C1 Engine Installation Question

[Mark P.]

I plan to install my rebuilt engine shortly in my 1960 and had a few questions I hope someone can comment on.

I plan to install the engine with the transmission and want to know the best way to connect my cherry picker to the engine.

1. should I try to find plates that bolt on to my 2 X 4 aluminum intake manifold and connect to those plates ? is there a better way ?

2. does anyone use the method in the Corvette Servicing Guide on pg 6-7 which requires removing 2 head bolts and installing a lift tool ? I don't want to remove any head bolts.

3. are "Load Levelers" useful ? The crank seems handy to get the engine and tran at the right angle.


Thanks,

Mark

[Mike M.]

Re: C1 Engine Installation Question

load leveler only way to go. i welded a large nut on the crank handle end of my leveling device. instead of cranking with my puny arms, i let Mr Air Impact wrench and socket do the leveling. mike

[Ashley S.]

Re: C1 Engine Installation Question

I second Mikes endorsment of the load leveler. My cousin and I used one to install my motor and transmission in my 57. FAR easier and safer. We bought mine from Tractor Supply for $40. I'm sure there are better ones out there, but I would get one for sure.

[Ted S.]

Re: C1 Engine Installation Question

Mark, I use a pair of the factory lifts brackets that bolt to the front two intake bolts on one side and the back two intake bolts on the other side. If you have a buddy it helps. I just run a chain between the lift points and position the load such that the tranny tilts down a fair amount and put a bolt through the chain to form a loop there. Get the buddy to lift on the tranny to clear the front upper valance/radiator support and begin moving it back. Once the harmonic balancer clears the radiator support begin letting it down. Put some cardboard on the floor under the tranny so you don't scratch it up. You can put some cloth on the top of the tranny and bellhousing to protect the firewall as you move the engine/tranny in place. Once it's in place so the front mount sits on the stands, use a jack to lift the back of the tranny in place and install the cross mount. With a small block there's quite a bit of room so they're not bad. Now a big block in a C3....that's a whole different experience. Hope this helps. I put an I beam with a trolly in my lower garage. That sure makes it easier.

[Christopher R.]

Re: C1 Engine Installation Question

A Load Leveler is more than useful. It's essential. If you use a new one, lubricate the threads to make it easy to turn. You may wish to have the crank in the rear, because the engine and transmission assembly will go in the compartment at a pretty severe angle. At extreme angles, the crank on my Harbor Freight leveler interfered with the chain on the front. At the rear, the chain is away from the crank when angled. I attached mine to Grade 8 bolts I temporarily substituted for intake manifold bolts. If you do that, don't install thread sealer on the permanent intake manifold bolts until after you put the engine in.

When I did mine, the engine and transmission were installed as an assembly. The transmission had a Hurst shifter installed without the lever. The shifter hit the firewall and the harmonic balancer hit the radiator support. Slight interference, which was overcome with a little shove. Touch up the firewall paint afterwards.

I've seen in articles how people use the 4 carb mounting studs to support the engine. Even with aluminum intakes. But I don't trust them. I've used Grade 8 bolts in the exhaust or intake manifold bolt holes. I like redundancy. On the Harbor Freight leveler, there's 2 chains in the front, and 2 at the rear. I put the front 2 on the #1 and #2 bolts on the LH side. The rears went on the last 2 bolts on the RH side. I figured if 1 let do, there'd be another next to it.

Make sure you plug the rear of the transmission. Or, much of the fluid will spill out when angled. The car needs to be about 12" up on jack stands to allow the assembly to go in. But not so much that the hoist can't get the engine over the car and into the compartment. Leave the exhaust manifolds, spark plug heat shields, spark plug wire supports, fuel pump, fan, distributor, harmonic balancer, pulleys, and starter off. Install them after the engine is in. I installed the dipstick tube afterwards. But I'm not sure that was best. I forget whether the spark plugs were installed before or after.

A Hurst shifter with the detachable lever can be installed beforehand with the linkage. The linkage can also be final adjusted beforehand. The factory shifter and linkage will have to go on and adjusted after the transmission is in. To make it easier to get the factory shifter and speedometer cable in, install them before the crossmember support. Install them while the rear of the transmission is hanging down and supported by the engine hoist. Once you put the transmission up in its tunnel, it's hard to do anything up there.

While the engine is still supported by the hoist, before you set it down on the mounts, while it is still a few inches above the mounts, see if you can install the fuel pump. The fuel pump can be installed after the engine is installed. But it's difficult, and requires much cursing. You do need to install the 45 degree fuel fitting before the pump goes on. That fitting hits the frame if you try to install it after the pump.

[Mark P.]

Re: C1 Engine Installation Question

I was thinking I could take a piece of 3/8" plate steel plate approx 17" X 7" and drill 8 holes for the carb mounting bolts. I would connect my chain to large eyelets bolted through each end of the plate.

The aluminum 2 X4 intake manifold would be strong enough, right ?

Is there an easier way to attach a chain to this engine.

[Mark P.]

Re: C1 Engine Installation Question

Christopher - I was thinking the exhaust manifold and intake manifolds would be installed.

Installing the exhaust manifold after the engine is in may be easier than fabricating the plate for the intake manifold.

Do you recommend installing the intake manifold and exhausts after the engine is in ?

Thanks,

Mark

[Stephen C.]

Re: C1 Engine Installation Question

mark: you did not mention if you have a manual or powerglide trans,if its a
powerglide make sure you have a heavy duty cherry picker.1960 was the
last year for corvettes using a cast iron trans (aprox wt 400 lbs).
the other post are correct load levlers are a must.
good luck
steve

[Christopher R.]

Re: C1 Engine Installation Question

I was thinking I could take a piece of 3/8" plate steel plate approx 17" X 7" and drill 8 holes for the carb mounting bolts. I would connect my chain to large eyelets bolted through each end of the plate.

The aluminum 2 X4 intake manifold would be strong enough, right ?

Is there an easier way to attach a chain to this engine.

Not sure what you mean. I don't know what the steel plate is going to buy you. You can bolt eyelets directly to the heads via the intake or exhaust manifold bolt holes. The factory bolted them to the left front and right rear of the intake manifold bolt holes in the 1970s.

I've done this 3 times. Last time was a few months ago. 2 times via the intake mounting bolt holes into the heads. 1 time using the exhaust manifold bolt holes into the heads. I just temporarily substitute my Grade 8 bolts for the factory exhaust or intake mounting bolts. I think the intake holes are best because of the way the bolt gets stressed.

Yes, you can do this with the intake manifold installed. Shouldn't make any difference one way or the other. I left the exhaust manifolds off, because the exhaust pipes were already installed. Not sure if the exhaust manifolds would be in the way if they were installed before. It's easy to install the exhaust manifolds after the engine is installed. Getting the hangars for the ignition shielding lined up is a little tricky.

[Mike E.]

Re: C1 Engine Installation Question

I wouldn't chance the aluminum intake, myself. I've done this probably 30 times over the years, and don't like the idea of having all that weight supported by bolts threaded into aluminum.

[Mark P.]

Re: C1 Engine Installation Question

Thanks for all your advice.

I'll leave the intake manifold and exhaust manifolds off until installed and will bolt my chain into the intake manifold bolts with grade 8 bolts. I installed metal plates on the end of the chain so the metal plates will bolt up well to the heads.

I'll get a load leveler and like Mike's idea about welding on a nut.

I am installing a T-10 which seems 150lbs or so.