c-1 windshield

**Eric E.** · April 7, 2008, 09:59 PM

Re: c-1 windshield

Hi Dave, Have you dug around in the archives on this? If memory serves correctly, I recall a series of posts that dealt with assembly and alignment issues when re-assembling C1 windshields. I haven't put mine back together yet but hopefully others with better recollection can give additoinal info.

**David H.** · April 7, 2008, 10:10 PM

Re: c-1 windshield

Thanks, Eric. I was reading some of the archives a few days ago just before I started to work on my project, and I remember seeing a post where someone commented on a "mis-sized" repro windshield. I looked again today but couldn't find the posting. I feel like that might be the case here, since the windshield I'm replacing fit really well. We'll see. Thanks again.

**Brad K.** · April 8, 2008, 08:25 PM

Re: c-1 windshield

Not sure if my problem was the same as your's or not. I've had my glass (Auto City Classic) in and out of my '59, 2 or 3 times before I got it right. The first time I put the windshield/rubber/glass together without any sealant between the rubber and the glass.......Big mistake. Later on when I was attempting to install the convertible top, the vinyl was really tight (like it should be) and I clamped down on the two clamps at the top of the windshield, lo and behold, the top of the windshield frame popped off and left a gap of about 1/2" between the glass and the rubber. I ALSO broke one of the tabs off of my windshield posts.....really pi**ed me off! I got the tab repaired and repeated the process and everything was hunky-dory. So.....in the future I will NEVER try to shortcut it by not installing sealant. I'd bet money on the fact that most of the broken windshield posts you see were broken in that manner.

Also....the sealant most installers use is really messy stuff. It's a 3M product in a white tube. I don't recall the number. It's nearly impossible to get it off your hands. So.....be sure to wear latex gloves when installing. I went around for 4 days with blackened hands! Lacquer thinner wouldn't even touch it.

**David H.** · April 8, 2008, 09:36 PM

Re: c-1 windshield

Brad, thanks for the info. I talked to Tim who supplied the windshield and explained the situation. He told me to make a paper template of the ws and then compare the ends to see if there was indeed a difference. I did that and also made a template of the ws which was being replaced...when they were laid on top of each other, the new ws was @1/2" shorter on the passenger end. I guess someone got carried away when they were buffing the edge of the glass. The good news is that he's shipping another ws at no charge...great service from Auto City Classic!
The relaced ws is a tinted PPG which was installed back in 1980.

**Richard T.** · April 9, 2008, 11:49 AM

Re: c-1 windshield

David,
I'm curious if you have the dimensions for both the good and bad windshields. This could be valuable information for members to inspect their new glass before trying an install. Rich

**David H.** · April 11, 2008, 05:32 PM

Re: c-1 windshield

Rich,
Great idea! However, I'm not quite sure as to being able to provide accurate dimensions for the windshield(s). Here's what I did....I made a hevy paper template for each windshield by laying and taping (to prevent slippage) the paper on the inside of the ws and t******* around the ws with a utility knife. The template for the "old" windshield (PPG) measured a full 65 inches tip to tip. When folded at the center, the curved ends matched each. The template for the "new" w.s. was 1/2 inch shorter (64 1/2") tip to tip. When folded on it's center; the ends also matched up with each other, BUT, the 1/2 inch difference in length of the two w.s. would cause the lower curvature of the new ws to not match the frame on the car. With the new template laying on top of the old one, the difference was very obvious and it showed up on the lower passenger side.
I'm sure that some of you more experienced folks will have better methods for checking the dimensions. I sure hope this will help out someone else.

**Michael B.** · April 12, 2008, 10:11 AM

Re: c-1 windshield

hello,I know I might be missing something but I am trying to figure out what the relation is between useing sealer and breaking winshield post tab? can you enlighten me, thanks michael

**Brad K.** · April 12, 2008, 10:21 AM

Re: c-1 windshield

Micheal.....Because the windshield glass did not have sealer around it, when the convertible top clamps pulled back on the top of the windshield, the top of the windshield frame separated from the glass and was cocked backwards. Because the bottom of the windshield was bolted down solid, the windshield post(s) were bent backwards as well, causing the windshield post tabs to be broken off. Hope this helps.....Brad

**Mike E.** · April 12, 2008, 10:37 AM

Re: c-1 windshield

My experience is that those tabs are often broken with sealer there as well. The issue is with a top that's too tight, and cranking it down, especially in cold weather. I've seen a number with broken tabs and the windshield assembly had never previously been off the car.

**Michael B.** · April 12, 2008, 12:11 PM

Re: c-1 windshield

Brad, I don't know if you have seen any of my earlier post relateing to my problems getting windshield unit back together on my 60 vette I finally got with the program and I have it together and it looks great, I didn't use sealer. I am concerned if I understand your explaination about top of windshield would it be wise to take apart top and seal and just leave bottom alone. thanks, michael

**Richard T.** · April 12, 2008, 02:18 PM

Re: c-1 windshield

I don't believe that sealer has anything to do with broken tabs or a top frame pulling away from the glass. I agree with Mike, the prime cause for broken windshield post tabs is an overly tight top that is forced into latching. This used to be due to old shrunken tops but I see many newly installed tops that are much too tight, the installers do this to eliminate wrinkles but go too far. Take a look at the Al Knock C-1 soft top installation video if you can. When he finishes the installation it takes two people to force the top into position so it can be latched. I know it looks good for show but it's not practical, one person should be able to erect and latch the top by themself. These posts are die cast zinc or pot metal and the area where the tab meets the post is the weakest which is why they break there. The repaired post with the screwed on tabs is stronger than the original part. Rich

**Michael B.** · April 13, 2008, 10:08 AM

Re: c-1 windshield

Richard, I looked in my service manual and it says to use non-hardening sealer on weatherstrip. therefore I can only deduct that(as you stated) it would not add any strenght to windshield assy. michael

**Brad K.** · April 13, 2008, 10:40 AM

Re: c-1 windshield

All I can say is that when I put the windshield together the first time w/o sealer, the assembly was still flexible. The convertible top pulled on the windshield enough that it pulled the top of the frame off the glass and broke the post. When I did it the second time using the same technique (with sealant)....it didn't break. The hardening sealant made the assembly very stiff and it didn't flex. Incidently, the sealer I used (recommended by a local installer) was 3M Windo-Weld Super Fast Urethane) part #08609.

**Michael K.** · April 14, 2008, 11:42 AM

Re: c-1 windshield

Dave,

After replacing the weatherstrip on my 57 windshield, the best advice I can give you is "to leave certain things to the professionals". What looked like a simple task, turned into a nightmare. Take it to a reputable glass shop!

c-1 windshield

c-1 windshield

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