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Re: '62 Overheating?
David,
From you description of the engine temperature I think the sender is your problem. I have the same problem with my 63 300HP car and on a hot day the temperature guage goes near the last number, (I think it's 240) but I know the engine is not that hot. If the thermal gun is showing 190 then it's running fine.
The engine oil pressure is too high if it's reading 45 at idle, how high does the pressure get when driving? Can you find out if the oil pump is a high pressure pump from the rebuilder, if so that is not correct for your car and could be the reason for the leaks you are experencing. Correct oil pressure for our cars should be 40-45 at 2000 RPM and the pump relief is 45 PSI. -
Re: '62 Overheating?
Well, that sounds good about the temp. Now to find an accurate or at least, very near accurate sending unit.
Before the engine was rebuilt, it had a big block pump in it according the the rebuilder. I of course told him I didn't want that because the oil pressure was so high. So he out in a "stock" pump. When the engine was first started the first few times, the guage would show 60lbs. I called him and he said that was normal, until there was a little time on the engine. Now it is idling at about 45lbs. and going down the road at the same pressure. I cannot tell you what the RPM is, the rebuilt tach
is reading about 1/2 speed, so idle is around 1200. I can't tell you how fast the car is going, because the speedo is not working either. (all guages restored/rebuilt)With cable driving the speedo with a drill, it works fine. But we don't know why it doesn't work when it is hooked to the trans. yet.
We did put in a new gear into the trans for the 3.36 rear end. Previous gear in the trans was a natural colored gear.
This is getting to be a test!Comment
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Re: '62 Overheating?
David,
If the transmission is T-10 and came from a car with 4.11 or numerically higher rear ratio the drive gear in the transmission is different diameter. That could be your problem but if you check archives, there is discussion about speedo drive gear and rear axle ratio.
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Re: '62 Overheating?
I was praying, you would not say it was in the trans. How many times are the bolts good for, before they are wore out? I am about wore out myself. Any clues on who has the correct or working temp. sending unit for the temp. guage?Comment
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Re: '62 Overheating?
David, I can't help on the sending unit as I need one myself. Check with a transmission man about the speedo drive gear to find out for sure. Is the transmission a T-10 and is it close ratio or wide ratio?Comment
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Re: '62 Overheating?
As a note....If the engine is running at a correct temperature and the guage reads high, a variable resistor can be installed in line with your temp. wire.Comment
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Re: '62 Overheating?
A couple of things bother me here...
First, you say there's no hood on the car. If you're idling the engine for PROLONGED periods of time (vs. driving), you're taxing the fan/fan clutch. And, with the hood open or no hood installed, air flow through the radiator is being allowed to 'escape' (up and out) instead of flowing in its intended path (bath the exterior of the engine).
Second, you CAN expect a freshly rebuilt engine to exhibit higher than normal oil pressure as well as coolant temperature until you've logged some miles on and achieved initial wear in. This is especially true if your machinest took pride in his work and held tighter than factory normal (sloppy) tolerances.
Third, you say your IR gun somehow shows you the thermostat is opening/closing. I don't get it. How does that happen? The thermostat should reach it's pop point temperature, open and stay open until the engine shuts off and cools down. So, I don't understand how an IR temp gun can show you the thermostat is opening and closing with the engine running and warmed up....
Last, I wouldn't worry about what the temp guage reads right now. I know you're nervous about having a freshly rebuilt engine that you've poured big $$$ and time into, but go get the car through its wear in stage before you sweat a temp guage difference of 10-15 degrees. The fact that car-in-motion readings are showing you 180-190F, tells me everything is OK.
You'll know when there's a bona fide overheat problem! The rad cap will pop and you'll dump coolant. SHUT ER DOWN! I suspect that isn't going to happen, from what you've said so far.
The factory original temp senders weren't all that accurate to start with (within 15 degrees) as they simply replaced the 'idiot' light used on traditional passenger cars/trucks. Plus, actual readings are a function of battery charge state and the early generator based cars are notorious for the charging system needing to be run at/above the generator's 'cut in' threshold (typically +1500 RPM) versus an alternator based system.Comment
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Re: '62 Overheating?
Dennis great thought. I would never have thought of the variable resistor. I would assume with the IR gun, you could then set the resistor to match it. I had thought about sending my temp. guage in with my needed to be recalibrated tach. and have it adjusted to the sending unit I have.
Jack, you do make a good point. But, you can see it on the gun, I don't know what else to say. I did mention about the hood being off yet, in case those that caught that, you would guestion that as well. So far have not had any issues with it dumping coolant. Funny thing is you can get right into adjusting things and unless you are doing something silly, it is not even uncomfortably hot, in the engine bay.
Timothy, it is a T10 trans and it is a close ratio. Dated to the car with a mid Aug. 61 build date.Comment
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Re: '62 Overheating?
David, If the transmission is close ratio then it is possible it came from a high numerically gear ratio car (4.11-4.56) and the drive gear in the transmission is the wrong size for a blue 3.36 driven gear. I don't know for sure but this may be the problem with speedometer. Did the speedometer register with the old gear?
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Re: '62 Overheating?
Hi Dave Sounds like your tach reading problem is a generator driven tach running off a distributor. Don't give up.Well, that sounds good about the temp. Now to find an accurate or at least, very near accurate sending unit.
Before the engine was rebuilt, it had a big block pump in it according the the rebuilder. I of course told him I didn't want that because the oil pressure was so high. So he out in a "stock" pump. When the engine was first started the first few times, the guage would show 60lbs. I called him and he said that was normal, until there was a little time on the engine. Now it is idling at about 45lbs. and going down the road at the same pressure. I cannot tell you what the RPM is, the rebuilt tach is reading about 1/2 speed, so idle is around 1200. I can't tell you how fast the car is going, because the speedo is not working either. (all guages restored/rebuilt)With cable driving the speedo with a drill, it works fine. But we don't know why it doesn't work when it is hooked to the trans. yet. We did put in a new gear into the trans for the 3.36 rear end. Previous gear in the trans was a natural colored gear.
This is getting to be a test!Comment
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Re: '62 Overheating?
Don't know if the trans. worked with the old gear or not. This car was originally a 3 sp. from the factory. Someone installed a '59 trans. in it and I went on a search to find the at least correctly dated 4sp. I now also have a correctly dated 3sp. as well, but you can guess what I would rather drive, so the 4 sp. is what I put in the car.
Yes, I called the rebuilder/restorer about the tach. He said that is what happened as well and he would fix me up pronto, when I send it back. It is the original tach to the car, as all guages are, I just had them restored. I only wish he would come and take the dash apart as well also. I will do all this after a period of shake down so that I can check for other issues, that need to be attended to. It appears as if I should be driving next weekend.
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'62 Overheating?
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