63 Distributor Indexing
I just read with interest some of the archive threads from 2007 that were associated with my last thread regarding throttle linkages which led to proper installation/orientation of distributors. Just a couple of comments from my old carcass;
1) When I installed a Petronix II electronic kit in my distributor, I had to shim the gear to remove as much end play as was practical in order to maintain a minimum gap for the electronic sensor. In so doing, when I replaced the unit in the engine it lined up w/ the Vacumm can quit close to the manifold when the timing was set at 12 initial. I know I had the dimple positioned correctly and all the wires indexed properly. So, the only thing I could conclude was that it resulted from the shimming and perhaps was the nature of the Petronix unit. It works well.
2) From back in the day of hot rodding Chevy V8's, I developed the feel for replacing the distributor into the engine in the correct orientation and engaged with the oil pump tang. I would find the position where the distributor would engage the tang and drop down fully, then while holding (torquing) the rotor in the direction of rotation, lift up the distributor a small amount until you can jump to the next tooth, then drop it down. Continue this one tooth at a time until you have the correct orientation and you will note that you drag the oil pump tang with it. In other words, the gear will jump to the next tooth before it will disengage from the tang. Try it. You'll see it works. I would love to show you all in person. Maybe at the next meet (and I can do it fast!).
3) Another trick I learned when trying to line up timing marks (balancer to tab on timing cover); I jog the engine with the starter until it is close, then I grab the alternator/generator belt by hand (one hand above and one below the alternator) and just pull it into position by hand. It really isn't that hard and I'm not that strong. My engine is supposed to have 11.25 to 1 compression ratio too. Now then, the reason I most often find myself having to do this is to cold set my valves and, of course, with the valve covers off it is easy to tell if you are lined up with #1 or #6 and that don't matter as you will set half the valves at #1 and the other half at #6 anyway. But I would never rotate the engine by pushing the car in gear or using a bar and socket on the balancer bolt.
1) When I installed a Petronix II electronic kit in my distributor, I had to shim the gear to remove as much end play as was practical in order to maintain a minimum gap for the electronic sensor. In so doing, when I replaced the unit in the engine it lined up w/ the Vacumm can quit close to the manifold when the timing was set at 12 initial. I know I had the dimple positioned correctly and all the wires indexed properly. So, the only thing I could conclude was that it resulted from the shimming and perhaps was the nature of the Petronix unit. It works well.
2) From back in the day of hot rodding Chevy V8's, I developed the feel for replacing the distributor into the engine in the correct orientation and engaged with the oil pump tang. I would find the position where the distributor would engage the tang and drop down fully, then while holding (torquing) the rotor in the direction of rotation, lift up the distributor a small amount until you can jump to the next tooth, then drop it down. Continue this one tooth at a time until you have the correct orientation and you will note that you drag the oil pump tang with it. In other words, the gear will jump to the next tooth before it will disengage from the tang. Try it. You'll see it works. I would love to show you all in person. Maybe at the next meet (and I can do it fast!).
3) Another trick I learned when trying to line up timing marks (balancer to tab on timing cover); I jog the engine with the starter until it is close, then I grab the alternator/generator belt by hand (one hand above and one below the alternator) and just pull it into position by hand. It really isn't that hard and I'm not that strong. My engine is supposed to have 11.25 to 1 compression ratio too. Now then, the reason I most often find myself having to do this is to cold set my valves and, of course, with the valve covers off it is easy to tell if you are lined up with #1 or #6 and that don't matter as you will set half the valves at #1 and the other half at #6 anyway. But I would never rotate the engine by pushing the car in gear or using a bar and socket on the balancer bolt.
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