C3 chassis resto

[Michael L.]

I am restoring my 69 L-46 coupe and currently have the body off the chassis. I have several questions:

1) Should I restore my own contol arms or should I buy the already restored ones? One of my lower control arms appeard all bent up near the shaft, like some yahoo wailed on it with a hammer. Should I straighten it or is it possible that it was like this at the factory? During the restore, what has to happen to the shaft? Does it need to come out? Are there bearings or seals that need to be changed? There is some pitting on the control arm and shaft. Should I use filler on this or just sand down the metal itself? Would sanding the shaft down compromise its integrity?

2) Some of my chassis hardware has become so rusted that the markings are no longer visible without considerable effort. Should I reuse them anyway for the sake of originality or should I replace them? Does anyone sell new correct hardware? Who is the best place to go to for hardware refinishing?

I will try to attach some photos of the control arms where they are bent.

Thanks in advance for your suggestions.

Mike

[Jordan S.]

Re: C3 chassis resto

I'm in the midst of a '70 front end restoration myself (currently frame-on).I agree that the end of your lower A-arm looks bent. It also looks like someone already replaced the bushing and painted everything black.

The answer to your questions depends on your goal for restoration. Driver? Show car? NCRS judging?

I stripped my lowers bare removing the worn out original ball joints (drilled the rivets), removed the worn out bushings and shaft. Media blasted everything and repainted with eastwood products. My A-arms had some pitting and I used a skim coat of plastic filler to smoothe out the pits after blasting/ priming. I'll install new rubber OEM type bushings and new hardware as my lower bolts don't have any marking left either. Bolt in original style lower ball joints (will rivet in if I ever do a complete frame off). For uppers, I was able to get a lightly used set of OEM service replacements with good ball joints and no pitting. I taped off the ball joints , removed the cross shafts and bushings and mediablasted/ primed and painted. I'll replate the original hardware with Caswell copy-cad.

Sounds like a lot of work? Yes it is. You could order rebuilt A-arms but I did this previously. For a driver these were a great time saver. BUT... they had powder coated over pitted areas and they just didn't have an original OEM look. I've ssen rebuilts for $149 per. Total $600. ($295 each if you go for riveted original style ball joints at www.corvetteusa.com) I'll have less than $200 total into mine including the purchase of the "new" uppers.

If you search previous posts, you'll find most of your quesions have already been answered. Good luck.

Jordan

[Dennis D.]

Re: C3 chassis resto

I am restoring my 69 L-46 coupe and currently have the body off the chassis. I have several questions:

1) Should I restore my own contol arms or should I buy the already restored ones? One of my lower control arms appeard all bent up near the shaft, like some yahoo wailed on it with a hammer. Should I straighten it or is it possible that it was like this at the factory? During the restore, what has to happen to the shaft? Does it need to come out? Are there bearings or seals that need to be changed? There is some pitting on the control arm and shaft. Should I use filler on this or just sand down the metal itself? Would sanding the shaft down compromise its integrity?

2) Some of my chassis hardware has become so rusted that the markings are no longer visible without considerable effort. Should I reuse them anyway for the sake of originality or should I replace them? Does anyone sell new correct hardware? Who is the best place to go to for hardware refinishing?

I will try to attach some photos of the control arms where they are bent.

Thanks in advance for your suggestions.

Mike

I would tell you this for whatever you decide. Don't through anything away.(appearing broken or not). You never know

With that said, for me it has always been that since I have to replace and search for a part ,regardless of repro'd or used, I would always try to find the period correct piece and refurbish it.

I don't think their has been any piece I eventually didn't find used and original. Just takes time. Depends on what your intentions and time constraints are. Good luck

[Joe L.]

Re: C3 chassis resto

I am restoring my 69 L-46 coupe and currently have the body off the chassis. I have several questions:

1) Should I restore my own contol arms or should I buy the already restored ones? One of my lower control arms appeard all bent up near the shaft, like some yahoo wailed on it with a hammer. Should I straighten it or is it possible that it was like this at the factory? During the restore, what has to happen to the shaft? Does it need to come out? Are there bearings or seals that need to be changed? There is some pitting on the control arm and shaft. Should I use filler on this or just sand down the metal itself? Would sanding the shaft down compromise its integrity?

2) Some of my chassis hardware has become so rusted that the markings are no longer visible without considerable effort. Should I reuse them anyway for the sake of originality or should I replace them? Does anyone sell new correct hardware? Who is the best place to go to for hardware refinishing?

I will try to attach some photos of the control arms where they are bent.

