1959 Corvette Camshaft replacement help

[Richard J.]

Hello all...

I have to change a camshaft in a 1959 270hp car and want to know if this is possible w/o removing the engine??? The car is a fresh restoration and a high-point car. The cam is wrong for PV and has to be changed. The car is nice enough that I am considering pulling the body off so it does not get damaged by working over the fenders? Any and all advise is very welcome. If I do pull the body does anyone have a hint on what I do with the steering box and the best way to keep the car as complete as possible to keep the amount of work to a minimum.

Best regards to all,
Rick

[Richard H.]

Re: 1959 Corvette Camshaft replacement help

Rick,
You do not need to remove the engine to replace the camshaft. The engine must be unbolted from the engine support (water pump removed), raised with a jack placed underneath the block, and supported from underneath for security with cut-to-fit lumber. Since the engine only needs to be minimally raised to the level where you can access the camshaft to pull and replace it, I did not have to loosen the bolts securing the transmission to the engine.
Richard

[Mike B.]

Re: 1959 Corvette Camshaft replacement help

Rick,

There are high quality fender covers available that will protect the car when working over it. I think the odds are higher of creating damage pulling the body off versus carefully working over and under the car.

A few more suggestions:

Make sure that you position the #1 cylinder at top dead center. Confirm this by removing the LH valve cover. Both valves of the #1 cylinder (front most) should be closed, the timing mark should be on or near 0, and the distributor rotor should be pointing to the #1 spark plug wire tower. Then don't rotate the engine again until the job is complete.

Since you will have the coolant drained anyway, pull the upper shroud and radiator which will give you a lot more room to move the cam in and out and prevent possible damage. You might also want to remove the hood too, but first apply painters tape to the hinges and hood and make alignment marks before loosening the bolts so you can get it back close during reassembly.

You will have to remove and replace the lifters. That requires removal of the intake manifold. Be sure to have the correct gasket set on hand. The originals had telltale tabs that judges look for. Paragon and others sell it in repro. Also review the archives on how to properly apply sealer, especially at the four corners where the manifold meets the heads. When removing any of the parts that will be replaced such as manifold bolts and pushrods, it is a good idea to insert them into perforated cardboard or some other means to retain the order and relative placement.

The harmonic balancer will need to be removed. Use a correct puller. This is a good time to consider a repair sleeve for the balancer neck if a worn groove is evident. You should also replace the timing cover seal at this time too. Use care when replacing the balancer as the old style needs to be carefully hammered on since the crankshaft snout is not drilled for a center bolt. Be sure to use a piece of wood when tapping it back on to prevent hammer marks. It should go back on with some resistance. If it slips on too easily, you must replace it as it can't be repaired.

You will also have to remove or at least drop the front of the oil pan to get the timing cover off as there is a sealing lip that is integral to the cover. This can be a little dicey as the engine is unsupported since the front motor mount has to be removed. As suggested above, carefully fabricate additional supports to both bear the front of the engine and allow removal of the oil pan. You can also reinstall the motor mount after the water pump has been removed for an added measure of safety. It is best to use different bolts and some large washers and nuts for spacers of the approximate water pump thickness. And when reinstalling the oil pan, note that two different size curved seals were used so be sure to match up the old with the new. Again, there is a lot in the archives about this.

When reinstalling the water pump, the odds of a better seal occur if you assemble the pump, motor mount and four sandwich gaskets to the engine when it is NOT bearing the weight of the engine. That means again supporting the engine from below while doing this assembly. Use a good quality silicone gasket sealer and let it skin over slightly before torquing down the bolts.



Then install the lifters (never reuse the old ones with a new cam), Again be sure to use assembly lube and you can also pour some oil on the works at the bottom of the lifter gallery.

Get a small block Chevy engine building book or check the archives for tips such as adjusting the rocker arms and reinstalling the distributor back to the correct index.

Good luck!
Mike

[John H.]

Re: 1959 Corvette Camshaft replacement help

You'll also have to remove the fuel pump, mounting plate, and the fuel pump pushrod.

[Roger W.]

Re: 1959 Corvette Camshaft replacement help

I have to ask a dumb question. What does "PV" mean? = "The cam is wrong for PV and has to be changed."

[John T.]

Re: 1959 Corvette Camshaft replacement help

PV = performance verification. The engine should have the original type cam in order to pass the test.

John

[John D.]

Re: 1959 Corvette Camshaft replacement help

Hi John, How many times my old FI customers have pulled a boner and had the incorrect cam installed only to find out later that there pride and joy won't idle below 1200 RPM. Makes me cringe when I get that call. Take care, John D.

[Roger W.]

Re: 1959 Corvette Camshaft replacement help

PV = performance verification. The engine should have the original type cam in order to pass the test.

John

Thanks for the info. Is there a noticable differance of the idle speed from the cam that you have in the engine now to the stock specification?

[Duke W.]

Re: 1959 Corvette Camshaft replacement help

Hello all...

I have to change a camshaft in a 1959 270hp car and want to know if this is possible w/o removing the engine??? The car is a fresh restoration and a high-point car. The cam is wrong for PV and has to be changed. The car is nice enough that I am considering pulling the body off so it does not get damaged by working over the fenders? Any and all advise is very welcome. If I do pull the body does anyone have a hint on what I do with the steering box and the best way to keep the car as complete as possible to keep the amount of work to a minimum.

Best regards to all,
Rick

What cam is currently installed? Mfg.? Part number? Specs?