63 FI stalls under load

[G B.]

Re: PCV restriction

Jerry,

When I bought the car it was equipped with a vent tube crankcase vent which I replaced with the PCV setup. This might be my problem, there seems to be quite a bit of flow through the PCV valve. How do I install the .090 restriction in the hose. Is this something I make or something that I buy.

Ed

Ed -

You can certainly make a restriction at home out of a short, 1/2" diameter, wooden or plastic rod to go inside the hose.

I had some restrictions made in aluminum that press-fit into the repro 590 valves sold by Paragon.

However, I really doubt there is only one factor causing your low power and over-rich mixture problem. You could fix your car much quicker if you hired some highly-experienced help. I suggest getting your unit and distributor to someone with an instrumented FI test car such Ken Hansen in Medina, Tennessee. His phone number is (731) 783-0815. You may find closer FI repairmen who own instrumented test cars if you ask around.

I'm sure most NCRS members could do their own dentistry by trial-and-error and asking questions on the Teeth Restoration Club Forum, but I'm not one of them. Anyway, I'd much rather be out driving around.

MVC-026S.jpg

[Edward G.]

Re: PCV restriction

Jerry,

Thank you and point well taken.

Ed

[Matthew T.]

Re: I just dunno

"A man's got to know his limitations".

I believe that was said by Dirty Harry.

100% correct

[Robert S.]

Re: 63 FI stalls under load

My 60 FI car did this once, no power and very jittery acceleration, basically undriveable, and I found out that the coil wires were reversed.

[Edward G.]

Re: 63 FI stalls under load

Robert
Sometimes the hardest problems have the simplest fixes, I hope my fix will be simple.
I need to be careful not to work too many fixes at one time, if the problem goes away I won't know what I did that fixed the problem.
I am posting this problem on the forum for 2 reasons
1) to get advice
2) to help the next person that might have the same problem.

Ed

[Duke W.]

Re: 63 FI stalls under load

Duke,

This is my first time posting pictures, Hope it takes.
My VAC is a 236, I don't know where the B28 number is. I have it Plumbed to the port on the air meter. When I bought the car it was plumbed to the air box. I moved it back to the air box/manifold and it did not make a difference. The VAC is not the same one that came with the car when I drove and it worked ok at that time. This one has a 16 stamping on it maybe that could be my problem.

Ed

The 236 16 is the 64-'65 VAC use on 365/375 HP engines and the 375 HP FI engine got full time vacuum advance, which came from the port on the side of the plenum that was the PCV inlet to the manifold on the '63 FI system. The B28 is the current SMP-manufactured replacement for the OE 236 16 that has the same nominal specs, start @ 4", 16 crank degrees @ 8". Test your's with a vacuum pump to see if it meets spec. Some of your comment indicate that it may be dead. On original GM VACs the first three digits are the last three of the seven digit full part number and the last two digits are maximum crank degrees advance.

Original '63 FI systems took the vacuum signal from the air meter above the throttle plate at idle (ported vacuum advance). It sounds like yours was converted to full time from ported and then you converted it back to ported. I recommend you convert it back to full time. Then tee a vacuum gage into the VAC signal hose and report idle vacuum at xx" HG @ xxx RPM. Idle speed MUST ALWAYS accompany idle vacuum measurements because vacuum changes with different idle speeds.

Set idled speed at AT LEAST 800, try different different idle mixture screw settings, and practice getting the car going from a dead stop with minimum clutch slippage understanding that with a 3.08 axle and CR transmission it's like starting out in second gear it a typical manual transmission car.

Duke

[Edward G.]

Re: 63 FI stalls under load

Duke,

Maybe you ca answer this I hope.

I took off my timing chain cover to check the alignment of the timing gears. First I set the crank to TDC with the rotor pointing to the #1 plug terminal then I removed the timing chain cover and the crank gear dimple was at 12 o'clock and the cam gear was at 12 o'clock. When I rotate the crank so the timing marks are facing each other, cam gear at 6 and crank gear at 12, then #1 cylinder is on the exhaust stroke and the distributor rotor is pointing to the #6 cylinder. This goes to the lack of power issue. Remember that the motor starts good idles good and revs good. Looking at the shop manual I see that the locating pin on the cam gear is on the drivers side and my locating pin is on the passenger side.
So if the cam gear is 180 out and the distributor is installed 180 out which cancels out the out of phase issue. Your thoughts on this.

[Edward G.]

Re: 63 FI stalls under load

Car is finally running as it should. Here are the results of my work.
Bottom line is after giving it a try and you seem to be spinning your wheels, take it to someone that knows what they are doing and has the tools to do the work.
After playing with the fuel injection unit for 3 months I decided to take it to Ken Hanson in Medina TN to go over the unit with a trained eye.


What they did:
Resurfaced fuel bowl mounting surfaces (they are prone to warping)
Balanced axle link
Adjusted float to remove excess side play (Who would have though)
Tested high pressure pump (it was good)
Checked nozzles, one was upside down. (That is my fault)
Cleaned and inspected nozzles
Installed new main diaphragm (ok, so how pliable is pliable)
Repaired choke operation and installed slotted butterfly (the choke piston looked ok to me)
installed unit on test car and calibrated unit
My spill valve and Cranking signal valve were good and did not need replacing (but according to John you need to carry a spare CSV)
They also installed a fuel shutoff solenoid for safety although my check valve was operating freely (for now)

The biggest problem I see for DIYers are the adjusting screws for the economy and power settings . They are almost impossible to adjust while the engine is running. There is no room to get the allen wrench in the screws , you will need to make a special tool that can be flexible enough so you can turn it back and forth while the engine is running. Also the unit is very sensitive to vacuum leaks.

I would like to thank John DeGregory and Jerry Bramlett for their time and help.