning a vinyl piece glued below the rear window that was "missing" according to the judge. Well I challenged that because the 67 AIM did NOT show that while the 66 AIM did. I won the argument because I was able to produce the page from a 66 AIM that showed the piece of vinyl which was noted as eliminated in 67 during the interior upgrades

[Alan D.]

Re: 1967 Kick Panels and Kick Panel Trim

Appears the carpet is cut for a 64. For 64 that top hole is about 3" down from the top, also the bottom hole is about 2.5" back from end of metal. From what you show from JG the 67 appears to be closer to the top so the metal seems to be correct. Did not realize that GM changed the hole locations. Good news is that the metal is correct - simple to make new holes in carpet.
Also pay close attention to the other 3 holes in the carpet, for 63/64 different screws were used at different locations, so just double your AIM to assure the correct screws are used.

Now lets hope some 67 guys chime in to confirm.
Alan

[Harry S.]

Re: 1967 Kick Panels and Kick Panel Trim

The metal trim that holds the kick panel changed in late 64 or for the 65 model year, Then it stay the same through 67. Why, The 63/64 metal trim had the uppermost hole near the top. At that location, you could not access the upper screw with factory A/C as the duct was in the way. The change was to lower the hole on the metal trim to allow access for cars with A/C.

The blue kick panel looks like 67, the metal trim looks like 63/64.

In 63 and 64 if your car had A/C the upper screw was not installed.

[Ted F.]

Re: 1967 Kick Panels and Kick Panel Trim

Alan,

Thanks for the help! Although I have owned this toy for 36 years it is always surprising me with new challenges. But that is what makes life so much fun!

My car is a 67 and the old carpet and trim worked with these holes. I may have to go hunting for my metal trim.

However over the years, working on the car, the holes have just gotten to big for the correct screws. I had tried to use epoxy glue to fill them, but they came loose. So now I am thinking about putting new fiberglass over these holes with a USC Fiberglass Kit I have. I am not sure that is the best answer. I will call Corvette Central tomorrow.

Thank you again and God bless!

Ted

[Ted F.]

Re: 1967 Kick Panels and Kick Panel Trim

Stephen,

Thank you! I am not sure why the pull bar would be there, if eliminated. The birth date of the car is May 25th.

I do have the previous carpet piece. I saved all the old interior. I thought I might be able to sell some of it. The racetracks on the doors alone are expensive.

God bless!

Ted

[Ted F.]

Re: 1967 Kick Panels and Kick Panel Trim

Harry,

Wow! That is some great information!

How would you fill in the holes, so the correct screws would work?

God bless!

Ted

[Harry S.]

Re: 1967 Kick Panels and Kick Panel Trim

Harry,

Wow! That is some great information!

How would you fill in the holes, so the correct screws would work?

God bless!

Ted

When the trim was installed on the line, the screws were installed in the existing fiberglass. It was just forced in as I recall. If it were me, I'd mix some resin with more hardener than needed so it sets up quickly and doesn't run. Then a second coat if needed, I would drill a small pilot hole then screw the piece in. I've done this on a door panel where the hole got too big.

[Ted F.]

Re: 1967 Kick Panels and Kick Panel Trim

Harry,

Thank you!

Thank is what I will do!

God bless!

Ted

[Leif A.]

Re: 1967 Kick Panels and Kick Panel Trim

Ted,
Quickest and easiest way to remedy your issue is to use what's pictured below. In an enlarged hole in fiberglass that will be hidden from view when covered, it's kind of a no brainer.

[Tom E.]

[Ted F.]

Re: 1967 Kick Panels and Kick Panel Trim

Leif,

I agree, but since I have time I would rather keep it as stock as possible. It is one of my babies, That said I did add a RediRad to the rebuilt radio so I can plug in my cell phone for directions and music. That can be removed quickly if needed. By the way it is the 2nd time the radio was rebuilt. I rebuilt it the 1st time in 1985.

God bless!

Ted

[Richard M.]

Re: 1967 Kick Panels and Kick Panel Trim

The following photos depict a Early(Blue Int) and a Mid(Black Int) '67, Both St Louis builds.

Nov Built Blue '67: These were original backing pieces that I repaired and had their original screw holes and integrated washer screws. Note the metal trim upper screw hole position.
P3290014.jpgP3290017.jpgP3290018.jpgP3290019.jpgP3290024.jpgP3290028.jpg

Also note that the screws just below the air vent are often in the same position as the lower hole for attaching the vent itself. This can vary as I have seen the Phiilips flat head screw attaching that lower vent position with a new hole for the kick panel, as well as the kick panel screw used in place of the lower vent screw.
67KickPanel_NovBuild.jpg

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March Built Black '67: These were also original backing pieces that I repaired and had their original screw holes and integrated washer screws.
P9180026.jpgP9180023.jpgP9180022.jpgP9180019.jpgP9180018.jpgP9180021.jpgP5030074.jpg

Lower Vent screw locations. Note new hole in one and altered hole on the other, both for the kick panel forward screws.
P7290021.jpgP7290019.jpgP7290033.jpg

View showing center rearward vent side screw and new hole for kick panel screw.
P7290024.jpg

As a side note, The center forward vent side screw access and removal of the screw is nearly impossible when the heater box is installed. You may be able to reach the screw but the head will hit the side of the heater box so it won't come out all the way.

If and when you have the heater box removed, remember to remove that vent screw. Cut the screw down to about 1/4" or less in length and replace it for easy removal in the future. Or just leave it out as the 3 other screws will hold the vent just fine.

The screw seen in this view is the top vent screw. You cannot see the center screw in these photos.
P7280044.jpg


P7280046.jpg

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Rich