c1 crankshaft/damper fit

[Howard M.]

How much interference is there between the crankshaft (p/n 3815822) snout and the damper(p/n 3896904) during installation. Should the damper be heated to make installation easier.
Thanks

[Ray G.]

Re: c1 crankshaft/damper fit

Hello;
If you have a method to heat without damaging the insulating rubber, yes.
(Boiling hot water).
If your crankshaft has the threaded center hole the preferred method is to pull/draw the torsional damper onto the crankshaft. There is tool for this, but it can be done with a fine thread rod & nut. 7/16" - 20 if I remember correctly.
There are also a Kent-Moore installation tools to drive the damper onto the crankshaft. Basically it holds the inertia weight part of the damper.
Experience shows using heat allows the damper to be driven on w/ a soft hammer or hammer against a block of wood (2"x4") without using excessive force.
Hope this helps.
Ray

[Clem Z.]

Re: c1 crankshaft/damper fit

do not heat the damper hub too hot as you could damage the seal in the timing gear cover.

[Bruce B.]

Re: c1 crankshaft/damper fit

A crankshaft installation/removal tool is a must.
It is a safe secure way to install and/or remove the balancer.
Well worth the small price to purchase one.

[Ray G.]

Re: c1 crankshaft/damper fit

Hello again;

Forgot to mention lubricating the timing cover seal lip riding on the damper. Often forgotten. Engine temps in that area easily run over 200 degrees.

Hope this helps.

Ray

[Clem Z.]

Re: c1 crankshaft/damper fit

A crankshaft installation/removal tool is a must.
It is a safe secure way to install and/or remove the balancer.
Well worth the small price to purchase one.

they only work if the crankshaft snout has the threaded hole in the end when used to install the damper. if you have the engine on a engine stand wedge the rear of the crankshaft to the engine stand so the force is not applied to the rear thrust bearing if you have to used the block of wood and hammer method. also using never seize on the crank snout is a good idea to make it go on easier. a lead or babbit hammer is the best way to install if you don't have the threaded hole in the end of the crank.

[Jim T.]

Re: c1 crankshaft/damper fit

Howard this will not be much help for you, however back in 1968 I rebuilt my 327/300 in my 64 Corvette. I installed a new 3896904 damper. Still inexperienced having only rebuilt one other engine (348) I did not have the tools recommended by Clem and used what I had to install my damper. I did slightly distort the front of the damper slightly getting it on, it was an interference fit. There was no retaining bolt for my damper with my 64 327/300.
The rest of the story, my installation did not last. The damper came loose shortly after getting my 64 on the road, but did not come all the way off. I took my car to the local Chev dealership and the mechanic installed another damper. He told me I had installed the wrong one. I later drove the 64 from the west coast to east coast with no problems. The mechanic returned the one I installed that I have kept all these years.

[Howard M.]

Re: c1 crankshaft/damper fit

Thanks to all. I used the puller tool and finally got the damper off. I will borrow the correct tooling to reinstall it. Fortunately, the crank that was installed when the engine was rebuilt for the previous owner has the threaded hole that will make reinstallation a lot easier. I don't like hammering on things to make them fit. I will probably heat the damper in hot water to boiling temp to expand the bore as much as possible.