'67 Power Brakes

[Louie C.]

Been thinking about upgrading my 67 to power brakes. I have seen several offerings from ebay, anywhere from $99 for booster and master cylinder to $225 for just a booster. My car is not an Original motor car and probaly will never be judged. Anything wrong with the cheaper setups? Any other changes need to be made, like proportioning valves etc? Any suggestions appreciated.

[John H.]

Re: '67 Power Brakes

If you have the original master cylinder (casting #5455509, stamped "DC" at the front), you won't need another one - '67 was the only year where both manual and power brakes used the same master cylinder.

Corvette Stainless Steel Brakes (www.cssbinc.com) has an excellent reproduction booster; you'll also need the nutplate, bolts and rivets for the upper booster attachment to the firewall and the bolt-on striker for the brake light switch, and the lines. No additional valving is required.

[Bill C.]

Re: '67 Power Brakes

I have done quite a few of these power brake add ons, on 67 you will need to remove the forward frame brake line retaining clip for the rear brake line in order to "stretch" it as adding the booster repositions the master cylinder forward farther than the line will permit without removing the clamp.
To be a "cleaner" install the forward M/C line should also be changed, for the same reason. You will also need the add on brake light switch actuator to mount to the pedal. Be certain to readjust the booster to pedal rod length (this is important) to ensure correct free pedal travel and pedal height. Since originallity is not a concern you do not need to remove the pedal return spring that was not installed on factory optioned cars, it will mean nothing in your case and will not change the return feel or action. Also, as previously mentioned when installing the upper booster mount you will be required to drill two holes through the firewall (after removing the LH wiper grill). You will also be required to "knock out" the two original firewall mounting bolts for the non power M/C, just give them a sharp hit with a hammer and they will pop right back onto the floor, the booster uses studs that will just pass right through the now empty hole and use nuts and lw on the inside.
Be sure you have booster in hand and use it as a template to locate EXACTLY were to drill the clearance holes in the firewall to mount into the bracket, you do not need to install the rivets supplied to hold the bracket in place since you are not concerned about duplicating factory, its much easier without them.
Lastly, there are at least 3 maybe 4 repo versions of the booster out there on the market, there are more versions involved with the mounting of the brackets via rivets as original or studs and nuts, in you case either will be fine. I can say I have used some of the units advertised around $100 without any problems, some early versions had issues but have been corrected. In any event its a very competitive price war and I would be surprised if they were all fom a different manufacturer although they are for sure imported.
Be VERY cautious of buying a new Master Cylinder. There are a few versions out there I would be very hesitant to use, especially the units with line outlets on both sides of the master, appears to be some type of attempt at making it Generic. The market is currently flooded with these and I know the booster/master units being peddled for under $100 are as such.
There are very good units available from major houses for well under $100 wholesale, including the one repo geared at duplicating the original. If you need some references e-mail me.
Needless to say you could always use original parts, but at much more expense. Also keep in mind none of the repo boosters are serviceable or rebuildable as the parts internal are not the same as original so they should be considered throw aways if failing after any time warranty has expired. Not rebuildable. Good luck, you will like your conversion!
FYI, I also have put this set-up on lots of 65-66 cars and just again match line sizes and lines appropriately and now besides having power they have the added safety feature of a dual system.

[W L.]

Re: '67 Power Brakes

Hi Bill,
I would like to add power brakes to my recently purchased '67 327/350 myself
if possible. I am slightly mechanically inclined but have researched the subject
and think I might give it a try. You're Dec. '08 forum response provides
excellent guidance. My main concern is where you indicate that the brake
lines need to be "stretched" by removing the closest retaining clips. If I do that, is it easy to move the MC intact and just hook it up to the booster (it looks like the lines are very rigid). If so, are there any tools that would make
the job easier.
I would also like your recommendation on where to source the booster/parts
or kit.
Thanks in advance,
Frank

[Joe L.]

Re: '67 Power Brakes

All------


To be honest, I've never noted enough difference in braking performance between non-power and power brakes on disc brake-equipped Corvettes to justify the hassle and expense of adding it.

[Bill C.]

Re: '67 Power Brakes

Hi Bill,
I would like to add power brakes to my recently purchased '67 327/350 myself
if possible. I am slightly mechanically inclined but have researched the subject
and think I might give it a try. You're Dec. '08 forum response provides
excellent guidance. My main concern is where you indicate that the brake
lines need to be "stretched" by removing the closest retaining clips. If I do that, is it easy to move the MC intact and just hook it up to the booster (it looks like the lines are very rigid). If so, are there any tools that would make
the job easier.
I would also like your recommendation on where to source the booster/parts
or kit.
Thanks in advance,
Frank

Frank,
Sent you a PM, you will be very pleased you made the choice to add power brakes
Bill

[R N.]

Re: '67 Power Brakes

Hi All,
I've been thinking of doing just the opposite by removing the power brakes from my '67 that were added some twenty years ago by the previous owner. As a side note, I really prefer the feel of the manual brakes (and manual steering) over power.

Is it harder to convert back to manual from PB? Example filling bolt holes etc.

[Charles A.]

Re: '67 Power Brakes

John, does the brake light switch for non power brake cars work or do you need another switch? Does the clevis and pin mount in the bottom or top hole on the brake pedal on a p/b car?

[Ray G.]

Re: '67 Power Brakes

What Joe said.

[John H.]

Re: '67 Power Brakes

John, does the brake light switch for non power brake cars work or do you need another switch? Does the clevis and pin mount in the bottom or top hole on the brake pedal on a p/b car?

Charles -

J50 uses the standard switch, but it's actuated by a stamped striker that's bolted through the top hole in the pedal arm; the clevis on the J50 pedal pushrod attaches in the bottom hole in the pedal arm. All shown in the J50 section, sheet A3, in the A.I.M. With manual brakes, the pedal pushrod clevis uses the top hole in the pedal arm.

[Paul S.]

Re: '67 Power Brakes

Charles - see this link from Long Island Corvette, which gives you a diagram and part numbers for what John described above.

http://www.licorvette.com/pdfcatalogfiles/5225.PDF

I'm in the midst of doing the conversion on my 67--I've got all the old brake lines removed, front wheel bearings repacked and will start putting it all back together tomorrow or this weekend.

[Charles A.]

Re: '67 Power Brakes

John and Paul thanks much. Just need to get the actuator and should be all set.

[Michael M.]

Re: '67 Power Brakes

Been thinking about upgrading my 67 to power brakes. I have seen several offerings from ebay, anywhere from $99 for booster and master cylinder to $225 for just a booster. My car is not an Original motor car and probaly will never be judged. Anything wrong with the cheaper setups? Any other changes need to be made, like proportioning valves etc? Any suggestions appreciated.

Louie,

There is a step by step article in Corvette Magazine, April 2011 issue, with some photos.

Mike