Master cylinder rust

[Anthony C.]

[Duke W.]

Re: Master cylinder rust

When you say "bleed the brakes" did you do do a complete system flush by running at least a quart of brake fluid through the system?

A complete flush will remove all the old moisture contaminated fluid, and if done every few years will likely prevent having to rebuild hydraulic components for decades. If you can't see the bottom of the m/c because the fluid is the color of day old coffee, the system needs a flush and here's how you do it.

1. Siphon or suction as much of the old fluid out of the m/c as you can.

2. Inspect the bottom of the m/c for any sludge or debris and thoroughly clean out with fresh fluid and clean rags that have never been used to clean any petroleum products. Check that the tiny compensating port is open. If not ream with a piece of .015" or smaller wire.

3. Fill the m/c with fresh fluid and start bleeding at the LEFT FRONT, then go around two to three times with 6-12 pumps at each corner. Frequently check the m/c and fill as needed. If it goes dry air will get into the system and it will take a lot more bleeding to purge it.

Keep the m/c cover on during bleeding, but you don't have to secure the bail wire. This is because every time the pedal is pushed down there will be a thin geyser of fluid that squirts up. This can make a mess if the cover is not on and damage paint. Keep clean rags underneath the maser cylinder to catch any fluid that seeps out.

Since conventional polyglycol (DOT 3 and 4) brake fluid is water soluble the rags can be rinsed out in water and reused.

Duke

[Anthony C.]

Re: Master cylinder rust

Thanks duke i bleed everything and all is clear . Just the master has some rust at the bottom. Can I run the MC dry clean the rust and call it a day. Thanks

[Duke W.]

Re: Master cylinder rust

Thanks duke i bleed everything and all is clear . Just the master has some rust at the bottom. Can I run the MC dry clean the rust and call it a day. Thanks

You didn't state whether or not you did a complete system flush, as I explained in item #3 in my previous post. Without that and without inspecting how much "rust" is in bottom of the m/c and whether it is loose or still attached I can't give any further advice.

Also what year, disk or drum?

Duke