Installing an Engine in a C1

[Christopher R.]

At long last, I believe I'll be installing the engine back in my '62 in the next few weeks. The transmission will go in with the engine and it'll be installed as an assembly. Trying to decide what should and should not be installed before the engine goes in so as to ease the installation. I've decided on the engine mounts, shifter, fuel pump, oil filter, exhaust manifolds, and dipstick tube. How about the starter?

Does the starter get in the way? Is it better to install the starter after the engine is in?

[Bruce B.]

Re: Installing an Engine in a C1

I don't believe you can install the engine -transmission assembly with the shifter on the transmission.
I think the rest of the accessories will be ok.

[Bruce B.]

Re: Installing an Engine in a C1

I don't believe you can install the engine -transmission assembly with the shifter on the transmission.
I think the rest of the accessories will be ok.

Woops, I read your post wrong.

[Don H.]

Re: Installing an Engine in a C1

Christopher,
I am assuming this is a complete car not frame only. I did it again last summer, I would have engine mount behind the water pump. I would not have any of the other things you named, they can just get in the way. I did mine by myself but it was almost a disaster, not recommended!
Don H.

[Dennis C.]

Installing an Engine in a C1

My way... By myself.

No starter.
No shifter.
No front frame motor mounts.
No fuel pump.
No engine pulleys.
No distributor.
No oil filter.
No radiator (of course).

Yes transmission.
Yes bellhouse dust covers.
Yes exhaust manifolds.
Yes front cross mount.
Yes water pump.
Yes oil pan plug wire clips s/b in place (orange)
Yes dipstick tube after orange paint

Optional:

Yes spark plugs.
Yes plug boot heat shields.
Yes plug wires & route clips & brackets.

If you follow this, you assemble, paint as they did, add a couple items and put the engine/trans in place. Works for me every time. Good luck. Best, Dennis

[Richard P.]

Re: Installing an Engine in a C1

I agree with Dennis. Some of those "no" items will physically clear during installation but are less trouble to install after the engine/trans is in the car.

[Dennis C.]

Installing an Engine in a C1

Yikes !!! I failed to mention the road draft tube - and the reason: I have been fitting my cars with factory optional PCV system, so just hook that up after engine install. If I were using a road draft system, I'd probably put it on after install, anyway. Good luck, Dennis

[Dennis C.]

Installing an Engine in a C1

And while I'm about it, by choice I would never choose to install an engine without the aid of one of those engine tilt things. Very helpful. And, install the shifter & speedo cable before you add the transmission cross mount with spacers. Lots easier.

[Christopher R.]

Re: Installing an Engine in a C1

Thanks Dennis. Now I've gotta go take off the harmonic balancer pulley and oil filter.

I'm surprised the dipstick tube, spark plugs, and the spark plug heat shields are not in the way.

BTW, the shifter can go on because it's a Hurst shifter with the detachable stick.

[Mike B.]

Re: Installing an Engine in a C1

The dipstick tube clears without any problem and it is a heck of a lot easier to set in place outside of the engine bay then when in place. Use the exhaust manifold to line up the tube between the cast in ears then remove the manifold before installing the engine.

Also don't put any oil in the engine beyond assembly lube 'cause it can run in and out of the wrong places when it is tilted in place. Absolutely use an engine tilting device along with the hoist as Dennis suggests. Also be sure to plug the end of the transmission tailpiece with a $1 device designed for that purpose or you will have smelly gear oil everywhere you don't want it at exactly the wrong time as it is dangling over your engine bay! And with the car on all fours, the tailpiece will just clear the floor as the engine is dropped in. It is helpful to have a trusted but expendable assistant on the floor to help guide the tailpiece end in place. Failing that place a large piece of cardboard there that will slide along the floor as the works are lowered.

And after you set the engine get ready to struggle a bit setting the fuel pump. To make it easier, hold the pushrod in place by inserting a longer bolt in the front boss otherwise it wants to fall out by gravity. Install the pump making sure the lever contacts the pushrod, then be sure to replace the bolt with its shorter bretheren.

Good luck and have fun!

Mike

[Mike B.]

Re: Installing an Engine in a C1

Chris,

Come to think of it, you can leave the exhaust manifolds in place. I think you can leave the balancer on too since you already have it pressed on. That is an interference fit (even if equpped with a center bolt) so I am always leary as to how many times it can come on and off without losing its integrity. But of course the pulleys can be damaged, especially the crank pulley so no pre mounting on those.

Also key as Dennis points out, is to mount the water pump and front engine mount outside of the car before there is any weight on those components. Even with guide studs it can be a bear to mount all of those parts in the car and get everything to line up without leaks or messy gobs of sealer. It is so much easier to do while on the engine stand. Better to remove the mounts bolted into the frame for clearance.

One last note: In my experience the engine hoist boom (non Chinese) had to be extened out to its farthest setting to clear the front of the car making things a bit tippy. The hoist lower section actually rested right against the front license plate bracket. I used a piece of plywood to protect it. If you want a bit more breathing room, first drop the entire front license plate bracket and arms where they mount to the underside of the frame. And take my word for it; when that engine and tranny assembly is dangling over the front of your car there are some real a** puckering moments until everything clears and drops into that comforting cavity in the engine bay!

Mike

[Robert S.]

Re: Installing an Engine in a C1

I agree mostly with Dennis, however, you cannot pay me enough to try to install a fuel pump with the engine in the bay. Do it outside, it is still hard enough. When I installed my engine/trans, I had the front wheels on ramps. The engine has to go much higher, but the extra clearance is wonderful. My engine had a Richmond Six-speed mounted to the motor with the shifter (semi-stock 60 shifter) installed and adjusted on the trans. With a non-removable handle. Done this once with friends and three times solo. Guess my French isn't very good. Also, watch out for the clutch linkage especially if using the Godzilla spring.

[Christopher R.]

Re: Installing an Engine in a C1

Thank you again, gentlemen. This is the kind of information that's invaluable.

I learned the hard way about the transmission plug when I first did this many years ago. Since then, I've seen many vendors at swap meets selling these plugs for $1.00. I felt like buying 10 of them to make sure I had 1.

Didn't know about the engine oil and the dipstick tube. Forgot all about lining up the tube with the exhaust manifold. I'm not going to put the exhaust manifolds on because I've got the front header exhaust pipes already in place, and I don't want to remove them and upset the careful alignment of the pipes.

In the past, I've replaced the fuel pump with the engine in the car. Much cursing. My neighbors will make me move if I do that again. My plan for the fuel pump (and the engine mounts on the frame) is to first get the engine mostly in place, and then to raise it slightly while it's still on the hoist.

I can't figure out what the AIM means by the engine alignment procedure. Do you know what that is?

[John H.]

Re: Installing an Engine in a C1

I can't figure out what the AIM means by the engine alignment procedure. Do you know what that is?

Chris -

That's an Engineering procedure that was intended to ensure that the rubber mount cushions aren't displaced/stressed laterally; hardly ever is an issue. If the through-bolts align with the holes in the cross-mount, that's all you need.

[John H.]

Re: Installing an Engine in a C1

One last note: In my experience the engine hoist boom (non Chinese) had to be extened out to its farthest setting to clear the front of the car making things a bit tippy. The hoist lower section actually rested right against the front license plate bracket. I used a piece of plywood to protect it. Mike

I normally put the car on jackstands, about 10"-12" off the floor, remove the left front wheel, and bring the hoist in from the side; I find it much easier than trying to maneuver everything from over the nose.