Help! Strut Rod Install - NCRS Discussion Boards

Help! Strut Rod Install

Collapse
X
 
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts
  • Jeffrey S.
    Extremely Frequent Poster
    • May 31, 1988
    • 1879

    Help! Strut Rod Install

    I had new bushings put in my strut rods and now I'm trying to re-install them. I am following the shop manual procedure. The car is on my lift that has the suspension fully unloaded- the wheel are up off the ground. After installing the inner end to the bracket loosely attached to the differential, as per the manual, the wheel end is not even close to going in. What proceedure do you all use to get them in? What am I missing?
    Jeff
  • Robert P.
    Very Frequent User
    • October 19, 2019
    • 300

    #2
    Re: Help! Strut Rod Install

    Jeff , i would think putting the strut rod on the shock mount first and then pulling it over with a ratchet strap would work
    Bob

    Comment

    • Leif A.
      Extremely Frequent Poster
      • August 31, 1997
      • 3607

      #3
      Re: Help! Strut Rod Install

      Jeff,
      The issue you're having is being exacerbated by the fully unloaded suspension. This job is much easier using a drive on lift where the suspension sits at normal ride height. You're going to need to unload the suspension. Remove both rear tire, disconnect the spring at both ends, raise the trailing arm...and, then it should be doable. Don't forget to have your camber reset when complete.
      Leif
      '67 Coupe L79, M21, C60, N14, N40, J50, A31, U69, A01, QB1
      Top Flight 2017 Lone Star Regional

      Comment

      • Patrick H.
        Beyond Control Poster
        • December 1, 1989
        • 11608

        #4
        Re: Help! Strut Rod Install

        Leif is correct. It's easier to do with the car sitting on the suspension, or at least having the suspension "as if" it was on the ground.
        Vice-Chairman (West), Michigan Chapter NCRS
        71 "deer modified" coupe
        72 5-Star Bowtie / Duntov coupe. https://www.flickr.com/photos/124695...57649252735124
        2008 coupe
        Available stickers: Engine suffix code, exhaust tips & mufflers, shocks, AIR diverter valve broadcast code.

        Comment

        • Jeffrey S.
          Extremely Frequent Poster
          • May 31, 1988
          • 1879

          #5
          Re: Help! Strut Rod Install

          Thanks for your advise.
          Bob: I thought of that but am afraid that I will bend the rod. Is there enough flex in the bushings to avoid bending?
          Lief and Patrick: I know that you are right because when I removed them I had to "unload" the suspension by jacking up by the the tires to free up both the rods and the shock. I was really hoping that I didn't have to unbolt the spring! I will try lowering the car so a jack can be put under the shock mount and raising the suspension to get it aligned. Worst case I will unbolt the spring. The last time I did this 11 years ago I was on my back under the car on jack stands and I got it done. Getting older and dummer I guess.
          Jeff

          Comment

          • Leif A.
            Extremely Frequent Poster
            • August 31, 1997
            • 3607

            #6
            Re: Help! Strut Rod Install

            Jeff,
            Another thought. You might consider putting the tires back on, lower the car to the ground, roll the car out and back about 20-30 feet to "set" the rear suspension then insert some wooden wedges into the rear trailing arm pocket (where the toe shims are located). Then, you should be able to raise the car, remove the tires and the trailing arms will be held in place, as though the car were still on the ground.
            Leif
            '67 Coupe L79, M21, C60, N14, N40, J50, A31, U69, A01, QB1
            Top Flight 2017 Lone Star Regional

            Comment

            • Patrick H.
              Beyond Control Poster
              • December 1, 1989
              • 11608

              #7
              Re: Help! Strut Rod Install

              Originally posted by Leif Anderson (29632)
              Jeff,
              Another thought. You might consider putting the tires back on, lower the car to the ground, roll the car out and back about 20-30 feet to "set" the rear suspension then insert some wooden wedges into the rear trailing arm pocket (where the toe shims are located). Then, you should be able to raise the car, remove the tires and the trailing arms will be held in place, as though the car were still on the ground.
              Or, lower it down and install them on the ground….
              Vice-Chairman (West), Michigan Chapter NCRS
              71 "deer modified" coupe
              72 5-Star Bowtie / Duntov coupe. https://www.flickr.com/photos/124695...57649252735124
              2008 coupe
              Available stickers: Engine suffix code, exhaust tips & mufflers, shocks, AIR diverter valve broadcast code.

