There has been some recent discussion regarding C2 oil pans. Are these considered reapirable if the oil drain hole has been stripped or would I be better off just buying a new one? The car in question is a 1966 327-350HP.
C2 oil pans
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Re: C2 oil pans
This is a discontinued part but there were 49 in the Michigan warehouse and a few in Arizona and New York. The part number is 3723008. It is the plate inside the oil pan. You grind off most of the old one (get it as smooth as you can, then weld the new one over the old one. This maintains the integrity of the outside seal.
So if you need one or think you will, it's time to order. They were $5.00 each. Just go to the local chevy dealers parts room.
Here is a picture I had saved / pirated. Dave removed the old plate entirely. The new plate is in the picture on the left.
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Re: C2 oil pans
This is a discontinued part but there were 49 in the Michigan warehouse and a few in Arizona and New York. The part number is 3723008. It is the plate inside the oil pan. You grind off most of the old one (get it as smooth as you can, then weld the new one over the old one. This maintains the integrity of the outside seal.
So if you need one or think you will, it's time to order. They were $5.00 each. Just go to the local chevy dealers parts room.
Here is a picture I had saved / pirated. Dave removed the old plate entirely. The new plate is in the picture on the left.
A repair plate can easily be made from a piece of steel plate stock. Just cut to size and drill and tap for 1/2-20 thread. The GM repair plates are not hardened steel, so you don't give up anything if you make one from stock.In Appreciation of John Hinckley- Top
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Re: C2 oil pans
By the way, one of the reasons these things strip out the way they do is because of the fact that the GM plate, PRODUCTION or SERVICE, is not hardened steel. I wish someone would make one that was hardened. That would go a long way to eliminate the problem of stripped out oil drains.In Appreciation of John Hinckley- Top
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Re: C2 oil pans
I think they'll need to have hardening capabilities which some machine shops do have. The way to do it is to cut the threads in unhardened steel and then harden the piece. A piece of steel stock that was through-hardened would be brittle and difficult to machine.In Appreciation of John Hinckley- Top
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Re: C2 oil pans
Nuts were not used on original GM pans through 1974. However, at sometime after 1974, nuts came into use on both PRODUCTION pans as well as SERVICE pans for pre-75 applications. The nuts are actually an improvement since I believe the nuts are hardened, unlike the plates. So, with a nut, I'm surprised that the threads were stripped out.
As Harry mentions, pictures would help tie this down.In Appreciation of John Hinckley- Top
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Re: C2 oil pans
I don't understand that. Are you clicking on the "paperclip" icon at the top of the screen? When this is done, you should get a "pop up" window to open which allows you to browse your computer for the file and then upload it to the board. It's really quite simple.In Appreciation of John Hinckley- Top
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Re: C2 oil pans
Gary------
That's exactly the configuration of the nut I'd expect for a later GM SERVICE pan. From the very little bit I can see of the configuration of the pan, itself, it does look like a 63-74 style Corvette pan. A picture of the complete pan would aid in that ID.
There is a way you can confirm if it's the later configuration pan. Place the pan upside down on a flat surface. Measure from the apex (center high point) of the FRONT oil pan seal radius to the flat surface the pan is resting on. If the measurement is 2-3/8", then you have confirmed it's the later SERVICE pan. If the measurement is 2-1/4", then it's the original configuration pan. However, in that case, I do not understand the nut being used for the oil drain fitting.In Appreciation of John Hinckley- Top
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