69 L46 Rear Leaf Spring
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Re: 69 L46 Rear Leaf Spring
Not that it makes much of a difference, but I used Rust-oleum Professional Cold Galvanizing Compound spray for the individual spring leaves (top and bottom surfaces), which is rich in zinc. I chose this from information from another NCRS members post of recommendation. I believe the zinc provides a lubrication property that paint may not duplicate. I'm satisfied with the results.
From another posting, I believe it was mentioned that the factory springs were only sprayed on one side, but I could be wrong. I sprayed both top and bottom of each individual leaf.- Top
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Re: 69 L46 Rear Leaf Spring
Some notes while restoring my rear spring:
Quanta-
- After calling them, they confirmed their grey spray paint has no zinc. Instead it has a "proprietary" formula with a "matched correct" color.
- The head on their center spring bolt is too high.
Top Flight
- Their liners are too short AND too narrow.
I ended up using Quanta's liners, NOS bushing retainer cups from Gary Beaupre, NOS bushings from eBay, the original spring bolt and brushed on "Zinc Coating" by "Zinc Kote" available from Amazon. It's super thick (like oatmeal as Gary says), virtually all zinc and the real deal.
Also, Gary will rent you the tool to swage the retainer cups during installation. See https://www.garybeaupre.com/Site/Spring_Retainers.htmlMark Edmondson
Dallas, Texas
Texas Chapter
1970 Coupe, Donnybrooke Green, Light Saddle LS5 M20 A31 C60 G81 N37 N40 UA6 U79
1993 Coupe, 40th Anniversary, 6-speed, PEG 1, FX3, CD, Bronze Top- Top
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Re: 69 L46 Rear Leaf Spring
Aaaaannd we're back. Got the leafs all cleaned up and painted using the primer that came with restore kit I believe was from Paragon. I am happy with how they came out and remember this was a 3rd party replacement spring. I have two questions.
I feel the paint would benefit from some add'l protection so am leaning heavily to a clear matte protective coat. Not looking for a prize winning part here...just want to help the spring to stay looking good...more resistant to dings, etc. Thoughts?
Also, read a bit about using anti-seize between the leaves and protector sleeves. I see only goodness coming from that but am curious on thoughts?
Thanks in advance!***************
late Oct 1969 L46 350/350, M21 4spd, 3.70 posi convertible --As with life, restoration is a journey, not a destination. Though restored cars provide both journeys AND destinations!- Top
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Re: 69 L46 Rear Leaf Spring
Zinc paint is used in this application because it's both corresion and abrasion resistant. Adding a less durable clear top coat invites problems. Brush or spray another coat of Zinc if you want a bit more protection.
I haven't used any lubricant; springs work fine dry. I don't believe the factory did this either. Adding lubricant may be messy and attract dirt.Mark Edmondson
Dallas, Texas
Texas Chapter
1970 Coupe, Donnybrooke Green, Light Saddle LS5 M20 A31 C60 G81 N37 N40 UA6 U79
1993 Coupe, 40th Anniversary, 6-speed, PEG 1, FX3, CD, Bronze Top- Top
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Re: 69 L46 Rear Leaf Spring
Zinc paint is used in this application because it's both corresion and abrasion resistant. Adding a less durable clear top coat invites problems. Brush or spray another coat of Zinc if you want a bit more protection.
I haven't used any lubricant; springs work fine dry. I don't believe the factory did this either. Adding lubricant may be messy and attract dirt.
Second question, am I find to just brush the Zinc Coat over the grey primer I have on there now?***************
late Oct 1969 L46 350/350, M21 4spd, 3.70 posi convertible --As with life, restoration is a journey, not a destination. Though restored cars provide both journeys AND destinations!- Top
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Re: 69 L46 Rear Leaf Spring
Directions say surface should be clean and rough. Doesn't say it needs to be bare metal. Scuffing your primered surface should be fine.Mark Edmondson
Dallas, Texas
Texas Chapter
1970 Coupe, Donnybrooke Green, Light Saddle LS5 M20 A31 C60 G81 N37 N40 UA6 U79
1993 Coupe, 40th Anniversary, 6-speed, PEG 1, FX3, CD, Bronze Top- Top
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Started working with the Zinc Cote brush on. This stuff is quite unique in that it dries almost instantly. I did spray some Eastwood Pre on first and that did pick up a very slight amount of the primer that I had applied. Did that just to maximize adhesion of the Zinc Cote. You can't really "brush it out"...maybe one or two strokes as within about 3 seconds it thickens up and if you keep brushing some small clumps start to form. Am figuring once I am all done and fully dry i will take some fine steel wool to it to smooth it out a bit...but it not all that bad as is. Stinks like heck! I did see it comes in spray form as well so that might be easier application....but I got a great deal on this can of it so works for me. Also, the color is almost a dead on match for the primer I used so that is a good thing too. Thanks again Mark.***************
late Oct 1969 L46 350/350, M21 4spd, 3.70 posi convertible --As with life, restoration is a journey, not a destination. Though restored cars provide both journeys AND destinations!- Top
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