67 Heater Blower Motor

[Jeff B.]

Am needing to replace the original blower motor on my 67 A/C car. Original one has started squealing. Have checked around and seem to find that there are different motors depending on A/C or non-A/C. My GM Parts book from 1973 show a PN 4960505 for non-A/C, and a 4960538 for A/C. Does it really matter? Just wanting it to function correctly.

[Keith B.]

Re: 67 Heater Blower Motor

Yes I believe any GM car of the era with AC is the same

[Mark F.]

Re: 67 Heater Blower Motor

Am needing to replace the original blower motor on my 67 A/C car. Original one has started squealing. Have checked around and seem to find that there are different motors depending on A/C or non-A/C. My GM Parts book from 1973 show a PN 4960505 for non-A/C, and a 4960538 for A/C. Does it really matter? Just wanting it to function correctly.

Jeff,

My '67 AIM seems to be showing two different configurations...but I don't know if the motor inside the guts of the A/C assembly is the same ?

Standard Blower UPC 1 ASM Sheet D6 vs C60_001.jpg

[Owen L.]

Re: 67 Heater Blower Motor

Squealing sounds like dry bushings. Before replacing it, I'd disassemble to grease/oil the bearings/bushings (I forget what's in them). They're simple motors and certainly worth a try.

[Joe R.]

Re: 67 Heater Blower Motor

Am needing to replace the original blower motor on my 67 A/C car. Original one has started squealing. Have checked around and seem to find that there are different motors depending on A/C or non-A/C. My GM Parts book from 1973 show a PN 4960505 for non-A/C, and a 4960538 for A/C. Does it really matter? Just wanting it to function correctly.

The fan blower motor for A/C cars is more powerful and draws more current. Part of the reason is that A/C cars have more air outlets to feed. I think the wiring harness for A/C cars used heavy-gauge wire and an in-line fuse.

FYI, if you are comfortable doing basic mechanical repairs, you can fix the squealing of the motor bearings very easily, even without disassembling the motor. The bearings in the motor have no moving parts (they are not roller bearings or ball bearings).

Rather, they are made of a porous bronze alloy called Oil-Lite. This porous material absorbs oil and after soaking it in oil, it becomes a "permanently lubricated" bearing for about 30 years. Eventually the bearing dries up and begins to squeal.

All you need to do to add another 30 years of service us to add some oil to re-saturate the Oil-Lite bushing to like-new.

In most vintage GM heater motors, the Oil-Lite bushing is surrounded by a thick felt washer that is saturated with oil at the time of manufacture. You can re-saturate the felt washer by drilling a small hole from the outside of the motor into the felt washer cavity, and then adding oil through the small hole. After oiling, I usually clean the hole and add a drop of JB Weld to seal it, but this sealing operation is probably not necessary.

If you add oil in this way, the motor will probably be good for another 30 years. I can send you or post a photo that shows how to recognize the felt washer cavity.

In general, most small motors under 1/2 hp use Oil-Lite bushings at both ends of the shaft. I have performed this re-oiling procedure on dozens of small motors over the last 50 years (auto fans, oven fans, bathroom fans, window fans, etc).

For some reason, I get satisfaction out of re-oiling an otherwise perfectly good motor to give it another 30 years of life.

[Leif A.]

Re: 67 Heater Blower Motor

Joe,
Very interesting and informative...I never knew. Thanx.

[Gary B.]

[Richard M.]

Re: 67 Heater Blower Motor

Joe's procedure is spot on. I've been doing the same for years, however on some motors the shaft is seized to the Oil-Lite bushing "re-lubrication" requires a more aggressive approach. This involves cutting things up to gain access to the dried out culprits.

On a C2 heater blower, the motor housing is permanently attached to the mount plate via welds, therefore it cannot easily be disassembled for oiling like earlier heater motors, headlight/power window/antenna motors, etc.

This is a non-C60 blower, but similar configuration at the end bushing area on the C60 version iirc. Joe could confirm, but I would drill in these area(s), lube, test, etc.
P7250061 - Copy.jpg

This is what the felt pad and bushing looks like inside(ref C1 heater motor). Note similar end configuration as on the above C2 motor.
P3110024.jpg

Inside end bushing area of C1 blower motor. There is a felt pad below the 6 segment flat spring. The idea is to get oil to soak into the felt pad for lubrication of the bushing.
P3110018.jpg

On some motors if the shaft is seized to the bushing it requires more work. E.G. HERE

Rich

[Mark M.]