Thanks in advance for your suggestions.

Mike

Mike-----

Your a-arms were likely bent by some klutz trying to remove and replace the bushings without knowing what they were doing. I would not reuse these; I'd consider them scrap. I'd obtain reconditioned arms done by professionals like Bairs or Van Steel. There are plenty of good used pieces out there which they have available to them as cores. You could try to send them yours as cores, but I doubt they'd accept them. Then, you'd be out the shipping charges and get nothing in the way of core value. All of the 64-77 lower arms are identical. The 78-82 arms are slightly different but no one will ever be able to discern the difference on the car. So, for all practical purposes, any 64-82 lower arm will be fine.

Buying reconditioned arms from a quality source like Bairs or Van Steel will get you decent condition arms and shafts. Any ancillary hardware (i.e. bolts, nuts, bushing retainers) that's heavily corrosion damaged, I'd replace. Excellent reproduction pieces are available.

Recently, new reproduction arm assemblies, both upper and lower, complete with shafts, bushings, and riveted-on reproduction ball joints have come on the market. So, that's another option for you. It might be very expensive, though.

[Alan S.]

Re: C3 chassis resto

Hi Michael,
I want to second what Dennis pointed out...SAVE EVERYTHING...you just don't know when or why you might want to refer to or use what could have been trash. Many, many years ago, I threw away my CEC Solenoid and bracket IN the cloth bag the seat shims came in. I had put a Holley Spreadbore on so why would I EVER want those stupid parts again. So fast old, so slow wise.
Regards,
Alan

[Michael L.]

Re: C3 chassis resto

Joe,

I was able to bend them back into shape without too much difficulty. It is only one side that looks like this. The other side looks o.k. Now they are hard to tell apart. Do you really think this one needs to be junked? How are the bushings replaced? Do I have a machine shop do it? Should I restore the A-arm and then place the bushings and shafts? What did it look like from the factory. The shafts are also slightly pitted. Should I sand the metal or fill it? The excellent repro hardware- does it have proper head markings? Who is the best for replating the hardware?

Thanks for your help.

Mike

[Joe L.]

Re: C3 chassis resto

Joe,

I was able to bend them back into shape without too much difficulty. It is only one side that looks like this. The other side looks o.k. Now they are hard to tell apart. Do you really think this one needs to be junked? How are the bushings replaced? Do I have a machine shop do it? Should I restore the A-arm and then place the bushings and shafts? What did it look like from the factory. The shafts are also slightly pitted. Should I sand the metal or fill it? The excellent repro hardware- does it have proper head markings? Who is the best for replating the hardware?

Thanks for your help.

Mike

Mike-----


Part of the reason I suggested getting restored or new pieces is not only the distortion caused by the klutz. You also mentioned that the arms and the shafts were rust-pitted. In addition, the arms look like they may have been coated with POR-15 rather than painted. If so, the POR-15 is VERY difficult to remove. If it is paint, then removal will not be all that difficult.

Personally, when it comes to rust-pitted parts, especially if it's severe, I think the best plan is to replace. However, if you wish to try to restore them, I'd go with filling and sanding rather than trying to "sand out" the rust pitting. If the pitting is severe, it's already slightly compromised the integrity of the part. So, you don't want to remove further metal. I'd fill and sand ASSUMING I were going to do this, at all (which, as I mentioned previously, I don't think I would).

The same thing holds true for the shafts; I'd fill and sand rather than just sand or grind to remove pits.

The reproduction hardware has "period correct" headmarkings. It may not be the same as what you have now (assuming that what you have is original). Different headmarkings were usually seen for any fasteners; more than one source supplied them.

Plating original fasteners is going to be expensive. Most platers have a minimum charge. It's probably $200 or $300 by now, so you better have a lot of stuff to plate to make it worthwhile.

[Michael L.]

Re: C3 chassis resto

Thanks for the info, Joe. I think I will replace the one that is beat up and then fill and sand them as you suggest. Can you suggest a plater for the hardware? Can I change out the shaft and bushings or do I need a shop to do that? Is there a type of bushing that is more correct than others or can I just order any kind? What about the ball joints?

Sorry for all the questions, I just want to do this once and do it as best as I can.

Mike

[Joe L.]

Re: C3 chassis resto

Thanks for the info, Joe. I think I will replace the one that is beat up and then fill and sand them as you suggest. Can you suggest a plater for the hardware? Can I change out the shaft and bushings or do I need a shop to do that? Is there a type of bushing that is more correct than others or can I just order any kind? What about the ball joints?

