C2 bulkhead connector intermittent failure

[John P.]

Despite replacing the engine harness on my 1965 convertible, I still have connection issues with the bulkhead connector. It looks like Ill have to replace the
connector, due to a broken retaining tab . I suppose I will be spending quality time on the floorboard under the dash.

Is there a specific tool for easily removing the pins? It appears that the dash harness and wires are in very good condition- I hope to be able to reuse them.

Thanks as always.

[Thomas S.]

[Frank D.]

Re: C2 bulkhead connector intermittent failure

OK - first off the DeOxIt electrical connector spray is the most effective method of dealing with oxidation/corrosion with the CRC electrical contact cleaner a close second.

https://www.amazon.com/DeoxIT-D5S-6-...dDbGljaz10cnVl

Unfortunately, if a housing tab is broken even clean terminals may not make reliable connections.

Next, a Corvette Forum member designed a clever plate to go over the bulkhead connector housing that screws on and provides new tabs and secures the connectors in spite of a broken tab (or two) on the original part as a workaround, I can't immediately find the post but maybe someone else can. I'm a "persona non grata" over there anyway.

Then there is the "mule-hauling", "correct" approach of replacing the plastic housing using the Lectric Limited repair kit. They don't recommend it and its not for the faint of heart (I'm a journeyman avionics tech so it was no big deal for me). The kit is NOT returnable !

Having said that this document describes my approach on my split window and the tool to release the pins (another one of Dave Zuberer's amazing PDF creations) If you should destroy a pin during the process PM me and I can walk you through replacing it from one of the spares in the kit -better to be extra careful though as the pins are crimped on from the factory in a specific fashion.

https://www.jpcycles.com/product/381-087/j-p-cycles-electrical-pin-removal-tool

When done use this marine-grade electrical contact protection grease liberally applied inside the connector housings - I wouldn't use dielectric grease personally:

https://www.nocorrosion.com/collections/corrosion-block-grease/products/corrosion-block-16oz-grease-tub

[Owen L.]

Re: C2 bulkhead connector intermittent failure

OK - first off the DeOxIt electrical connector spray is the most effective method of dealing with oxidation/corrosion with the CRC electrical contact cleaner a close second.
<snip>
When done use this marine-grade electrical contact protection grease liberally applied inside the connector housings - I wouldn't use dielectric grease personally:
https://www.nocorrosion.com/collecti...6oz-grease-tub

Hello Frank,
Looking at the Corrosion Block products (by Lear Chemicals) on Amazon I see a spray on CB. Do you have any experience with that and is it just Lear's version of De-OxIt? I've used De-Ox-It on my fuse blocks and it says it leaves a coating of protection behind.

I've read the comments about using di-electric grease before but am not sure why folks warn against it. How is the Corrosion Block grease functionally different?

[Frank D.]

Re: C2 bulkhead connector intermittent failure

Well - I really didn't want to get in the chemicals debate but my take is that DeOxIt is a cleaner, de-oxidizing product and may leave a protective coating on the terminals that will last for some period - but I'd say its protection is transitory. The "Corrosion Block" 'grease' is, in this application, a heaver bodied solution intended to keep outside mositure and contaminents out, while not impacting electrical connectivity, and so the spray is not good for this I wouldn't think. Di-electric is typically used in places like spark plug boots, etc.. to inhibit arcing and therefore I assume its a non-conductor of some amount - instructions for spark plug wire installation also explicitly say to keep the stuff off the metal plug contacts. So having it floating arouond in sensitive contact areas like the Delphi-Packard twin connectors is not optimal.

What I described in my prior post worked for the 5 years since I did it if that's an indicator; I've read many posts where dielectric grease is fine for such things as the bulkhead connectors - so be it.

I'm sure there are many here that can wax eloquent about the products mentioned above and their merits and downsides; I'll defer to them.

[Thomas S.]

Re: C2 bulkhead connector intermittent failure

A dielectric material does not conduct electricity. Dielectric grease is non-conductive and should not be used nor should any type of conductive grease since it would introduce the potential for leakage between separated connections. I wouldn't get crazy over this and I would keep it simple. Like Frank, I have a electrical/electronic background. There are all kind of products out there to get rid of corrosion. The corrosion "oxidation" occurs because of moisture. The WD in WD40 stands for water-depletion which is what it does. When it dries it leaves a film that protects against moisture. It is not a lubricant per say.

If you have an intermittent circuits is likely due to oxidation between the 2 contact surfaces, or a gap between them. The connectors use a alloy with spring characteristics and under normal conditions they will last for a very long time. Again moisture is the key gremlin here.

As far as that block is concerned, you might want to pick up an old harness and simply transfer the connections from the bad one to the new one. while it might seem difficult, you are basically removing one contact at a time from the old block and inserting it into the replacement block in the exact same spot. The blocks are labeled. you can also take picture with your phone as extra insurance. When the contact is out, it will be very easy to clean. when you are finished, you can spray it with WD40 which will quickly dry and you'll be good for good.

[Alan D.]

Re: C2 bulkhead connector intermittent failure

Ditto on above, especially dielectric.
Better to use the old contacts, ie remove one at a time and put back. Assuming they are not corroded.

I have had trouble with the new repro connectors, sometimes good connections sometimes not. Expect the newer stuff is made of a cheaper material with less force so connections are only fair. Good luck with it.