Hello I'm Chuck Rice and I love to strip

[Chuck R.]

Now that I've staggered the tech board with that little gem, I have questions regarding after the stripping.

I've read posts from others on what to do after the paint is chemically removed and wonder which would be the better process.

My concern is after all the paint is removed, what's the next "best" step? I'll be finished with the removal probably by Saturday.

As I have all winter to let the body rest while I do other repairs, I would like to prep it as much as possible before I re-address body finishes in the spring.

I asked the question a while back regarding whether to strip the body or not as there were a couple of blisters showing. The general response was to play it safe and take it down. It was great advise as I have found several additional failed areas that were lurking underneath what appeared to be a nice smooth surface. Thanks for the advice

Chuck

[Stuart F.]

Re: Hello I'm Chuck Rice and I love to strip

Chuck;

Knock yourself out! Streak too if you like!

My 63 was taken down with a fine media blast back in 76. There are some areas where it shows, more from the sander, but it is hardly noticeable. The repaint has held up very well since then with only a few small cracks at the typical stress corners on the hood and a small area above the license plate.

Stu Fox

[Ken B.]

Re: Hello I'm Chuck Rice and I love to strip

After i STRIPPED MINE I JUST WIPED IT DOWN WITH LAQUER THINNER. IT SAT ALL WINTER BEFORE IT WAS SENT TO PAINTER..DIDN'T HAVE ANY PROBLEMS.

[Chuck R.]

Re: Thanks Stu and Ken

The body is now totally stripped and I'm going to wash it up tonight to hopefully blow off any stripper remnants.

Then I'll let it (and me) rest up for the big push in the spring.

Thanks for the input guys,

Chuck

[Dick W.]

Re: Hello I'm Chuck Rice and I love to strip

Once you get rid of all the media, I like to remove any filler that even remotely looks like it could cause problems, spray it with PPG DP .. depending on what color you want. Do your filler, bondo, or whatever you use on top of this. The DP gives a "tooth" for the filler to bond to. You have about a seven day window on this product before it hardens to a point that you will not get a chemical bond. After that time you will need to scuff it and then spray a coat (my preference) of PPG K-36 primer/surfacer. This is a heavy build surfacer so do not get too carried away. You could leave this on until you are ready to resume work on the body. Once you have done all your blocking an sanding and are ready to top coat, I will shoot a coat of DP.. (again the color closest to your top coat), reduced 100% as a seal coat. As this is drying you should be getting ready to start spraying color. We started using this combination about 15-20 years ago and those paint jobs still look like they were shot yesterday.

[Chuck R.]

Re: Thanks Dick

I'll start researching my PPG options as well.

When I last shot a car Dick, Imron was the "space age rage"

It's a tad mind boggling what is offered today ranging from the new generation bonding agents right on up to the sandable sealers with finally the numerous paint options

Thanks for getting back to me,

Chuck