70 pin Connector Removal - NCRS Discussion Boards

70 pin Connector Removal

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  • Bill L.
    Expired
    • February 1, 2004
    • 1403

    70 pin Connector Removal

    Well I am usually pretty good at figuring out how to get an old connector out of the plastic. Not so on this one.

    This is the temperature wire pin type connector for a 70. I got my hands on an excellent donor harness so I have an original pin connector in it's plastic housing. The wire is cut too short so I need to remove the connector from the housing.

    What is the secret?

    Thanks,


    Bill
  • Jack H.
    Extremely Frequent Poster
    • April 1, 1990
    • 9906

    #2
    Re: 70 pin Connector Removal

    Look closely at the translucent 'barrel' or hood on the connector. You'll see it's NOT perfectly round.

    There's a 'fluted' section running from front to rear. This has a step in it for the connector's insertion tab to snap up into and hold the connector inside the hood (prevent it from sliding out the rear).

    You need to push the connector forward into the hood, hold it there from the rear and insert a small release tool from the front, down the 'flute' to compress the connector's release pin. Once compressed, the connector will slide out of the hood, rearward.

    BUT, often, used originals have plastic hoods that are SO 'cooked' that when you insert a release tool to depress the connector's positioning pin, the plastic hood simply cracks/crumbles. So, good luck!

    Comment

    • Joe L.
      Beyond Control Poster
      • February 1, 1988
      • 43193

      #3
      Re: 70 pin Connector Removal

      Originally posted by Jack Humphrey (17100)
      Look closely at the translucent 'barrel' or hood on the connector. You'll see it's NOT perfectly round.

      There's a 'fluted' section running from front to rear. This has a step in it for the connector's insertion tab to snap up into and hold the connector inside the hood (prevent it from sliding out the rear).

      You need to push the connector forward into the hood, hold it there from the rear and insert a small release tool from the front, down the 'flute' to compress the connector's release pin. Once compressed, the connector will slide out of the hood, rearward.

      BUT, often, used originals have plastic hoods that are SO 'cooked' that when you insert a release tool to depress the connector's positioning pin, the plastic hood simply cracks/crumbles. So, good luck!
      Jack-----


      Yes, whatever sort of plastic that was used for these temperature sender connector insulators for 68-71, it was a very poor choice. It really wasn't suitable for a high temperature environment, at all.

      Some of the later connector insulators for the button style senders were made from what appears to me to be linear polypropylene or a similar plastic. They hold up well.
      In Appreciation of John Hinckley

      Comment

      • Jack H.
        Extremely Frequent Poster
        • April 1, 1990
        • 9906

        #4
        Re: 70 pin Connector Removal

        Clear plastic was just starting to come down the technology curve in those days, Joe. That's clear plastic that could be injection molded vs. say plexiglass.

        So, it appears to me there was a right-hand/left-hand issue in design as not only did they use a plastic that wasn't very heat tolerant, but they moved the temp sender from the top of the engine block to the side of the cylinder head where it could 'bake'...

        But, hey, we live and learn all the time!

        Comment

        • Bill L.
          Expired
          • February 1, 2004
          • 1403

          #5
          Re: 70 pin Connector Removal

          Thank you Jack.

          I just needed something a little stronger to press down the tab. Seems like the connector is a little heavier gauge than some of the others. I just did not want to break anything.

          It is apart and in good shape!



          Bill

          Comment

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