re brake line

[Wayne P.]

Would anyone have any ideas on replacing the brake line on a 1964 from front to back 3/16 . Is it legal to put in a two piece. I tried to put a pre formed
one in without success. I will require to bend it myself.
It seems it would be easier to run it on the upper frame rail on the outside .Hidden by the side trim.
Thanks

[Peter J.]

Re: re brake line

Wayne,
I've done 66 & 67 long lines on jack stands without any problems. Who did you get your brake lines from? I would check your manufacturer first if you are having problems with fit, before you make up your own.
Pete

[Wayne P.]

Re: re brake line

I purchased it from VBP who got it from Classic Tube. I found it near impossible to get it between the body and the frame specially were the cross over goes. I also have a four post lift. I will take another go at it.
Thanks. might also be that they gave me a 1/4 line with the spring covering around it. Long story converting front to Disk with duel master and power vac.

[Bob R.]

Re: re brake line

I have been asking some friends of mine about the installation of this line for my 63. I was told by an experienced corvette person that you can install it from the out side after removing the rocker cover. You will not be able to get at the mounting clips however.

[John H.]

Re: re brake line

Wayne,
I've done 66 & 67 long lines on jack stands without any problems. Who did you get your brake lines from? I would check your manufacturer first if you are having problems with fit, before you make up your own.
Pete

Pete - The '63-'65 line runs on top of the frame; they moved it down on the inside wall in '66.

[Peter J.]

Re: re brake line

That would explain the difficulty-It sure was easy on 66 and 67.
Thanks John

[Eugene B.]

Re: re brake line

Wayne,
Replacing the long brake line to the rear can be accomplished with the body on the frame, but it will be one of your worst restoration experiences.

When I replaced the line on my '65, it took me approximately 14 hours. I think it would have been easier to jack up the body and work between the frame and body.

Here's a few tips on my 14 hour experience. As someone suggested, you can work through the existing gap behind the rocker panel molding. There are two clips where the line goes in front of the frame kick-up that will have to be bent to get the old line out. (You cannot get to the hex head machine screws to loosen them).

You'll have to just grab the old line and yank it out. You will also have to bend the heck out of the new line to get it in place. You would never be able to bend and rebend a stainless steel line, so forget that.

I started the new line in from between the gap behind the rocker panel rearward of the center body mount and sent it toward the differential. When you get it back far enough, bend the front of the line and start it toward the front of the car outboard of the body mount. Pull it forward and start bending the line to get it going toward the frame kick-up point.

Eventually, you'll get it to lay in its approximate location. Once that is accomplished, you can start rebending the line to its original shape with tubing benders. I also used a 3/8" dowel rod that I sanded a radius in the end of to match the line diameter for pushing and smoothing.

After several hours of rebending and smoothing you will have it as close as you can get it using the explained procedure. Getting the line under the clips on top of the frame is also a problem, but it can be done with enough pushing and pulling.

I'm sorry for the long post. If you think getting through this post was difficult, wait till you tackle this project.

Good luck,
Gene