rust remover

[Joe L.]

Re: rust remover

Joe,

Check out the info at the link below. I think you will be impressed. I purchased a gallon last year and I love it. The company claims "no acid of any kind" and believe it.
I never use anything with even mild phos acid for removing rust.

Most likely, the Rid-Rust is close to the same stuff as the other product mentioned above.

http://www.ridrust.com/

Michael-----


I'll have to try it. I'd love to know what the chemistry of it is. However, the chemistry of these sort of products is always highly proprietary and a closely held secret. That's because, usually, these are made up from simple, easily available, inexpensive compounds. If I still had access to the laboratory I might be able to sort at least part of it out, though.

[Michael H.]

Re: rust remover

Michael-----


I'll have to try it. I'd love to know what the chemistry of it is. However, the chemistry of these sort of products is always highly proprietary and a closely held secret. That's because, usually, these are made up from simple, easily available, inexpensive compounds. If I still had access to the laboratory I might be able to sort at least part of it out, though.

I don't think you'll be disappointed. I was definitely impressed.

I agree, I doubt the formula/chemistry is easily accessed.

[Alan D.]

Re: rust remover

The Rid Rust and Safest Rust are the same company just not sure why the name change some legal thing I bet. The Rust Clean sounds like the same product, however I just may try some of that stuff since cost is about the same.
The ph = 5.25 and during talks with rep about 3 years ago he mentioned when the ph reaches x.xx the punch is gone (can not remember #).

Think the slight blacking is due to the iron content which the process yields and except for that level it can be poured down the drain and is biodegradable. Much like the Rust Clean mentioned.
Did not find any data sheet listed on web site just claim of no acid.

Also found another site orisonllc.com & select corrosion removal Some MIL stuff there also.

[Kenneth H.]

Re: rust remover

I just pulled the gas tank from my 70 LT1 looking for the tank sticker but, alas, it disintegrated long ago. Just a few small fragments were left. Now I want to clean the outside of the tank before reinstalling it and was wondering, are all of the above products safe to use to remove surface rust from the outside of a Gas Tank?

[Terry M.]

Re: rust remover

All the C3 gas tanks are made from zinc plated steel. If the tank has began to rust -- inside or outside -- the zinc coating is gone, and nothing you can reasonably do will replace it. Buy a new tank.

[Alan D.]

Re: rust remover

Nice car Ken. from what I've read these products would be safe for your job.
Now the down side, the tank is big and in order to clean the rust the part needs to be submerged or a constant flow of liquid over the rust.
So here an idea; get a mason's mixing tub (Home Depot or like) that will hold the tank. Get a liquid pump, pump from bottom of tub and let flow over the top of tank. To get a little more from the Remover raise the temperature if possible (use my plating control heaters for this).

Another trick is to leave a magnetic in solution to gather the rust left overs and clean off every so often or run through a filter material setup.

Also see the orinsonmarketing.com site -looks like same stuff, but costs less. Its $21/Gal Next time out I will try it myself.

[Kenneth H.]

Re: rust remover

Alan,

Thanks for your response. It seems like I might be spending some money to buy the pump, tub and materials and I'd probably be better served taking Terry's suggestion to just buy a new tank. It was something that I was trying to put off until later since I had no issues with the tank before I removed it, but everyone I talk to says the same thing, so I guess it's a new tank.


Ken

[Jeffrey S.]

Re: rust remover

I'm not a chemist and I have not seen the MSDS for any of the products but I have used all three and the parts come out of the Rust Clean much brighter and more like new steel than the other 2. Just my observation.
Jeff

[Jeffrey S.]

Re: rust remover

Unfortunately, I just learne from the manufacturer rep for Rust Clean that they are no longer in business. He did say that the Evapo-Rust is pretty much the same product but I have not tried it.
Jeff

[John M.]

Re: rust remover

This may be an "old wives tale" but someone told me the stuff is a by product of sugar beet processing. It works really well, whatever it is. Feels very slippery, like oil.

[Harmon C.]

Re: rust remover

I have used a product called rust cure for years. I found it being sold at swap meets. It works best when used in a tank but I did a frame on a car with it. The best part is you just primed and painted after it dried. No washing it off.

[Dennis C.]

Re: rust remover

Alan,

Thanks for your response. It seems like I might be spending some money to buy the pump, tub and materials and I'd probably be better served taking Terry's suggestion to just buy a new tank. It was something that I was trying to put off until later since I had no issues with the tank before I removed it, but everyone I talk to says the same thing, so I guess it's a new tank.


Ken

Ken,

There is a good chance that whatever you have on the outside of the tank, it's worse on the inside. Unless the tank arrangement is such you can inspect most of the interior, you might be better off with a repo.

Regards,

Dennis

[Grant M.]

Re: rust remover

Joe,

Your comments and those of others made me curious about what this product might contain (non-acid, biodegradable). With a pH of 5.25, it's technically a 'weak acid' according to Wikipedia. They list several organic and inorganic 'weak acids': citric acid, phosphoric acid being two. Interestingly, one of the footnotes to the Wikipedia article refers to the use of citric acid for industrial rust removal. Following that chain takes you to a description of how a dilue citric acid solution in warm water is used to de-rust the insides of newly manufactured boilers in order to ensure maximum heat transfer efficiency. Basically the citric acid solution fills the boiler and tubes and is allowed to 'work' for a time, after which an ammonia (a base) is added to stop the process. There's even a description of how the citric acid solution process leaves the surface somewhat protected for a period after drying.

While I wouldn't claim to have solved any mystery here about what the product may or may not be based on, I would suggest (as you have said) that it's probably not entirely 'non-acidic', simply a very weak acid (like citric acid) which is also biodegradable. Wikipedia also notes similar safety precautions to thos of the manufacturer: skin contact is an issue for concentrated solutions (the boiler de-rusting is said to be done with dilute or weak solutions--so likely there would be no need for gloves); it's an eye irritant, and as the manufacturer recommends, the remedy for eye contact is flushing with water.

Along these same lines, I have 'Revere Ware' pots and pans at home (copper-clad bottoms on stainless steel) and noticed long ago that spaghetti sauce (mostly tomato sauce) cleans the copper really well over time, and of course, it's relatively safe--you can eat it....

grant

[Mark P.]

Re: rust remover

Here are before and after pictures of an oil pan I de-rusted with ZEP. The rusted oil pan photo is after a couple days of being hot tanked (at a machine shop) to see if that would help. It didn't. I let it soak overnight. I was surprised how few pits there were after I was done. The pan is very presentable.