�67 Driver�s Window VERY hard to Crank Down; Cranks up Smoothly?
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fuzzy-stiff" and that's what appears to be causing the hard cranking, then it looks like all the guts will have to come out... Even if it's only a fuzzy issue, there's no sense in going that far and not changing out that 55-year old coil spring.
If it's not "fuzzy-stiff" (meaning the probably culprit is the spring and/or regulator), with the sash off the upper lift channel can you get the regulator assembly out of the door cavity thru the inside access opening?
Thanks much for all the help - and Sorry for all the questions, but I really don't want to break anything - or remove stuff unnecessarily. If I were restoring the car, that would be another story...
I love mid-year coupes, but for the first time I'm thinking this job would be a heck of a lot easier on a ragtop
thx,
Mark- Top
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Vent assy Removal.
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Fig 33
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Window Removal. Note it states to remove vent assy first.
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Removing regulator through access hole
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Gary,...That rear channel is secured at the top and bottom by two large Phillips head screws that pass thru the door jam. How exactly can the rear be adjusted in or out? That lower Phillips head screw has to go thru a round hole in the door jam and it has to screw into the threaded hole in the bottom of the metal challenge that the rear vertical run attaches to. There is no inboard or outboard adjustability as far as I know to that lower Phillips screw. Can you clarify? Gary
I did not take the lower Phillips head screw all the way out - however, as soon as I loosened it, it seemed to move easily in the direction I wanted it to. Reach your hand in and grab the lower channel bracket - and push (slide?) it outboard (toward the outer door skin) or inboard (toward the Interior)...
So, even though I didn't see it (no need to fully remove it) - it's apparently not a round hole - it's a horizontal slot.
And now that I know what I was looking at when I was inside, if you're brave enough
, I'll bet you can make that rear adjustment with all your interior trim in place...loosen the lower Phillips - gently tap it outboard or inboard as necessary?? dunno?
The top channel attachments (front and rear) are not adjustable outboard or inboard...
hope that helps...thx,
Mark- Top
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Hi James,
I have not gotten to the point where I could see if my coli spring was broken or not...and I'm certainly new to this problem, so I'm no expert.
Does your outer window rubber seal touch the outside of the glass, or is there a gap (mine had a gap)?
I suppose if the rubber is jammed up too close to the glass, that could also be a problem...
If so (either way?), perhaps adjusting the lower channels outboard or inboard as needed might help with your problem?
I don't know - just a suggestion...maybe others will chime in on your problem, too...
Good luck!thx,
Mark- Top
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Gary,
I did not take the lower Phillips head screw all the way out - however, as soon as I loosened it, it seemed to move easily in the direction I wanted it to. Reach your hand in and grab the lower channel bracket - and push (slide?) it outboard (toward the outer door skin) or inboard (toward the Interior)...
So, even though I didn't see it (no need to fully remove it) - it's apparently not a round hole - it's a horizontal slot.
And now that I know what I was looking at when I was inside, if you're brave enough
, I'll bet you can make that rear adjustment with all your interior trim in place...loosen the lower Phillips - gently tap it outboard or inboard as necessary?? dunno?
The top channel attachments (front and rear) are not adjustable outboard or inboard...
hope that helps...- Top
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