crank shaft transmission bushing

[Terry K.]

One of the old guys at the parts store I frequent suggested packing the cavity with wheel bearing grease, and a tight fitting dowel rod. Then smack the dowel rod with a hammer which will create sufficient hydraulic pressure to push the bushing out. Will this work?
Any other suggestions?
Thanks

[Dana M.]

Re: crank shaft transmission bushing

Pack with THICK wheel bearing grease, you probably could use a dowel but most use a old transmission input shaft with the same size pilot end.Then nail it with a hammer.Works 99% of the time, unless the hole in the bushing is way over size.

[John H.]

Re: crank shaft transmission bushing

Play-Doh is lots less messy than grease. Or, run a 5/8" tap through it, then put a 5/8" bolt in it and run it down - keep turning it after it hits the back of the crank, and the bushing will come right out.

Make sure your replacement bushing isn't magnetic - lots of counterfeit Chinese bushings out there with mostly iron in them instead of Oilite bronze.

[Ray G.]

Re: crank shaft transmission bushing

Hello Terry;
Check the archives, there has been posts about the correct size(s) of the pilot bushing.
Ray

[Joe L.]

Re: crank shaft transmission bushing

One of the old guys at the parts store I frequent suggested packing the cavity with wheel bearing grease, and a tight fitting dowel rod. Then smack the dowel rod with a hammer which will create sufficient hydraulic pressure to push the bushing out. Will this work?
Any other suggestions?
Thanks

Terry------


Use GM #10125896 or the below-pictured Federal-Mogul piece. They are probably exactly the same.

[Terry K.]

Re: crank shaft transmission bushing

John:
The 5/8th inch tap worked GREAT!!!! Took all of 2 minutes and it was out!
It is pretty amazing that you guys are so willing to share all the tricks of the trade that you have experienced over the years!
I have to tell you that I was real intrigued by the thick wheel bearing grease (or Playdough) suggestion. I am supposed to be a mechanical engineer by trade (although I do not seem to do much engineering), so that technique sounded like something I wanted to try. But I need to get this vehicle back on the raod and the 5/8th tap sounded quicker.
Ray & Joe:
Thanks for the info on the replacement bushing. The one that came with the clutch/pressure plate kit looks to be OK. Per John's suggestion, I checked if with a magnet and it appears to be non-magnetic.
I don't know if I am just too old to be trained as a computer jock or what, but I struggle with using the archives. I either get 60,000 hits, or none. What is it they say about old dogs and new tricks? Thanks again for the GREAT info!

[Terry K.]

Re: crank shaft transmission bushing

Just a quick followup on the pilot bushings. I read in the archive a lot of talk about them. So in case anyone is keeping data, I measured the OD of the one I removed and it was 1.092”.

I bought one from Show-cars.com as their part # 3190 a while ago in anticipation of this project. It is very magnetic, the OD is 1.097” and the ID is .591”.

The Borg & Beck clutch super kit I bought came with a pilot bearing. It is non-magnetic - also very bronze copperish in color. The OD is 1.094” and the ID is .592”.

On a slightlty related topic, is there any place I can read up on how to refresh the 4 speed linkage? It is very very rusty. I have wire brushed it and am going to primer and paint - just to keep it from rusting more. Looks like much of it was origionally plated. Any harm is painting it now and then replating at some point out in the future?