Tower Clamp Installation Problem - NCRS Discussion Boards

Tower Clamp Installation Problem

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  • Alexander M.
    Expired
    • January 1, 2006
    • 48

    Tower Clamp Installation Problem

    Hi,
    I am attemping to replace a stainless radiator hose clamp with a tower style clamp purchased from Paragon for my '66. This is my first experience with these clamps and after an hour of frustration, I thought I would ask for some tips. How do you keep the screw from leaving the dimple and distorting the tower area as it gets tighter. Each time I try to screw it into place, as soon as the screw makes good contact, it starts to slide to one side. Then the area with the nut begins to distort. Any ideas?
    Thanks,
    AL
  • Mike M.
    Director Region V
    • August 31, 1994
    • 1463

    #2
    Re: Tower Clamp Installation Problem

    There are several fairly recent threads in the archives.
    Bottom line, even if you were able to install the re-pop Towers correctly, they won't remain that way and will probably leak.
    Solution, as more than one poster on this board has done, keep the worm clamps for function and replace with the Towers on the judging field.
    HaND

    Comment

    • John M.
      Expired
      • November 10, 2008
      • 364

      #3
      Re: Tower Clamp Installation Problem

      I've used a ton of these clamps on GM A body restorations. The problem is that the reproductions are a much thinner guage than original and bend, twist and leak because you cant tighten them enough.

      The trick to these clamps is to thouroughly clean the inside of the hose, and the mounting area with solvent. Liberally coat the inside of the hose, and mounting area with Copper RTV. When you tighten the clamp, use a set of channel lock pliers to hold the upper portion of the clamp straight, and tighten with a ratchet using caution not to overtighten and punch the screw through the clamp, and into the hose, or the problem your having, overtightening so it jumps off the dimple.

      Just tighten nice and snug, so it's fully extended, but it will still easily move with the hose seemingly no where near tight enough to hold pressure.

      However, when the RTV fully dries, it will be tight and sealed like a drum.

      Just allow a good 24 hours at 70 degrees for a full cure before pressurizing.

      I rarely have problems with them, but you'll destroy a hose if you have to remove them.

      Comment

      • Alan S.
        Extremely Frequent Poster
        • July 31, 1989
        • 3415

        #4
        Re: Tower Clamp Installation Problem

        Hi John,
        That's a very interesting solution. THANKS!!
        Regards,
        Alan
        71 Coupe, 350/270, 4 speed
        Mason Dixon Chapter
        Chapter Top Flight October 2011

        Comment

        • Alexander M.
          Expired
          • January 1, 2006
          • 48

          #5
          Re: Tower Clamp Installation Problem

          Thanks Guys for your help.

          Comment

          • Edward S.
            Expired
            • December 1, 1986
            • 514

            #6
            Re: Tower Clamp Installation Problem

            Unless you need them for judging I would stay with the worm type, twice with-in a 18 month period I had too of the tower clamps go while driving. I am getting too old to start cleaning the entire engine compartment, as soon as my judging days were over I went back to the worm type and have never had a problem.

            Comment

            • Alexander M.
              Expired
              • January 1, 2006
              • 48

              #7
              Re: Tower Clamp Installation Problem

              Hi Ed,
              Thanks for the info. I am preparing to have the car judged and all the other clamps are correct and working well. I just thought I would change the only incorrect one in the bunch! Not as easy as it appeared. When the day is over, it is back to worms.
              Al

              Comment

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