'63 300HP oil pan options? - NCRS Discussion Boards

'63 300HP oil pan options?

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  • Paul B.
    Very Frequent User
    • January 31, 2007
    • 310

    '63 300HP oil pan options?

    Hi,
    I have a very nice restored all numbers '63, but I would like to replace the oil pan. I believe that the one in the car is the original, but it had a dent/crease in right front corner since before I bought it, and now to the sump and area near the drain plug during a jack slip when the engine was being reinstalled by the mechanic.

    I'm sure it can be banged out (likely not the crease) but can it be repaired well enough so as not to show a repair at a reasonable price, or better to get another? Are the "correct reproductions" correct reproductions?

    Many thanks,
    Paul
    IMG_1731a.jpg IMG_1739b.jpg IMG_1743b.jpg
  • Dorsey F.
    Frequent User
    • April 11, 2022
    • 32

    #2
    If that were mine, I’d repair it. If you have to pay someone else, it could be impractical. The crease can be removed. Access isn’t easy, but not impossible. Later GM and repos have a larger opening and require a different gasket, but work just fine.

    If you don’t want to or don’t feel comfortable doing the repair, take it off and to a PDR practitioner. PDR- paintless dent removal. Car lots and body shops know who does it.

    Comment

    • Leif A.
      Extremely Frequent Poster
      • August 31, 1997
      • 3607

      #3
      Paul,
      You can always go new...

      Shop 1963-1979 Chevrolet Corvette Oil Pan - 4 Quart Small Block Painted Orange Correct - Auto Accessories of America at Top Flight Automotive. From restoration to performance we offer the highest quality parts & accessories for your project.

      image.png
      Leif
      '67 Coupe L79, M21, C60, N14, N40, J50, A31, U69, A01, QB1
      Top Flight 2017 Lone Star Regional

      Comment

      • Paul B.
        Very Frequent User
        • January 31, 2007
        • 310

        #4
        Thanks guys,
        I saw the repros, they look good in the pics, $300US translates to about $500 Canadian. I think I'll first try the repair route, good idea about the painless dent removal, I know a place that does great work, guess I thought that the gauge of the metal would be too thick?

        Paul

        Comment

        • Tom P.
          Extremely Frequent Poster
          • April 1, 1980
          • 1814

          #5
          I would repair that pan in a heartbeat, and put it back on.
          NON-trap door pans have a baffle which is spot welded to the inside of the pan.
          VERY, VERY carefully, a drill can be used to partially drill into each spot weld. Then GENTLY use a thin putty knife to tap between the inside of the pan wall and baffle. Once the baffle is removed, the dent can be gently hammer/dollyed out.
          Once the damaged area is worked out, insert the baffle and LIGHTLY tach weld it back where the original spot welds were.
          Yep, I've done this to a few------------------PLUS, I gotta drop the pan on our 70 Chevelle and do the same thing-----------next time the engine comes out!

          Comment

          • Joe L.
            Beyond Control Poster
            • February 1, 1988
            • 43193

            #6
            Originally posted by Paul Bougie (46919)
            Thanks guys,
            I saw the repros, they look good in the pics, $300US translates to about $500 Canadian. I think I'll first try the repair route, good idea about the painless dent removal, I know a place that does great work, guess I thought that the gauge of the metal would be too thick?

            Paul
            The reproductions are excellent.

            However, you might be able to repair your current pan, especially if it can be done by the "paintless" type of repair used by automotive body shops for automotive body repair. I tend to agree with your assessment, though, the gauge of the pan metal is too thick for this type of repair. But, it's easy enough to inquire to an expert to see if it can be done.

            Otherwise, if other types of repair are used, I don't think that you're going to end up with a satisfactory end-product if your expectation is a pan configuration that's exactly as-original. If you try it yourself, though, all you have to lose is your time. If you have to pay someone to do it (using non-"paintless" methods) and your intention is an as-original configuration, I think you'll end up spending money and still needing to buy a reproduction. By the way, If you do have someone do it with non-"paintless" methods be sure up front that no filler ("bondo" or otherwise) is going to be used to complete the restoration after pound-out.
            In Appreciation of John Hinckley

            Comment

            • Gary B.
              Extremely Frequent Poster
              • February 1, 1997
              • 6979

              #7
              Joe,

              If the paintless method is 95% successful, but a little filler was needed to make it look perfect, why would that be a problem since the pan will be painted, which will cover up the filler?

              Gary

              Comment

              • Joe L.
                Beyond Control Poster
                • February 1, 1988
                • 43193

                #8
                Originally posted by Gary Beaupre (28818)
                Joe,

                If the paintless method is 95% successful, but a little filler was needed to make it look perfect, why would that be a problem since the pan will be painted, which will cover up the filler?

                Gary
                Gary------

                Personally, I would never use any sort of filler on an oil pan. For one thing, most fillers are not intended to consistently withstand the temperatures that an oil pan can reach. Secondly, it's extremely difficult if not impossible to achieve original contours with filler. As it is with most body repairs using filler, it will be discernible to the eye.
                In Appreciation of John Hinckley

                Comment

                • Paul B.
                  Very Frequent User
                  • January 31, 2007
                  • 310

                  #9
                  Appreciate all of the input guys. I emailed a local painless dent removal guy with the pictures, I've used him before over the years and he does great work, we'll see what he answers.

                  Paul

                  Comment

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