C2 hood repair

[Randy R.]

Most of the bonds between my hood skin and the inner frame are broken. I have removed all loose caulking, cleaned the surfaces to be joined and have obtained a tube of non hardening polyurethane caulking. I have also masked off the surounding surfaces.

Past posts have suggested that weight be applied to the hood while the caulking cures. Applying weight deforms the shape of the hood. I am concerned that the hood won't match the fender openings if the caulking is allow to cure while while weights are on it.

Any recommendations/comments?

Thank you,

Randy

[Zale P.]

Re: C2 hood repair

I guess I got lucky.. My car is getting a complete paint job and all they found is a faint spider web on top.

I let my hood down very gently and then go to both sides to push down gently to latch it..

I keep seeing these midyear owners just dropping the hood and letting it latch itself, which is nuts on that delcate hood....

Cheers, Zale

[Paul Y.]

Re: C2 hood repair

I would suggest that you have the hood on the car when you do any bonding. (Guess how I know) It has a slight curve to it that you do not want to lose. The skin can be removed and rebonded but I would use Vette panel adhesive or equivalent. Be sure to rough up the surface to be bonded before applying the adhesive. You can put a piece of plastic sheet over the engine compartment to protect from easing adhesive. Then weight can be applied to the hood for the drying time. It's similar to working on a model car. Best regards. Paul

[Wayne W.]

Re: C2 hood repair

I guess I got lucky.. My car is getting a complete paint job and all they found is a faint spider web on top.

I let my hood down very gently and then go to both sides to push down gently to latch it..

I keep seeing these midyear owners just dropping the hood and letting it latch itself, which is nuts on that delcate hood....

Cheers, Zale

And I would suggest that a properly adjusted hood is better dropped than the corners pushed. I have never seen any damage from dropping the hood, and think that is the intended method.

[Wayne W.]

Re: C2 hood repair

Most of the bonds between my hood skin and the inner frame are broken. I have removed all loose caulking, cleaned the surfaces to be joined and have obtained a tube of non hardening polyurethane caulking. I have also masked off the surounding surfaces.

Past posts have suggested that weight be applied to the hood while the caulking cures. Applying weight deforms the shape of the hood. I am concerned that the hood won't match the fender openings if the caulking is allow to cure while while weights are on it.

Any recommendations/comments?

Thank you,

Randy

They are not bonds, at least those on the inside areas are not. There is no real bond, just a cushion of non hardning putty. The only bonding is on the outer edge.

[Howard W.]

Re: C2 hood repair

I would not place anything on the hood to weigh it down. Just sand the areas to be bonded and apply the adhesive, clean off excess and let dry. If you apply weight you will distort the hood.

[Mark L.]

Re: C2 hood repair

Do Not use panel adhesive unless you intend to repaint your hood!

The two part bonding adhesives generate a lot of heat while curing and will damage the painted surfaces.

GM used a non-hardening putty between the hood skin and lower reinforcement piece, except around the perimeter.

[Paul Y.]

Re: C2 hood repair

You're right. I was thinking 63. Sorry for the misinformation.

[Gerard F.]

Re: C2 hood repair

Randy,

Did you try my DAP 50 year polyurethane roofing adhesive from the post in the archives.

I thought mine came out pretty good, and I didn't use any weights on the hood. In fact I did it with the hood up.

First I cleaned out the old gumdrop adhesive like you did. Then filled all the crevices with the roofing adhesive, let it take an initial set. Then I trimed all the edges with a rag and solvent (think it was water with the polyurethane).

The final touch was another bead on the outside edges to replicate the original gumdrop adhesive.

The stuff got like black hard rubber in about two days and looks just like the black out paint. I didn't even have to repaint the underside of my 67 hood, I just cleaned it up with Simple Green.

It judged well and is still holding. No more shaky hood at 65 mph.

[Gerard F.]

Re: C2 hood repair

Here's some pics of mine:

The sealant:



Hood finished:



After being embarrassed by the hood brace, I wire brushed it (no replating):



Cheers,

[Randy R.]

Re: C2 hood repair

Jerry,

Thanks for the pictures. I found some similar caulking and plan to use it. I don't understand why you applied the caulking in two steps. Did you remove all of the old caulking or just the loose stuff?


Randy

[Mike G.]

Second application was to...

replicate the factory "squeeze out" appearance.

Hard to predict/control the squeeze out amount in a single step.

[Gerard F.]

Re: C2 hood repair

Randy,

I just removed the loose stuff. Left those areas which were still bonded.

Did the two step process to insure the areas were packed tight with the sealant on the first step. The second step was just cosmetic.

The stuff I used sticks to anything (even your hands), and gets like hard rubber.

[Gerard F.]

Re: C2 hood repair

Also, the stuff I used cuts with Xylol or Toluol, but you have to catch it before it hardens.

[John S.]

Re: C2 hood repair

Jerry,

Nice pics & nice job. not surprisingly my 67 hood is doing the same exact thing. Actually I looked back on some of the pics I took of the car on date of purchase and saw that it had already started before I bought it. Maybe some of the other guys will have some ideas on cause, but in my Sherlock Holmes investigation it seemed to me to be caused by lifting of the hood on drivers side to "unlatch" the stop mechanism to be able to close. When you pull up to the stop on that side, it flexes the hood in a diagonal manner that I believe causes the seperation. JMHO

John Seeley
67 black/teal cuope