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Re: 1964 glove box door
Jack,
So sorry to hear about your glovebox ding. I would suggest that you contact Brian Tilles at Corvette Specialties of Maryland West to fix up your lid. I sent him one for my '65 and, wow, what a great job they did. I don't recall the cost but I was very impressed with the work. I believe their process includes full restoration of the lid (including paint). The peened rivets remain intact. You can find their ad in the July-August Driveline issue on page 33. Phone: 1-800-638-6450 and on the internet at www.csofmdwest.com. I have had Brian do other restoration work for me and have bought numerous parts from him...never disappointed! He is a NCRS member too.
Hope this helps.
Terry -
Re: 1964 glove box door
Thanks Terry, but I still would like to tackle this myself. I just need someone who can direct me to the tech article that explains the steps for the aluminum face insertion. Jack J.Comment
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Re: 1964 glove box door
Jack, here is my method. Scott
Buy a glove box door kit from somebody so more of the below will make sense.
I use a sharp flexible putty knife to go under the emblem and cut off the pins holding it. Hit the putty knife kinda hard to cut them and they will just stay inside the door. The emblem will still be useable, just clean it up and use clear silicone to glue it back on. The cut off pin stubs will provide a glue index. Or if you wish, buy a new emblem and clear silicone it into the old holes.
Now take a red marker and put a red circle around each of the pin holes so you can find the holes later and line them up with the new top piece.
If you have pushed on the aluminum door panel you know it has some spring to it and that there is room between the door and the aluminum. That is where we put your new aluminum that you bought.
You need to make a pattern of the D shape of the aluminum in the old door. Use shirt cardboard and make a good fitting pattern cause that is the pattern you are going to transfer to the new aluminum. Put the emblem holes in the pattern so you have a reference to where to place the pattern on the new aluminum.
I know it looks too big to fit but it will. Maybe 3/8" is better but a little more will fit.
For me I put one of the bottom corners in first.
Oh Yeal take that putty knife and slide it between the old aluminum and the door all the way around to make sure the new aluminum will clear. And it cleans the crud out some.
Leave the plastic on the new aluminum till the new aluminum is positioned where you want it.
At some point you have to slide the new aluminum under the door further than the 3/8" to be able to get it up under the opposite side. Thats another reason to use the putty knife to clean it out under there. You dont want to skin the new aluminum.
Just go slow pushing the new aluminum under the door and then its there. Now is why the pin holes got red, take your small awl, pin hole size or smaller, and move the new aluminum to line up the holes. Your done, except taking off the clear cover.
No need for glue or anything between the old and new aluminum. It aint moving.
Enjoy your new door. Paint if necessary.
Scott
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Re: 1964 glove box door
Jack,
There was also an article in a past Restorer issue regarding the replacement of the aluminum insert. I'll give you directions on how I got to it.
1. First, type Restoration Database into the search window at the top of the page and hit "enter"
2. Go to the second page and at the top you'll find: Sticky
atabase of Restoration Documents which you'll want to open
3. Proceed down the page to the listing with the heading "Complete Database of Documents Information"
4. Proceed down page to "C2 Glovebox Door Restoration - Jerry Fuccillo.pdf and open same
There you have it!
TerryComment
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Re: 1964 glove box door
Just noticed my stupidity. The database can be accessed from the "Stickies" on the opening page of the TDB
. I must be losing it.
TerryComment
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Re: 1964 glove box door
Thank you Terry, Scott & Jerry for for sharing your VALUABLE information. Jack J.Comment
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