Sorry for all the questions, I just want to do this once and do it as best as I can.

Mike

Michael-----


As far as platers go, your best bet is to see if you can find one locally. It's always best to "work with" the plater if you can. Otherwise, there have been several recommendations for platers that you'll probably find in the archives.

If you are skilled at automotive work, you may be able to remove and replace the bushings yourself. It's not greatly difficult, but there is a little "art" to it. The bushings can be removed with a SHARP air chisel IF you've got the touch. Installing can be done with an arbor or hydraulic press. However, you need to make up a tool to support the "ears" when the bushings are pressed in. Check the Chevrolet Service Manual for the general configuration of the tool you'll need.

The lower bushings available from GM or from most aftermarket sources are identical to the originals. The upper bushings currently available from GM and most aftermarket sources are a little different than 63-72 originals, but identical to 1973-82 originals. Reproductions of the 63-72 upper bushings are available from Corvette parts vendors.

[Michael G.]

Re: C3 chassis resto

Michael,
I've been following your posts to pick up some info myself as I have started my chassis resto from the rear. Thought I would give Joe a break and jump in with my two cents. I would suggest having the bushings pressed in at a qualified machine shop. It's not an easy task unless you have a press and the appropriate jigs. I would also be concerned about the condition of the shafts at the point of bushing contact. If there is pitting at this point, I would replace the shaft. The use of filler at this area may come back to haunt you later and if left pitted, you will probably shorten the life of your new bushing. I would wait for one of the Veteran resorers to comment on the place to aquire the best replacement bushings. As for plating, check the archives. there was some lengthly discussion not long ago about a very dissatisfied member and the recommendations from others. Good luck, Mike

[Michael L.]

Re: C3 chassis resto

Thanks to you all for your time and effort. It has been very useful.

Mike

[Greg L.]

Re: C3 chassis resto

Mike all the advice that you received is good and correct but here is another option if you have average mechanical skills.

The bushings are easy enough to take out. You can burn the rubber out if you don't mind LOTS of thick black smoke for a LONG time or you can drill the rubber out all around the inner "bushing" until the center comes out. Then carefully cut the remaining steel shell length wise to split the shell and it will come out.

To install them I bought a balljoint/U-joint installation tool and cut a piece out of it so that the shaft would slide into it.

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e232/Lintmann/P1010365-1.jpg

Installing the new bushings with this tool is a breeze once you find or make some adapters. Here is everything that I needed. Remember that you have to push on the outer shell and NOT the inner sleeve or rubber.

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e232/Lintmann/P1010364.jpg

This is it all stacked up just after I installed the last bushing.

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e232/Lintmann/P1010363.jpg

Basically the tool cost me less than what it would have cost for shipping alone to send out the four control arms never mind what the cost of restoring them would have been.

Now for plating it sounds like you might be better off getting a home plating kit like a Caswell kit. It's really not that hard if you follow the basic steps...I even managed to learn how. The initial cost may seem like a lot but the $200-$300 that Joe mentioned is PER BATCH and trust me you WILL NOT get it all in one batch...at least I couldn't...always forgot something. I sent my initial batch out for plating and then bought a small caswell kit...ya I do some things backwards. Since then I've had to fire up my kit twice and I'm getting ready to do a third and truely final batch in about a week. The convienience of being able to plate your own fasteners is priceless. You have to do all the prep work yourself anyways...the plating is the quick part.

[Mike G.]

Re: C3 chassis resto

the way i did mine is send them to bairs corvettes and let them do the rebuild. that is what they do. they make it look factory new with all the correct parts. they will putty and paint to get the pitting out or use yours as cores. call brian bair at 800-421-9644. they have been doing this for years and know how to do it right. they just did my 70 and i am real happy with the work. www.bairs.com this is the same corner of the same car

[Mike G.]

Re: C3 chassis resto

here is the before pic of the same car

[Michael L.]

Re: C3 chassis resto

Thanks for the advice mike. I couldn't resist jumping in today after Greg's tips. I drilled out the rubber and cut the metal sleeves. All the bushings are out now. Greg, I was thinking of getting a press to do this job. Can I do the ball joints with the factory rivets if I get a press? It's hard for me to tell from the pictures, Greg, but it looks like all the pressure is on the inner "ear" with your setup. I think that is how my original A-arm got bent so I'm a little nervous.

As for the plating, if I get a home system can I do the bigger items, like brake dust plates and front caliper holders? I have read on a previous post about making sure plated items are annealed or the hardware can be damaged. Does this system address this?

Thanks for your help,

Mike