1954 Original 2 speed Powerglide transmission

[Lew K.]

2 issues: 1.2. After warmup, the transmission pauses to drop in gear when at full stop, but eventually will engage (2-5 seconds). This issue only occurs when engine and tranny are at operating temperature. Anybody have ideas/suggestions?

[Dan P.]

Re: 1954 Original 2 speed Powerglide transmission

Make sure it is full of fluid .Then adjust the front band.This is what is on the web some say in to 72"lbs then 3 3/4 out
Some say in to 40"lbs then 4 out . Please look this up .I do not remember Count how many turns it takes to bottom out . If it screws in much more that 4 or so turns in the low band is worn out .That is what engages at a stop light.

[Joe R.]

Re: 1954 Original 2 speed Powerglide transmission

2 issues: 1.2. After warmup, the transmission pauses to drop in gear when at full stop, but eventually will engage (2-5 seconds). This issue only occurs when engine and tranny are at operating temperature. Anybody have ideas/suggestions?

I don't know whether this info will be helpful, but there is a "known thing" that can cause early cast iron Powerglides to leak transmission fluid on the floor after being parked for a while. Even if this is not the cause of your current problem, it's useful to be aware of this because it may happen to you in the future. Please keep in mind that I am not an expert on cast iron Powerglides. I'm only repeating what I have heard and read.

Under normal operation with the engine running, the torque converter is filled with several quarts of transmission fluid that are pumped into the torque converter by a pump in the transmission.

Much of the fluid in the torque converter is at a level that is above the normal fluid level in the main case. To keep the fluid in the torque converter from draining back into the main case when the engine is shut off, there is a one-way check valve in the fluid circuit to prevent drain back.

Sometimes this check valve fails to seal properly, and fluid from the torque converter gradually drains back down into the main case, raising the fluid level in the main case. This rising fluid level can begin to leak from any of several penetrations in the sides of the case, such as shift levers or the place where the dipstick tube enters the main case.

If the car has been parked for a long time, enough fluid can accumulate in the main case that at startup, fluid is pushed out the top of the dipstick tube. Normally the dipstick exit would be prevented by having an air vent on the top of the transmission. Reportedly, early versions of the cast iron Powerglide had no air vent, but GM added one in later production. I believe there is at least one Restorer article about this problem, and about methods for adding the vent.

Note that the vent only prevents fluid from being ejected out the dipstick tube at startup. It does not eliminate possible drain-back due to a leaking check valve. So, even with a vent, you might still get leaks out the sides of the transmission due to excessively high fluid levels in the main case.

If there is a drain-back problem, the easiest solution is to simply start the car every few days or weeks as needed. This should return any excessive fluid that has accumulated in the case back up into the torque converter. My guess is that simply starting the car with the transmission in neutral would be sufficient for re-filling the torque converter, but some people say it is necessary to actually put the transmission into Drive or Reverse to accomplish refilling the torque converter. In any event, it is not necessary to actually drive the car.