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Re: New U-joints Stiffness???
They shouldn't flop around -- moderately stiff pressure but very smooth movement when installed. You should be able to swing the yoke with your hand but it certainly isn't a one finger effort. -
Re: New U-joints Stiffness???
They definitely do not flop like the old ones did before they were removed. The new ones I installed are real stiff but smooth.
QUOTE=Owen Lowe (20119);892809]They shouldn't flop around -- moderately stiff pressure but very smooth movement when installed. You should be able to swing the yoke with your hand but it certainly isn't a one finger effort.[/QUOTE]Comment
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Re: New U-joints Stiffness???
It's probably OK as is. Hard to tell with words over the internet. It should loosen up a bit in use and the installed angles are relatively straight, so swinging it side to side is not something that is needed in the car.Comment
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Re: New U-joints Stiffness???
If old NOS u-joints are pulled out of storage, should the the lube be repacked before installation? Dried grease could add to the stiffness feel.Comment
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Re: New U-joints Stiffness???
James:
My personal test after new u-joint install was to position the joint and yoke vertically, and then see if it would fall to horizontal by itself.......or with a little movement of the driveshaft/half-shaft....or very gentle persuasion. If it did, I was okay with the install. If not, then I needed to re-adjust or improve somehow.
It sounds like you may have too thick an end clip (retaining clip) on the u-joints. Check around and buy a thinner clip, and likely all will be well. Joe Lucia once recommended using a soft "dead'blow" hammer and hitting the joints a few times (pretty hard) to better seat the new joints and bearings. Many driveline shops still do this. It does work..........as I can personally attest. It has certainly worked for me. Try it
If the half-shaft flange end is still too tight, the flange is likely still bent by a few thousands of an inch.........creating friction on the joint. You can possibly check this by bolting the flange joint to a second joint or the thick, steel installation block I mentioned before (available Volunteer Vette and other places). If the joint booths out, you have your answer. Then you can accept this off-set, knowing it should get better when installed, or deal with the old flange.
Try my suggestions of the hammer and thinner clips. That should solve your problem.
LarryComment
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Re: New U-joints Stiffness???
As Larry mentions, I always sandwich the joint in between 2x4's and give them a hard wack with a ball peen to seat them, works like a charm.Comment
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Re: New U-joints Stiffness???
I removed the clips a gave the u-joint caps at the opposite plane a few light taps with a small block of wood and a hammer to better center the u-joints in the yokes. They freed right up. I must have pushed the caps into the yokes a little too far when I installed them. Ready to begin reassembly.
Thanks to everyone who responded.
JamesComment
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Re: New U-joints Stiffness???
Nice looking job James hope mine comes out as good
regards BobComment
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Re: New U-joints Stiffness???
Thanks Bob.
I restored my half shafts, drive shaft, strut rods, exhaust hangers, and rear spring leaves by soaking them in Evapo-Rust rust remover solution in a large plastic container, approximately 35-3/8" x 16-7/8" x 5-3/4" (41 quarts) I bought at Walmart. I bought a 5 gallon bucket of Evapo-Rust through Home Depot which was the cheapest. Every 12 hours I scrubbed the half shafts and drive shaft with a medium Scotchbrite pad and I used a small wire brush on the yokes until they were free of rust. I then rinsed them in hot water, towel dried them and immediately dried in an oven at 170 degrees for a few hours. I then coated them with Resto-Guard Dry metal protectant that I purchased from Quanta. Not sure how long the protectant will last, but this car will be driven to the NCRS events I attend so we'll see. They look natural, not like the ones you see that have been polished or turned in a lathe.
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