Re: 67 Heater Blower Motor

Thanks Joe, This should help a number of us fixer uppers.

[Joe R.]

Re: 67 Heater Blower Motor

Joe's procedure is spot on. I've been doing the same for years, however on some motors the shaft is seized to the Oil-Lite bushing "re-lubrication" requires a more aggressive approach. This involves cutting things up to gain access to the dried out culprits.

Rich

Hi Rich:

WOW, that was an amazing rebuild sequence that resulted in a "like new" motor!

For bearing problems, I sometimes separate the housing halves and remove the armature (the assembly that rotates) to gain access to the felt washers from the inside, but I don't disassemble the motor any further. For that type of repair, the main challenge is getting the two commutator brushes back in place during re-assembly.

For people who are uncomfortable with even this degree of disassembly, adding the oil through a small drilled hole can be done if the only problem is a squeaky bearing. The key to that method is understanding the internal construction enough so that you know where to drill.

Fortunately, the felt washers are large targets and are usually easy to locate by inspecting the exterior of the motor. The attached photo from your post shows an internal view of the size and location of the felt washer at the back end of the motor:

I won't be home until tomorrow, but I have a 1967 A/C motor in my shop and I will try to take some photos that show some suggested locations to drill a small hole, such as 1/8", for adding oil to the front and rear felt washers without disassembling the motor.

BTW, this same approach can be used for adding oil to the Oilite bushings in the windshield wiper transmissions. Sometimes those bushings dry out and the wiper mechanism squeaks. Attached is an article on that topic that I wrote for the Spring 2017 Restorer.

[Joe R.]

Re: 67 Heater Blower Motor

Hi Gary:

Per the description I just posted in Post #10, I will try to take some photos after I get home.

[Jeff B.]

Re: 67 Heater Blower Motor

The fan blower motor for A/C cars is more powerful and draws more current. Part of the reason is that A/C cars have more air outlets to feed. I think the wiring harness for A/C cars used heavy-gauge wire and an in-line fuse.

FYI, if you are comfortable doing basic mechanical repairs, you can fix the squealing of the motor bearings very easily, even without disassembling the motor. The bearings in the motor have no moving parts (they are not roller bearings or ball bearings).

Rather, they are made of a porous bronze alloy called Oil-Lite. This porous material absorbs oil and after soaking it in oil, it becomes a "permanently lubricated" bearing for about 30 years. Eventually the bearing dries up and begins to squeal.

All you need to do to add another 30 years of service us to add some oil to re-saturate the Oil-Lite bushing to like-new.

In most vintage GM heater motors, the Oil-Lite bushing is surrounded by a thick felt washer that is saturated with oil at the time of manufacture. You can re-saturate the felt washer by drilling a small hole from the outside of the motor into the felt washer cavity, and then adding oil through the small hole. After oiling, I usually clean the hole and add a drop of JB Weld to seal it, but this sealing operation is probably not necessary.

If you add oil in this way, the motor will probably be good for another 30 years. I can send you or post a photo that shows how to recognize the felt washer cavity.

In general, most small motors under 1/2 hp use Oil-Lite bushings at both ends of the shaft. I have performed this re-oiling procedure on dozens of small motors over the last 50 years (auto fans, oven fans, bathroom fans, window fans, etc).

For some reason, I get satisfaction out of re-oiling an otherwise perfectly good motor to give it another 30 years of life.

Joe:
Was at a car show over the weekend, and one of the other exhibitors who works on a lot of older cars suggested the very same thing. He claims to have done this procedure many times and offered to fix mine. He actually removed the motor while at the show, and says he'll have it relubricated (oiled) soon. Thank you so much for your reassuring suggestion.
Jeff

[Tim T.]

Re: 67 Heater Blower Motor

ALOHA, Thanks for the tip gentleman. I was able to stop my 5044559 motor from squealing in no time following your instructions. Tips like these make my yearly dues SO worth it.