'71 LT1 Transistor Ignition Power Module Amp Removal - HELP!

[Ray K.]

Looking for any / all help in the removal of my '71 LT1's TI power amp module. Mine is located in what previous threads identify as the "braille" location (can't be seen, located in the farthest outboard position). I've searched for its removal in the service manual and previous threads and couldn't find any info. Can anyone offer up an idea on how to remove it (ex: removal of LH grille/parking lamp assembly? Or?)

Thanks.
Ray K (#43777)

[Donn M.]

Re: '71 LT1 Transistor Ignition Power Module Amp Removal - HELP!

Disconnect the hood hinge to open further, then prop it well. Module is on driver side, inside front of fender, above wheel well. Attached with nuts to mounted studs. It's tight, but what isn't on a C3 ?
Make sure hood is really secure. You do not want it falling with your hands in there.
You are you replacing the amp module ?

[Ray K.]

[Donn M.]

Re: '71 LT1 Transistor Ignition Power Module Amp Removal - HELP!

20221112_093030.jpg
Ray, Here is a pic. of my '70 LT1 TI amp. which is accessible but, may be different than '71. I was incorrect on one thing. It is attached with 3 bolt/screws to stationary nuts. I also replaced it with inner circuit board which was big improvement.
Good luck, Donn

[Ray K.]

[Bill B.]

Re: '71 LT1 Transistor Ignition Power Module Amp Removal - HELP!

Ray,

I installed mine (late 1970 model) when I had my headlamp "bucket assemblies" and the front bumper bracket out of the car. Easier access. Attached is a pic of going under the front of my car. (taken laying on my back under the front bumper looking up towards the left fender - you can see the left front tire in the right bottom of the pic) You can see the TI Amp off in the center distance above the bumper brace. If you have patience and small hands, you MIGHT be able to get to it from underneath without having to remove headlamp/bumper brace ... If you had a helper to get to the nuts in the front tire wheel well, it might go better.

If one were brave enough to remove that headlight bucket assy, it would make things a tad easier to get to R&R the amplifier unit, but ... I recall the pain in getting the headlamp doors to align flush with the nose surface at all 4 corners.

IF you manage to get it out without headlamp/brace removal, for re-installation, I would pre-glue the 3 bolts to the TI amp housing so you can gently align the three bolts into the wheel well holes, otherwise you are working in the blind, guessing where the TI housing and fender well holes are. (don't forget that important black ground wire between the bolt head and the amp housing! Maybe don't pre-glue that one, as you can see it and get to it relatively easy - besides, adhesives aren't good electrical conductors )

You may have to pick your poison unless someone on this Tech forum has a better way.

TI Amp.jpg

[Bill B.]

Re: '71 LT1 Transistor Ignition Power Module Amp Removal - HELP!

Ray,

Another idea ... Do you have the two bolts to the right of the three TI Amp ones as shown in this pic?

Wheel Well.jpg

If so, there is a bracket on the other side of the wheel well that these two fasteners are for. That bracket has one more vertical bolt attaching it to the nose inside. Remove that bracket, and you should be able to get to all three TI housing bolts easier. Here is a pic of that bracket taken from the hood/fender interface:

Bracket.jpg

This pic is rotated 90 degrees to the left, (so tilt your head to the left to see) but those two captive nuts on the bracket are the two bolts in the wheel well. Look carefully above the two nuts and you will see that third fastener that must be removed in order to remove that bracket and gain easier access to the Amp.

Hope this helps.

[Gary C.]

Re: '71 LT1 Transistor Ignition Power Module Amp Removal - HELP!

This picture of the amplifier looking thru the valence cutout is the direction of reaching/installing I use for installing the amplifier in the outboard location without disassembly of anything. Put a single bolt in the top hole of the amplifier, place my index finger on the bolt to hold in place, then move the amplifier with your arm reaching thru this opening until you find the top hole. Then put the washer/nut on wheel well side on that bolt but leave loose so the amplifier can be rotated around this bolt. No need to have all three bolts installed when striving to find the holes. Next, put the bolt with ground lead on the inboard lower hole, rotate the amplifier around to find the 2nd hole, not too difficult since you pivot around the top bolt. Then install the lower outboard bolt into the last hole, this one is easier since the other two bolts are already installed and lines up the amplifier. I have done this with the car on the ground while lying on the ground reaching up thru the valence cutout and have done it with a two post lift (much easier for this fat body of mine).

[Ray K.]

Re: '71 LT1 Transistor Ignition Power Module Amp Removal - HELP!

Donn, Bill & Gary,
Really appreciate your input on the removal of my LT1s amplifier. When I get back to the shop on Tuesday, I'll try what seems to be the easier solution (Gary's, thru the valence cut-out), first. If that doesn't seem to work form me, I'll try Bill's (remove the front bumper bracket).
Do you think another solution would be to remove the LH grille/turn signal lamp assembly would be of any benefit?
Ray

[Ray K.]

Re: '71 LT1 Transistor Ignition Power Module Amp Removal - HELP!

Want to let everyone know that I was successful in the removal of my LT1s TI power module amp.
With mine being in the furtherest outboard "braille" position, I had to remove the LH front grille/turn signal lamp. After its removal, I literally had to twist, turn & stretch my hand and arm to reach the 3 fasteners. It took me about an hour or so to remove and walk away with scratches and bruises on my arm and hand. With that all being said it wasn't the easiest thing to do, but in the long run, I'm sure the newer water type silicone board will pay off in the long run.
Thanks again for everyone's help.
Ray K (43777)