1963 340HP Ballast Resistor and Coil Test Ad Infinitum

[Frederick H.]

I know there have been lots of posts on testing and have been helpful in the beginning the process. But in troubleshooting the car's willingness to suddenly stop (last time in middle of traffic) with no turning over/power after it occurs (it then starts again after sitting for 10-15 minutes), I am testing the ballast resistor and coil. Findings;
- Ballast resistor is the blue stripe and read 2.2 ohms with the leads disconnected and multi-meter set @ 200, at room temperature (heat index here is 110 so...), and with ignition off.
087 Coil;
- 1.6 ohms with ignition off, multi-meter positive to postive coil, negative to negative coil, multi-meter @ 200.
- 7.1 ohms with ignotion off, multi-meter postive to positive, negative to secondary coil (center), multi-meter set to 20 k
- 4.6V with ignition on, not running, cold
- 4.9-5.0V with ignition on, not running, operating temperature
- multi-meter is all over the place when trying to measure voltage with car running (red light is showing on multi-meter).

I realize i should have the 091 coil with the different ballast resistor but this is what I have to work with.
Thanks for your feedback in advance.

[Bill B.]

Re: 1963 340HP Ballast Resistor and Coil Test Ad Infinitum

Fred, when you say "with no turning over/power after it occurs", do you mean the engine cranks, but does not start? If so, have you changed your points? I have experienced issues when my older point set resulted in similar symptoms. Found it was contamination/corrosion on my point set contacts, that acted as an insulator when they got hot.

If you mean no crank until it cools down, then that is a completely different issue/cause.

[Timothy B.]

Re: 1963 340HP Ballast Resistor and Coil Test Ad Infinitum

Fred, Bill is spot on, if the engine dies and does not crank over it's probably an entirely different issue than not starting when turning over.

[Frederick H.]

Re: 1963 340HP Ballast Resistor and Coil Test Ad Infinitum

Correct - it's as though someone completely disconnected the battery - turning the ignition switch does nothing. I am going to turn on the radio and courtesy lights while I am driving next time and see what continues to work (including the horn) and what doesn't when it dies. M&H wiring harness was installed 2-3 years ago as part of the restoration. I have checked the firewall connector and it is secure.

THanks.

[Paul Y.]

Re: 1963 340HP Ballast Resistor and Coil Test Ad Infinitum

Check your fuse block under the hood for proper connections. Paul

[Frederick H.]

Re: 1963 340HP Ballast Resistor and Coil Test Ad Infinitum

Will do - thanks Paul.

[Richard M.]

Re: 1963 340HP Ballast Resistor and Coil Test Ad Infinitum

Just a FYI, If the Red feed wire in the bulkhead connector is open circuit, the only thing that'll work is the Horn.

This is because the same Red circuit from the Bat+ terminal from the solenoid stud goes directly to the Horn Relay Buss, which powers the horn.

From there, via a splice in the harness, the Red feed circuit also goes to the Bulkhead pin, feeding the remainder of the cars power circuits.

Rich

[Frederick H.]

Re: 1963 340HP Ballast Resistor and Coil Test Ad Infinitum

Good info Richard. I will go back and try to make sense of the wiring diagram and try to check the complete run of the red circuit.
Thanks.

[Richard M.]

Re: 1963 340HP Ballast Resistor and Coil Test Ad Infinitum

Good info Richard. I will go back and try to make sense of the wiring diagram and try to check the complete run of the red circuit.
Thanks.

Fred, The Red feed circuit begins life at the battery solenoid stud. So firstly check that connection, as if it's not tight, vibration could be happening, then horn relay buss terminal.

Also, if you have a battery disconnect, make sure there's a good clean connection. If a "Green Knob" type, those have been problematic.

If you have stock type "Spring Ring" battery cables, verify they're clean and tight, and battery posts have no corrosion.

Since your diagnosing a intermittent fault, best to check everything from the source. Corrosive or poor connections typically fail hot due to high resistance, then repair themselves on cool down.

Rich

[Frederick H.]

Re: 1963 340HP Ballast Resistor and Coil Test Ad Infinitum

Thanks Richard. Yes, I did check the solenoid stud after the first occurrence and it needed to be tightened - will check it again. No battery disconnect and spring ring cables are like new.

[Frederick H.]

Re: 1963 340HP Ballast Resistor and Coil Test Ad Infinitum

Can anyone identify this old ballast resistor? It appears to match the specs in the JM with the exception of having "Made in USA" stamping.Resistor.jpgResistor1.jpg

[Richard M.]

Re: 1963 340HP Ballast Resistor and Coil Test Ad Infinitum

Fred that is one I've never seen before. It may be a early aftermarket version made by Standard Motor Parts or NAPA Echlin. It could also possibly be from another automobile manufacturer, i.e. Ford, Mopar, etc?

The GM replacement versions of the 1963 era looked something like this. Note the Delco Remy stamp. Factory supplied versions had a notch protruding from the end of the mount tab.
P1010025.jpgp1010026.jpgP1010027.jpg

[Danny P.]

Re: 1963 340HP Ballast Resistor and Coil Test Ad Infinitum

Fred, check the purple wire on the inner side of the starter solenoid should have 12volts only when cranking over, if ballast was bad still will crank but not start, check for loose connection on battery and recheck both engine electrical harness if they got loose.

[Frederick H.]

Re: 1963 340HP Ballast Resistor and Coil Test Ad Infinitum

Thank Richard. Yeah, I just purchased both types of resistors - one for the 087 coil I currently have and one for the 091 coil I am supposed to have. There is an 091 coil on eBay for only $500 - guess I'll have to keep looking.

[Frederick H.]

Re: 1963 340HP Ballast Resistor and Coil Test Ad Infinitum

Will do - thanks Danny.