              Comment

              • Jeffrey S.
                Extremely Frequent Poster
                • May 31, 1988
                • 1879

                #8
                Re: Help! Strut Rod Install

                Lief, Patrick- Thanks for your responses. I will try a few things tomorrow. I think I have it figured out. As the trailing arm is raised, the strut rod mount at the spindle moves in an arc and moves closer to the rear of the car until the half shafts are parallel to the ground. Somewhere in that arc the rod and mount will line up. With the suspension fully unloaded the trailing arm is pointing downward at the rear and the mount position is forward. By rotating it moves rearward. At least in theory. I will let you all know what happens. And thanks again for your help. Would it be bad to raise the trailing arm by the half shaft or would that damage something?
                Jeff

                Comment

                • Leif A.
                  Extremely Frequent Poster
                  • August 31, 1997
                  • 3607

                  #9
                  Re: Help! Strut Rod Install

                  Originally posted by Jeffrey Salz (13182)
                  Lief, Patrick- Thanks for your responses. I will try a few things tomorrow. I think I have it figured out. As the trailing arm is raised, the strut rod mount at the spindle moves in an arc and moves closer to the rear of the car until the half shafts are parallel to the ground. Somewhere in that arc the rod and mount will line up. With the suspension fully unloaded the trailing arm is pointing downward at the rear and the mount position is forward. By rotating it moves rearward. At least in theory. I will let you all know what happens. And thanks again for your help. Would it be bad to raise the trailing arm by the half shaft or would that damage something?
                  Jeff
                  Yes, it would be.
                  Leif
                  '67 Coupe L79, M21, C60, N14, N40, J50, A31, U69, A01, QB1
                  Top Flight 2017 Lone Star Regional

                  Comment

                  • Scott P.
                    Very Frequent User
                    • April 30, 1992
                    • 178

                    #10
                    Re: Help! Strut Rod Install

                    Jeffery, the method that works for me is to put the SRs into their outer shock mount bolts, leaving them loose, easy to move up & down. Then installing them into the strut rod bracket with their adjustment bolt loose. Jack the bracket up to the differential while aligning the bolt holes with two big round screwdrivers. Now you can put in a bolt and then the others.
                    Since I dont have a lift and work on the floor this works for me. Scott

                    Comment

                    • Jeffrey S.
                      Extremely Frequent Poster
                      • May 31, 1988
                      • 1879

                      #11
                      Re: Help! Strut Rod Install

                      SUCCESS!! Thank you all for taking the time to respond. I put the car down on all fours and it took less than 10 minutes to do each side- the rods just slipped right in. Attached is a photo of the completed job. The lift I have is a drive on with the center sections that raises the car leaving the wheels free. Putting the car down on the drive on ramps, there was plenty of room to get under and put everything together and torque the fasteners. Now I just need to roll the car and get the camber right.
                      Jeff
                      Attached Files

                      Comment

                      • Tony S.
                        NCRS Vice President, Director Region VII & 10
                        • April 30, 1981
                        • 969

                        #12
                        Re: Help! Strut Rod Install

                        Originally posted by Jeffrey Salz (13182)
                        I had new bushings put in my strut rods and now I'm trying to re-install them. I am following the shop manual procedure. The car is on my lift that has the suspension fully unloaded- the wheel are up off the ground. After installing the inner end to the bracket loosely attached to the differential, as per the manual, the wheel end is not even close to going in. What proceedure do you all use to get them in? What am I missing?
                        Jeff
                        While your car is on the lift, install the strut rods on the inboard side. Then place a transmission stand or some other platform under the rear tire (or trailing arm). Slowly lower your car so that the tire (or trailing arm) comes into contact with your transmission stand. Your tire will stay in place while your car slowly lowers. Once it is in the correct position, the outboard end of the strut rod will align to the lower shock mount. Put the outboard side of the strut rod in place. You may need to use a rubber mallet to gently pursuade it into place onto the lower shock mount. It works for me every time. Good luck! Tony
                        Region VII Director (serving members in Arkansas, Kansas, Louisiana, Missouri, Oklahoma and Texas).
                        Original member of the Kansas City Chapter, est'd 07/11/1982.
                        Member: 1965 and 1966 National Judging Teams
                        Judging Chairman--Kansas City Chapter.
                        Co-Editor of the 1965 TIM and JG, 6th and 7th editions.

                        Comment

                        Working...

                        Debug Information

                        Searching...Please wait.
                        An unexpected error was returned: 'Your submission could not be processed because you have logged in since the previous page was loaded.

                        Please push the back button and reload the previous window.'
                        An unexpected error was returned: 'Your submission could not be processed because the token has expired.

                        Please push the back button and reload the previous window.'
                        An internal error has occurred and the module cannot be displayed.
                        There are no results that meet this criteria.
                        Search Result for "|||"