1963-1982 Power Steering System Installation Procedures

[Gerald C.]

I just finished installing a correct power steering system on my 1963. Although I did watch a couple of videos several times, I was always looking for a set of good, detailed procedures to follow. After watching a few of these videos, I came up with a set of procedures that I jotted down while watching these videos.

I've attached these procedures to this post and hopefully I didn't miss anything. If I did, please let me know and I'll correct them.

Hope these help!

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Jerry

[Tom D.]

Jerry: Thanks, I have a paper listing the steps. It was put together years ago by the SSBC. Think that stands for Stainless Steel Brakes Company. I can mail it to you.

[Gerald C.]

Tom,

That would be great. Maybe Rich Mozzetta can post both of our documents in his document file for anyone interested will have access to them.

Jerry

[Tom D.]

Most of the long SSBC page (1 of 2), from a PS kit sold. some years ago. I am attempting to find when...

[Tom D.]

Stainless Steel Brake Co = SSBC page (2 of 2), from a low HP Power Steering kit sold some years ago.

[Duke W.]

From scan in post #1:

"One bracket is for 1963-1965 327 CU with either 340 HP or 365 HP..."

Mechanical lifter C2 327s (and possibly very early '65 L-79s) including '70 to 72' LT-1s are equipped with a 5 quart oil pan whose deep section extends about three-quarters of the distance from rear to front, and this precludes installation of the power steering cylinder as it occupies the same space as the front of the deep section.

So I don't understand how the above statement is correct unless you're talking about and aftermarket PS system or it's made clear that the large pan must be replaced by the standard 4-quart pan to add the OE PS system with the above engines.

Duke

[Terry M.]

From scan in post #1:

"One bracket is for 1963-1965 327 CU with either 340 HP or 365 HP..."

Mechanical lifter C2 327s (and possibly very early '65 L-79s) including '70 to 72' LT-1s are equipped with a 5 quart oil pan whose deep section extends about three-quarters of the distance from rear to front, and this precludes installation of the power steering cylinder as it occupies the same space as the front of the deep section.

So I don't understand how the above statement is correct unless you're talking about and aftermarket PS system or it's made clear that the large pan must be replaced by the standard 4-quart pan to add the OE PS system with the above engines.

Duke

A Minor correction Duke:

The larger 5-quart oil pan is only on 1970 LT1s built before about April of 1970. If the 1970 LT1 has engine suffix code CTU it was originally equipped with the larger oil pan that precludes installing the power steering ram, as you have indicated. If the engine suffix code is CTK the engine was originally equipped with the 4 quart oil pan and power steering can be added. For those CTK engines power steering could have been a factory installed option. All 1971 & 1972 LT1s had the 4 quart pan factory installed and power steering was an available factory option.

[Duke W.]

Thanks for the correction, Terry.

Duke

[Leonard M.]

Terry, All correct (of course) what you said regarding the CTU and CTK 1970 LT1 and also the 71-72 LT1 engines. But, Duke mentioned the C2 solid lifter high performance engine as well. I am pretty sure the 64-65 solid lifter engines all had the large longer sump pan so no P/S for those as well; unless changed to a standard pan to allow adding P/S.

[Duke W.]

I am pretty sure the 64-65 solid lifter engines all had the large longer sump pan so no P/S for those as well; unless changed to a standard pan to allow adding P/S.

Your statement is correct. The larger long sump oil pan also precluded installation of the steering damper that was installed on jobs with engines that were equipped with the small short sump pan and manual steering.

Duke

[Duke W.]

WHAT HAPPENED TO THE EDIT FUNCTION?

The first sentence in the above post should read as follows:

The large, long sump oil pan was install on ALL 1963 - 1965 mechanical lifter engines.

Duke

[Leif A.]

WHAT HAPPENED TO THE EDIT FUNCTION?

The first sentence in the above post should read as follows:

The large, long sump oil pan was install on ALL 1963 - 1965 mechanical lifter engines.

Duke

Duke,
I've been wondering the same thing. Hopefully, that can be added/fixed.

[Thomas B.]

Here's a pic of my 63 L76 with power steering added by previous owner. Oil pan was changed to what looks like it may be a 56-62 low hp pan. Is there any reason a 63 low horse pan couldn't be used?
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[Duke W.]

I don't know if any C1 pan will work.

Certainly the 4-quart C2 pan will work since the deep section only extends about half way from the rear rather than three-quarters of the distance as does the 5-quart pan used on C2 mechanical lifter engines and the '70 LT-1. I don't know if this 4-quart C2 pan was shared with contemporaneous Chevrolet models or not. Early C3 pans might work, but there are several part numbers for later C3 pans, and I can't comment on their suitability.

In addition to the larger pan, C2 mechanical lifter engines have a windage tray that is secured with five main cap studs. These fasteners have an extension that extends several inches down, and the ends are threaded to accept nuts that secure the windage tray.

Of the five, at least the most forward stud will likely need to be replaced with a conventional main cap bolt. In fact, if one were to replace the big pan with the small pan to accommodate power steering, I recommend replacing ALL five main cap studs with conventional bolts.

The complete set in serviceable condition - 5-quart pan, windage tray, and studs is likely worth a decent sum to someone who wants to upgrade the the 5-quart pan.

The higher an engine revs the tougher it is for oil to get back down to the sump and keep the pump pickup covered. This is why Chevrolet designed the 5-quart pan and windage tray for high revving mechanical lifter engines. However if you don't rev over 6000 very often and don't jazz the car around corners at maximum lateral g very often I don't think you will experience oil starvation as long as the static oil level doesn't drop too far down.

For all engines I recommend keeping the oil near the full mark. Know your oil consumption and add a quarter-quart of oil when necessary.

The best way to check oil is with the engine fully warmed up, on a dead level surface a few minutes after shutdown. Most gas station pads are level, so If you stop for fuel, the first thing to do is remove the dipstick. Wipe is down and lay it in a convenient place. This will allow oil in the dipstick tube to drain down, which will yield a better reading. After you finish fueling, insert the dipstick and take the reading.

After sitting a week or two or more oil up in the engine - a quarter to a half quart or more will drain down potentially giving a false overfill reading or a full reading when the level is actually a quarter to a half-quart or more down.

Duke

[Duke W.]

Duke,
I've been wondering the same thing. Hopefully, that can be added/fixed.

...looks like it got fixed... thanks IT team!

Duke