Blasting material

[Charles B.]

I found only a single article in the archives referencing blasting material for the frame. That writer recommended 000 sand on the frame. Now that I think about it, possibly someone else mentioned "beads." I am ready to blast the frame and parts. Specifically, what "beads" are recommended? Does anyone have any experience with "brown aluminum oxide?" Shoud the same material be used on the frame and the parts? Are there some parts that should be cleaned using a different method? Are there other questions that I should be asking? I have been a member less than 2 weeks and have found everyone's suggestions to be tremendously helpful. Thanks to you I am "patiently" trying to get the undercoating off the stencil!!

[Chuck S.]

Re: Blasting material

I just sent you a PM on blasting materials.

Aluminum oxide is too aggressive in my opinion. As I said, glass beads are ideal for surface prep, but will be a little slow for commercial blasters. Most shops that do contract blasting won't use glass beads...they'll use what they call "washed river sand", but I wouldn't know what grade.

Glass beads are graded, and even have Mil Spec classifications, but I can't remember what grade I normally use.

[David D.]

Re: Blasting material

Check out "Soda" Blasting.....Below is an example, check out Automotive section.

http://www.stewartspecialtyservices.com/

Good Luck,
David

[Stephen L.]

Re: Blasting material

Sand blasting noticably changes the surface of the metal. Glass beads leave the surface close to original as they are not as aggressive.

Having said that, if you have heavy rust then surface texture wouldn't be a concern as the rust has already done the job on the metal and sand would work faster... materials would also be cheaper. #60 Glass beads are about $45/bag last time I bought some. Play sand at LOWES is about $5/bag.

If the parts are in good shape and just need the paint removed, use beads

[Jordan S.]

Re: Blasting material

Do not use sand. There is a risk of developing Silicosis which is an irreversible lung disease. I have used "black magnum" on my rust chasis parts with great success. It does change surface texture but as stated previously, not a problem with rusty parts. http://www.consolidatedstripping.com...ackmagnum.html

Parts that only require paint removal can be blasted with glass bead which does not etch as much and leaves a smoother suface finish.

Always wear proper respiratory and eye protection when blasting.

[Michael L.]

Re: Blasting material

I used a product called Black Diamond, it comes in various grits. It cuts much faster than sand and is low in dust. Sand poses health issues mentioned above. The product is a residue from boilers, I'd imagine shipping is probably as much as the product in cost now... Realize, you are probably not going to be able to capture the sprayed product, so plan on a bunch of media. That is the one advantage to sand, it is cheap and plentiful, but bad for lungs if you don't have a good respirator and hood. Most sandblasters use a fresh air system to avoid lung problems, also expensive.

[Harmon C.]

Re: Blasting material

I have a two stage 5 HP compressor and did one frame that took 10 hours. I would have the frame blasted by someone in that business. Frames that have heavy rust the type of material used won't matter. The job took to long for me to do a frame again. I take all the big parts and get them blasted at the same time and tell the blaster to get most of the rust off the parts and I will finish them in my cabinet before painting.

[David D.]

Re: Blasting material

I would have the frame blasted by someone in that business.

I agree.

The nice part that I have learned about 'Soda' Blasting is that there are more and more people that have mobile units. They come to your place. NICE

The other great part with 'Soda' Blasting is that it is environmentally friendly and washes away with simple water (i.e. Hose or Rain).

David