C2: When ignition switch is on ACC

[Steve F.]

I pulled the key out of the ignition switch on my '64 last week apparently while it was in the ACC position, and returned to a very very dead battery today - not even the clock was working.

What draws current when the switch is left in the ACC position? I don't think I left the Wonderbar on.

Thanks,

Steve

[Stuart F.]

Re: C2: When ignition switch is on ACC

Steve;

I've heard the explanation, but can't recall the specifics. It's something to do with "for every hot there is a ground", and certain devices "leak". I had the same problem with my 63 years ago when I was confusing the Vette with one of our other cars at the time with the steering wheel lock, and I repeatedly found myself turning the switch all the way to the left. My battery would go dead routinely and I went searching for another problem including leaky diodes in the alternator. Had that rebuilt, and it continued to happen. Finally it dawned on me "Turn to OFF" only, not beyond. To this day I have to tell myself that each time I turn it off.

Stu Fox

[Timothy B.]

Re: C2: When ignition switch is on ACC

Steve, Your 64 should have AM/FM not wonderbar radio.

Are you guys brothers?????

[Stuart F.]

Re: C2: When ignition switch is on ACC

Tim:

No, not that I know of, but we seem to have similar problems or "lapses of memory". Still, as long as he spells his name the same way (1 "X"), we probably had relatives that fought in the same Scottish wars together (gince them Brits!).

Do you you know the answer to the question, i.e. why the battery goes dead when the ignition switch is left in "ACC" position? I hope I didn't mess up Steve's thread so he can get an answer - guess his title is telling enough.

Stu Fox

[Steve F.]

Re: C2: When ignition switch is on ACC

Oops, correct, the AM/FM not a Wonderbar.

Not brothers, but Stu has been very helpful on this board since I bought this car.

Steve

[Richard M.]

Re: C2: When ignition switch is on ACC

Steve,

The only current draw is the clock, afaik......

We've had similar experiences with the 63. Turned out we had a bad voltage regulator, always energizing the alternator field. If the alt is warm after a few days of non use, that's the clue. One day i leaned on it, and it was warm.

I disconnected the battery for idle periods after the VR issue, but still had battery die outs. Turned out to be a dead cell, and weak others. Don't discount a marginal battery in your case too.

Rich

[Harry S.]

Re: C2: When ignition switch is on ACC

Steve, I suggest a quick disconnect on the battery. I disconnect the battery every time I park the car. Avoids issues like yours as well as avoids safety problems, like fires in the garage. I'd hate to see a hot short take a house with it!

[Stuart F.]

Re: C2: When ignition switch is on ACC

Steve;

If you do add a disconnect switch, I would strongly recommend the Knife Switch type over the Knob type. Just the other day we again heard another horror story about one of the knob type switches on this venue. Seems they are prone to not making or breaking complete contact. The knife switch ain't as pretty, but you can see whether you have it positioned properly and, for that matter, whether the contact surfaces are clean or corroded. I have one of these and have settled into using it when I am sure to be shut down for a while.

Who knows, after I get my clock working again, I may not be so inclined to use it as often.

Stu Fox

[Jim L.]

Re: C2: When ignition switch is on ACC

What draws current when the switch is left in the ACC position? I don't think I left the Wonderbar on.

On my '63, the gauges are drawing current when the switch is in the ACC position and they will definitely draw enough current to discharge the battery. I strongly suspect this is the problem on your car.

One solution (or way of working around the problem of a worn lock mechanism, really) is to discipline yourself to rotate the key all the way to the left and then one click to the right before removing it.

Jim

[John D.]

Re: C2: When ignition switch is on ACC

In the early 90's I had a 63 saddle/saddle Corvette that was a wonderful driver. Had it painted red though. Anyhow I had a serious electrical fire when I pushed the cigar lighter in and it didn't pop out again. At least I think that's what fried the wiring,etc. Thank God for the battery shut off but by the time I got my butt out of the drivers seat, opened the hood and ran to to the other side to disconnect the battery the damage was done.
On my 63 show car(LWC) I never leave the battery connected in the garage.

[Stuart F.]

Re: C2: When ignition switch is on ACC

John;

Wow! that's a real sobering story - enough to make you give up smoking, Nah!

Seriously, your point is well taken. We probably shouldn't trust our old wiring too much. Guess I've gotten spoiled here in Florida. I leave the top down and jump in it and go just like I do with the family car. Although my back is a lot better, I'm not going to do one of those route 66 run and jump over the door entries yet. however, my usual routine is to pop the hood as soon as I return to the garage and hook up the Battery Minder (old northern habit). Perhaps I should just put the switch disconnect in my routine as long as I'm going there.

Stu Fox

[Jack H.]

Re: C2: When ignition switch is on ACC

This is a RARE case, but it CAN happen... The clock works by using a conventional set of points to energize the clock's winding spring. That's why you hear 'click' every 90-seconds of so.

If the points fail by 'welding' shut, they won't open up when the solenoid fires causing a current drain. Depending on the resulting contact resistance, the current drain CAN be enough to fry the dash harness insulation...

[Dan H.]

Re: C2: When ignition switch is on ACC

On my '63, the gauges are drawing current when the switch is in the ACC position and they will definitely draw enough current to discharge the battery. I strongly suspect this is the problem on your car.

One solution (or way of working around the problem of a worn lock mechanism, really) is to discipline yourself to rotate the key all the way to the left and then one click to the right before removing it.

Jim

In addition to the 'cut off' switch for the battery, a new ignition switch that will prevent you from removing the key in 'acc' position will also help. Normal switch operation is like that. Sounds like it's pretty well worn out!
Dan

[Stuart F.]

Re: C2: When ignition switch is on ACC

Dan;

I think we went down this road no too long ago. I believe that is one of the quirks of the 63 and maybe the 64, in that you can remove the key in any position because the are "one key only" cars, i.e. no separate/second door and accessory key like on later models. Such as, if I want to open my glove box while the engine is running, I can pull my key out and unlock the glove box door, then put it back in the ignition. This is probably one reason they changed the cars over to two keys.

Stu fox

[Dan H.]

Re: C2: When ignition switch is on ACC

Dan;

I think we went down this road no too long ago. I believe that is one of the quirks of the 63 and maybe the 64, in that you can remove the key in any position because the are "one key only" cars, i.e. no separate/second door and accessory key like on later models. Such as, if I want to open my glove box while the engine is running, I can pull my key out and unlock the glove box door, then put it back in the ignition. This is probably one reason they changed the cars over to two keys.

Stu fox

Stu
Must disagree my friend, dust off your original owners manual and read about ignition switch and key functions. The key cannot (should not) be able to be removed in the 'ACC' or 'OFF' etc. It can be removed in the 'ON' and "LOCK' modes. This is one of the hardest things to have work on a 'PV' test!
Dan