'67 Carb Spring Bracket and Temp Sending Unit

[Kirk M.]

I've been going over many of the details in the JG and read where the carb return spring is cad/zinc plated but painted engine color for base engines. Since I own a 327/300 hp base engine, I assume mine should be orange, which it is not. Question 1 - is that correct? Second, I tried to remove the bracket but the temp sending unit was in the way of removing one of the screws. I assume I can just unplug and unscrew the temp sending unit. Question 2 - is that correct? Finally, when I loosened the two screws trying to take the bracket off, some oil leaked from around the manifold base at that point. Made me think I should pick up some spare bolts so I can detail and repaint the two bolts while repainting the bracket. When I went to order some from Corvette Central, I noticed that they list 1967 base intake manifold bolts as being "black" rather than "silver". Mine currently on the car are "silver" and then painted orange. Question 3 - are the bolts suppose to black and then painted orange on a base 327/300 horse engine? Finally, my car is an automatic. So, I have two lime-green springs attached to the carb, both of which run back towards the firewall. Question 4 - Am I also suppose to have the black phosphate spring that runs forward to the bracket?

1. Is the carb spring bracket on a '67 327/300hp car suppose to be painted orange?

2. Can I just unscrew the temp sending unit without and repercussions to get the bolt off?

3. Are the intake manifold bolts on a '67 327/300hp engine suppose to be black painted orange or is silver ok?

4. Does a PG automatic car have the forward black phosphate carb spring?

Thanks.

[Joseph T.]

Re: '67 Carb Spring Bracket and Temp Sending Unit

1. Yes, Orange on base engine 327/300HP.

2. Yes, however try to access the bolt with an offset wrench. Its a bear but it can be done.

3. Silver Cad , however the bolts are painted orange w/ the intake and the bracket so it doesnt matter. What headmarking does it have?

4. I dont think so.

Suggestion: Wire wheel bolts, clean w/thinner for paint adhesion, Paint the bracket orange . Install bracket . Spray bolts orange. (Mask surrounding area with a old bed sheet to eliminate any overspray. It works great.) Good Luck

[Gerard F.]

Re: '67 Carb Spring Bracket and Temp Sending Unit

Kirk,

On the 67 Carb Spring Bracket, they say that it was painted with the engine on the base engine 327/300, so it is correct by the JG that it be engine orange.

However, it wasn't painted on my 67 327/300 when I repainted the top of the engine for the first time a few years ago. I brought the same subject up,and the above is what I was told.

When I took it off and cleaned it up for refinishing, I found it to be weathered zinc plating with just a few splashes of paint on it. The splashes of paint were not remnants of it being at one time painted, but looked more like the bracket was loosely covered over, and someone slopped drips of paint on the bracket in painting the bolts and surrounding area. Wish I had taken pictures of it at that time for documentation.

So regardless of the JG and advice that I received at the time, I refinished the bracket as I found it, unpainted with a zinc finish. I don't care about the points, that's the way I found it.

So do me a favor, if your bracket is unpainted, take some photos of it after you clean it up, and before you conform it to the JG.

[Kirk M.]

Re: '67 Carb Spring Bracket and Temp Sending Unit

Jerry,

Mine, unfortunately, looks like a shiny replacement rather than an original piece to the car. I will however take a careful look at and make sure. I've never quite understood why if exceptions have been noted by reputable members that this simply can't be included in the JG. Then again, that might make it a hundred pages longer once all the exceptions are included. Maybe a better response is what you did, leave the way you found it! Seems silly to "fake" something just to make it original! Thanks as always for your informative answers.

[Gerard F.]

Here's another

Kirk,

This thread in the archives might also apply to your car, who knows:

https://www.forums.ncrs.org/showthre...05710&uid=6361

If you think something is an original part, try restoring it and putting it back on, even if you might take some condition points. If unrestorable, bag and tag it.

I'm one of those nuts who saves everything. Anybody else have their original seat covers, brake caliphers, every removed bolt stored in the garage? Almost saved the exhaust pipes, but salvaged the heat shields and heat riser which are back on the car.

[Kirk M.]

Re: '67 Carb Spring Bracket and Temp Sending Unit

Jerry,

I'm exactly the same way. I have kept every single item down to nuts and bolts that I have removed. Even the early '70's replacement parts that had been put on the car. What the heck, in 20 years I'll probably make someone's day by telling them I have their '70's part that they have been looking for. Plus I'm always worried I'll throw the wrong thing away.

