Shifter - rebuild or replace assembly?

[Keith M.]

Re: Shifter - rebuild or replace assembly?

I think the advise of removing the assembly before coming up with a gameplan is a good idea. Would have been nice if engineers could have found a way NOT to have a crossmember right below it. See attached pics for shifter in all her glory. I cannot for the life of me figure out how TF to get to that lower bolt attaching the shifter to the bracket. Help!!!??

Forgot pics first time posted...added now.

[Patrick H.]

Re: Shifter - rebuild or replace assembly?

You have to remove it all from below.
Bracket, shifter, etc.

It's a very tight removal.

[Keith M.]

Re: Shifter - rebuild or replace assembly?

Thanks Patrick. Tight is an understatement. Good news is I was pulling the exhaust anyway to simplify removal of the differential. I am fearful of what I think I have found. As best I can tell...the head of the lower bolt that holds the shifter assembly to the bracket had been sheared off. I can see the threads of the end of that bolt on passenger side. Zero evidence of the bolt head where it should be on driver side. Going to remove linkage connections to tranny and the bolts holding bracket to crossmember....should drop down at that point. Stay tuned. Multi-tasking this and replacing muffler on the Subaru. Gotta keep SWMBO happy (she who must be obeyed).

ETA - found the bolt head...gotta have shifter gears in a position for it to be exposed.
Keith

[Joe L.]

Re: Shifter - rebuild or replace assembly?

Thanks Patrick. Tight is an understatement. Good news is I was pulling the exhaust anyway to simplify removal of the differential. I am fearful of what I think I have found. As best I can tell...the head of the lower bolt that holds the shifter assembly to the bracket had been sheared off. I can see the threads of the end of that bolt on passenger side. Zero evidence of the bolt head where it should be on driver side. Going to remove linkage connections to tranny and the bolts holding bracket to crossmember....should drop down at that point. Stay tuned. Multi-tasking this and replacing muffler on the Subaru. Gotta keep SWMBO happy (she who must be obeyed).

ETA - found the bolt head...gotta have shifter gears in a position for it to be exposed.
Keith

[Richard K.]

Re: Shifter - rebuild or replace assembly?

Keith,
Years ago I had my shifter, M21, and 3:70 rear rebuilt by Hoss's Gear Shop, which is near Latrobe that's not far from you. He's been in business for a very long time. Doing a Google will get you his number, etc..
Once you pull the shifter, if you want a professional to look at it, he might be a good source.
Rich K.

[Thomas N.]

Re: Shifter - rebuild or replace assembly?

A little suggestion. The Bracket that houses the shifter expands and stretches due to aggressive shifting and over time, and can contribute to the shifter locking up. Put the bracket with the shifter inside of it in a vise and squeeze it back into place, to take out the slop from stretching. I've bought shifters cheap and did this to them and it tightened them back up. You might want to look at that first. Of course you need to remove the shifter to do this.

[Keith M.]

Re: Shifter - rebuild or replace assembly?

Ok..got the focker out. Haven't pulled it apart yet but I do not see any glaring issues other than needing a weekend at Camp Evaporust...but hoping more experienced eyes can weigh in.

There does appear to be what I would call a threaded stop limiter on one side that may be worn down if I am interpreting that right.

As best I can tell the blade on end of shifter looks ok.

Wiggling the linkages to the things they connect to in the shifter does not appear to show much play.

The "rebuild" kits I have seen do not really include wear items other than providing a couple shims so probably won't go that route. So I guess it is either a) disassemble, clean up and reassemble, or b) just buy a new assembly. Still kind of torn but leaning toward door #1. Wanna get it right because I am NOT taking this thing out again.

Rich, thanks for the tip about Hoss. May have him take a peek.

[Mike T.]

Re: Shifter - rebuild or replace assembly?

Keith - once you 'de-gunk' the shifter, we'll get to see what sorta wear there is where the rods connect to the shifter levers. Unlike Hurst shifters, the factory Muncie doesn't use replaceable bushings, other than the plastic ones in the chrome shift handle for the Reverse Lockout mechanism. So, any wear should show itself once you get it cleaned and apart. By the way, when you pulled it down, did you notice any loose areas such as the two bolts holding the shifter body to the frame mount or where the shift rods connect to the trans levers?
One other thing, when you pull those retention clips off, if any of them have been bent or have lost their springiness, time to replace them.

[Keith M.]

Re: Shifter - rebuild or replace assembly?

Keith - once you 'de-gunk' the shifter, we'll get to see what sorta wear there is where the rods connect to the shifter levers. Unlike Hurst shifters, the factory Muncie doesn't use replaceable bushings, other than the plastic ones in the chrome shift handle. So, any wear should show itself once you get it cleaned and apart. By the way, when you pulled it down, did you notice any loose areas such as the two bolts holding the shifter body to the frame mount or where the shift rods connect to the trans levers?

Negative on loose areas. shift rods seemed snug at both ends...shifter to bracket bolts seemed tight.

[Mike T.]

Re: Shifter - rebuild or replace assembly?

So far that sounds good. What about the actual shifter handle? If you can clamp the lower squared section in a vise (with some sort of protection so the jaws don't mark it up), see if the upper round section is loose where it clamps to that lower section.

[Joe L.]

Re: Shifter - rebuild or replace assembly?

Ok..got the focker out. Haven't pulled it apart yet but I do not see any glaring issues other than needing a weekend at Camp Evaporust...but hoping more experienced eyes can weigh in.

There does appear to be what I would call a threaded stop limiter on one side that may be worn down if I am interpreting that right.

As best I can tell the blade on end of shifter looks ok.

Wiggling the linkages to the things they connect to in the shifter does not appear to show much play.

The "rebuild" kits I have seen do not really include wear items other than providing a couple shims so probably won't go that route. So I guess it is either a) disassemble, clean up and reassemble, or b) just buy a new assembly. Still kind of torn but leaning toward door #1. Wanna get it right because I am NOT taking this thing out again.

Rich, thanks for the tip about Hoss. May have him take a peek.

Keith------


The welded-in pin is fine.

I can't see enough of the shifter handle "blade" to give an opinion on.

[Chris H.]

Re: Shifter - rebuild or replace assembly?

Keith, yes as others have mentioned clean everything and completely disassemble to see what you have. I used the wire wheel on my bench grinder and everything cleaned up pretty well. I wound up not replacing anything, just re-greasesd and reassembled. Worn shifter forks / cams/ springs inside the tranny can also contribute to a feeling of looseness.

[Chris H.]

Re: Shifter - rebuild or replace assembly?

Some photos.

[Chris H.]

Re: Shifter - rebuild or replace assembly?

New Auto Gear side cover, beefier than original Muncie, with new shaft seals and springs, cams. Easy swap while shifter is out.

[Keith M.]

Re: Shifter - rebuild or replace assembly?

Some photos.

Thanks for the pics. Curious what you used for grease? I am thinking like maybe a lithium grease? And imagine we just want to go lightly with it on all parts that move against each other...ie. a bit within the shifter plates, linkage connections etc. Yours cleaned up nicely.

Interesting that yours started as all greased out and mine is rust bucket. Evaporust gonna go to town on mine. Anyone wondering about Evaporust utility or effectiveness...stay tuned.