1964 clutch problem continues
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Re: 1964 clutch problem continues
Jack, I hope you are using 2-3 inch long bolts with the heads cut off as guides for sliding the trans back while keeping it in alignment. Just insert the cut bolts in place of the trans bolts and slide trans back. The trans will stay in alignment for the pilot bearing when you slide the trans into place.
If all 3 arms are identical and the throwout bearing still interferes with the arm then I still think you need to take the bellhousing out and verify as I suggested earlier. Could it be possible the bellhousing is not correct for this application???? with the pivot ball location different. Are there any scrape marks on the side of the trans input housing tube?????- Top
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Re: 1964 clutch problem continues
I was informed that no matter how you insert the throw out bearing into the fork, lobe inboard or outboard, the lobe in conjunction with the spring, prevents rotation of the entire throw out bearing assembly. Jack J.- Top
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Re: 1964 clutch problem continues
(1) If the ball pivot point wasn't correctly centered in the fork socket, that's why the bearings got damaged. It simply wasn't centered on the fork fingers.
(2) In this photo you posted, if the bearing looks like what you have pictured in both examples below, you'll be doing this all over again. You can see they're not centered.
9F2AF448-ED20-4E09-9C58-AEFFC253A695.jpg
I'm in total agreement with Stephen. Now is the time to remove the bell housing and set it on the floor. Install the fork/bearing assy in it, properly snapped over the pivot ball.
Slide the trans on and install the top 4 bolts. The bearing should now be centered over the fork tabs with no interference to the inner fork flange. Move the fork assy in and out over the trans input shaft housing and ensure it's still centered.
If the bearing flange does interfere with the fork, it means the socket isn't properly centered over the pivot ball.
I suspect this was your original problem, two times.
You were misinformed.- Top
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Re: 1964 clutch problem continues
maybe I missed this in the string, but when you have the bellhousing off, hopefully you are also planning on replacing the:
- Pressure plate
- Clutch Plate
- Pilot bearing
and if the flywheel is scored - have it resurfaced (hopefully, that's not the case though)
thx,
Mark- Top
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Re: 1964 clutch problem continues
I have done 5 or 6 clutch/PP replacement jobs in my time including my '67 - and all without the benefit of a lift.
My Dad taught me at a very early age (even when money was not abundant) - never be tempted not to do those 3 item replacements if you gone all the way to get that far ! His advice was spot-on and I never want to do another one..
Your case is unique and an exception to that rule - Good luck...thx,
Mark- Top
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Re: 1964 clutch problem continues
I believe (but am not certain) that this configuration is part of the "self-centering" feature of modern clutch release bearings. I've never really liked it, though. However, I don't know if you can get a bearing these days without it. Even the current GM bearings have itIn Appreciation of John Hinckley- Top
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