So these guys have been together almost 54 years and don't seem to want to separate. I have given a few judicious whacks with a hammer but no cooperation. Any thoughts or tips on how these come apart??
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late Oct 1969 L46 350/350, M21 4spd, 3.70 posi convertible --As with life, restoration is a journey, not a destination. Though restored cars provide both journeys AND destinations! -
Re: Trailing Arm Disassembly -last step
Keith, you will likely need a press to press out the studs, which means new studs, if you have a machine shop somewhere close try asking them.New England chapter member, 63 Convert. 327/340- Chapter/Regional/national Top Flight, 72 coupe- chapter and regional Top Flight. -
Re: Trailing Arm Disassembly -last step
Keith------
Did you pound on the studs? To separate the brake flange and bearing support, you need to pound on the rear of the brake flange and bearing support. The studs do not have to be removed unless they are damaged in some way and require replacement.In Appreciation of John HinckleyComment
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Re: Trailing Arm Disassembly -last step
Keith, at least one stud looks bent. Cut it off. Pry between the brake flange and the TA with big pry bar. Work around the brake flange. You can also
hammer easy on the TA side of the brake flange while prying on it. Some times you can put the nut back on the studs and put a socket on the stud and hammer away. Studs are easy to get and replace so treat them expendable. Maybe squirt some of those miracle loosening agents on the whole assy. The brake flange is a cast iron piece that will bend if abused too much with a hammer if not break. ScottComment
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Re: Trailing Arm Disassembly -last step
Scott------
Usually, the brake flange can be separated without using any force so great that it would bend or break the flange. However, if that's a concern or if a lot of force is required, simply place a hardwood block or steel plate on the rear of the bearing support and pound there making sure the trailing arm is well supported on both sides of the bearing support. This will separate both the brake flange and spindle support from the trailing arm.
As far as the studs go, I like to use the existing studs as long as they are not damaged or deteriorated in any way. Here's why: the studs have a short splined section beneath the head. These splines engage and "bite into" the holes in the trailing arm to prevent rotation of the studs when the nuts are ultimately installed and torqued. When these studs are replaced, the new studs will not fit as tight into the existing holes creating the possibility of rotation when the nuts are subsequently torqued. Of course, if the studs are damaged or deteriorated in any way, they must be replaced.In Appreciation of John HinckleyComment
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Re: Trailing Arm Disassembly -last step
Thanks Joe et.al. The brake flange came out pretty easy per instructions. I kept at the PB all along the way. Wood block support ideas was very good. Like Joe I like to re use any and all parts...not just cause of the splines...I am a purist when it comes to my restoration. Put nuts back on the bolts...and a few whacks three came right out..fourth needed to think about it's sins a while longer but relented. spindle support I used a block of wood on the back side to pound it out. All apart now..lots of rust and grease.. Time to clean her all up and a trip to the Evaporust Spa!!
Keith***************
late Oct 1969 L46 350/350, M21 4spd, 3.70 posi convertible --As with life, restoration is a journey, not a destination. Though restored cars provide both journeys AND destinations!Comment
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