Kirk

[Stuart F.]

Re: '67 Carb Spring Bracket and Temp Sending Unit

Over the years we have moved a number of times and the last one I finally gave away or discarded a lot of my old 63 stuff, and I regret it to this day. I have spent days upon days looking for certain things in my garage, unwilling to concede that I may have discarded them. Most recently, I deceided to rehab my original AFB and I went looking for the two donor carbs I used to have. When you look at the cost of a new repro choke cover and spring, then realize you probably pitched two perfectly good ones - ouch!

Stu Fox

[Joe R.]

Re: '67 Carb Spring Bracket and Temp Sending Unit

Hi Kirk:

It looks like most of your questions have been answered by others. I have just a few comments to add:

1) Don't unscrew the temp sender with the cooling system full, or you will have a mess. In my experience the sender could stay in place (just barely) when I removed the manifold bolts.

2) On a Powerglide car, the "correct" configuration is just the two lime green springs, one for the throttle and one for the kick-down linkage. There should be no spring in front tied to the spring bracket that was used for manual transmission cars.

3) The spring bracket was still installed on PG cars and was usually painted orange. Even though the factory did not install a spring in this location, many owners, including myself, have installed the standard, front-mounted spring that was used for the manual transmission cars. This spring provides much better throttle return than the wimpy lime green spring behind the carburetor (which I remove when I install the front spring). I only install the "correct" configuration for judging.

4) Make sure that the spring bracket you have is not a stainless steel (non-magnetic) repro. I figured that since the bracket was painted, no one would know it was stainless, so I replaced my damaged original with a stainless repro. At the 2007 National, a judge with a magnet dinged me a point for the stainless bracket.

[Kirk M.]

Re: '67 Carb Spring Bracket and Temp Sending Unit

Hi Kirk:

It looks like most of your questions have been answered by others. I have just a few comments to add:

1) Don't unscrew the temp sender with the cooling system full, or you will have a mess. In my experience the sender could stay in place (just barely) when I removed the manifold bolts.

2) On a Powerglide car, the "correct" configuration is just the two lime green springs, one for the throttle and one for the kick-down linkage. There should be no spring in front tied to the spring bracket that was used for manual transmission cars.

3) The spring bracket was still installed on PG cars and was usually painted orange. Even though the factory did not install a spring in this location, many owners, including myself, have installed the standard, front-mounted spring that was used for the manual transmission cars. This spring provides much better throttle return than the wimpy lime green spring behind the carburetor (which I remove when I install the front spring). I only install the "correct" configuration for judging.

4) Make sure that the spring bracket you have is not a stainless steel (non-magnetic) repro. I figured that since the bracket was painted, no one would know it was stainless, so I replaced my damaged original with a stainless repro. At the 2007 National, a judge with a magnet dinged me a point for the stainless bracket.

Joe,

Are you saying then that I need to drain the radiator before unscrewing the temp sending unit? Drain it completely, or just remove some to drop it below the temp sending unit? You are the first to mention that. Thanks.

Kirk

[Brian M.]

Re: '67 Carb Spring Bracket and Temp Sending Unit

Just remove a gal. or so and you wont have a mess.

Joe,

Are you saying then that I need to drain the radiator before unscrewing the temp sending unit? Drain it completely, or just remove some to drop it below the temp sending unit? You are the first to mention that. Thanks.

Kirk

[Stuart F.]

Re: '67 Carb Spring Bracket and Temp Sending Unit

Really! I thought about mentioning it on the first day of your thread (draining coolant b4 removing temp sensor), but I thought you were kidding or pulling our collective leg. Be careful even taking out one of the manifold bolts bracketing the water manifold on either side of the manifold. Sometimes if the gasket seal isn't sound, you may see a little coolant seapage there as well. I've had that happen before. It shouldn't, but it does, specially if some commando has been messing around with it before changing manifolds.

Stu Fox

[Joe R.]

Re: '67 Carb Spring Bracket and Temp Sending Unit

Hi Kirk:

Yes, you should remove some coolant. I would be inclined to drain the coolant down below the level of the intake manifold, so that there is no water up against the intake gasket when you remove those two bolts. You could get some water into the lifter valley or the intake ports.

By the way, is all of this effort just so you can paint the bracket? I'd leave it in place for that. Just be sure to mask off the temp sender and everyting else in the area.