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Odd starter issue

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  • Michael G.
    Extremely Frequent Poster
    • November 12, 2008
    • 2155

    Odd starter issue

    A few weeks a go I noted here that my black ‘65 was making a loud “clank” occasionally when I tried to start the car. The starter teeth were fine and the flywheel teeth were slightly damaged but all still intact. I decide to have the dated starter rebuilt and switched it with a re-built one temporarily.

    I installed the temporary starter and it cranked just fine, but the car wouldn’t start (it always, without fail, starts quickly). I checked the spark during cranking and there was none. After scratching my head for a while I decided that since I had just had the the black/purple wire from the starter to the coil disconnected, perhaps it was loose, or something. I tested it and it was tight and the wire conducted current. So, just to be sure, I took off all the wires from the solenoid and reinstalled them.

    The car started, easily on the first crank (its a fuelie, so that’s not really expected). Now I’m wondering if all along I’ve been getting reduced current from the battery on an intermittent basis, causing the original “clank” and now the lack of juice to the plugs.

    I cleaned the starter bolts when I had them off, but I’m wondering if my ground isn’t sufficient. Maybe a bad battery cable? I’m not an electrical engineer so any ideas would be welcome.

    Thanks,
  • Bill B.
    Very Frequent User
    • August 1, 2016
    • 303

    #2
    Re: Odd starter issue

    Mike,

    As a retired EE, yes, there is suspect of an intermittent connection somewhere, either on the positive Batt terminal connection (at the battery), or somewhere along the multiple ground connections (Batt to Cable, cable to frame, frame to engine, starter to block). When the key is turned to START position, the solenoid atop the starter pulls in (approx. 40 Amps) to make the Batt to Starter motor connection. When the starter is engaged and turning, the current draw from the battery circuit (positive and negative) is approx. 10X (400 amps) the initial solenoid draw. That's a lot of current and leave very little tolerance for a weak connection anywhere in the circuit.

    I had a similar starting experience with a rotary type of battery disconnect on the negative terminal of my battery. I have since replaced it with the "knife" type and haven't had an issue since. Upon teardown troubleshooting my rotary disconnect, I found the mating contacts of the disconnect significantly burned and pitted.

    I suspect that I may have disconnected the battery for brief storage by rotating as usual, but the battery cable tension provided a loose contact (even though it was rotated to off a couple of turns), and when I went back to start the car a week later, the door light came on, so I thought I must have just forgot to disconnect and proceeded to start the car. It was a weak start, but it did turn over. Suspect similar occurred sometime later a second time, figured out the problem cause, to which I removed the device and replaced with a knife style, which has been problem free ever since.

    Bottom line, all of those connections need to be clean and tight, especially those later model side terminal type of positive cable to the battery that has the molded red plastic terminal and sealing seat. Sometimes previous overtorquing "squishes" the raised projections of the cable terminal that needs to have good contact with the battery's recessed side terminal.

    Hope this helps.
    Bill Bertelli
    Northeast and Carolinas Chapters Member
    '70 Resto Mod LT-1 w/ partial '70 ZR-1 drivetrain

    Comment

    • Alan D.
      Extremely Frequent Poster
      • January 1, 2005
      • 2027

      #3

      Comment

      • Michael G.
        Extremely Frequent Poster
        • November 12, 2008
        • 2155

        #4

        Comment

        • Timothy B.
          Extremely Frequent Poster
          • April 30, 1983
          • 5177

          #5
          Re: Odd starter issue

          Mike,
          There are two places I would look and that's the wire from the ignition switch that sends voltage to the solenoid, I think there is a pigtail around the wiper motor where that wire from the ignition switch plugs into the engine harness but check your wiring schematic.

          The next place is the contact ring inside the solenoid, they get burnt from use and develop resistance. When the solenoid gets powered and pulls in, the battery post touches the contact plate and transmits current to the starter post plus transmits current (12V) to the pink coil + wire for starting.

          I also agree with everyone above but it seems the problem may be isolated to the old starter. Starters are easy to overhaul, give it a try.

          Comment

          • Michael G.
            Extremely Frequent Poster
            • November 12, 2008
            • 2155

            #6

            Comment

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