Latest update on restoration

[Chris E.]

http://www.vetteaction.com/modules/news/article.php?storyid=39

Things are SORT of moving forward.

[Michael A.]

Re: Latest update on restoration

Chris,
I love your updates. Keep them coming.

Amazing job on the fuel pump! Boy did the before picture look nasty! Also, the radiator cap cleaned up pretty well for a 42 year old part. Is it the original? I'd use it mainly for the show purposes and put a new one on whenever you actually drive the car.

Which shock absorbers did you settle on? Is your grey paint job of the rattle can variety? Also did you paint your wheels yourself.

You're doing a great job of documenting and sharing the process. Thanks again!

Cheers,

[Chris E.]

Re: Latest update on restoration

Mike,
Glad that you like it. The process so far is fun, just taking too much time. (started in the Fall of 06)

Yes, the radiator cap is the original.

Yes, I painted the wheels myself, and the shocks. Yes the paint for the shocks and wheels were of the rattle can variety. I'm really pleased with how they turned out. The argent silver for the fronts of the wheels should be arriving this week. The weather looks good, so I should have the wheels done by the end of the week, and over to Tires Plus to get the new Firestone radials mounted and balanced.

Let's see, the shocks were choice #3 from this response to another NCRS Forum thread.

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Keith----

As far as I know, there are no reproductions of early Corvette shocks available which are correct to "numbers" and "dates". However, there are several ways to go. Here are my comments relative thereto:

1-You could seek out a set of NOS originals. The shock numbers were 3186906-front and 3186907-rear. However, these are the actual part numbers on the shocks and, in service, these were known as 3186717-front and 3186718-rear. That's because, in service, the 3186906/3186907 shocks come in a box with a little bag of hardware. That makes their service part numbers(the numbers on the boxes) different than the numbers on the shocks. Be advised, though, that the chances of finding such a set of shocks, much less ones correctly dated for your car, will be slightly less than the chance of the people in hell getting a big glass of icewater.

2-You could seek out a set of used shocks, appropriately "dated" and "numbered". Of course, finding them will be difficult, too, and, if you do, the chances are they'll be worn out. Since there exists no way that I know of to rebuild a shock absorber, they won't be of much use to you. Of course, if you intend for your car to be a "trailer queen", they'll work just fine. You won't be able to have any real fun with the car, but the numbers on your shocks will be "correct".

3-You could buy a set of new GM replacement shocks. These shocks are available under GM part number 22011967-front(shock number 4975485)and GM part number 4975486-rear(shock number 4975487). These shocks are VERY similar in configuration to the originals. They are supplied in black, so you have to thoroughly clean the exterior surface and paint with Quanta's shock absorber gray paint. When you're done, you'll have a shock that, except for "numbers" and "dates" will look very much like the originals. Bear in mind, though, these are basically "old technology" shocks. They will perform just about like the originals.

4-You could buy a set of Delco Reactec shocks. These shocks are available under GM part number 22065208 (Delco # 560-50)- front and GM part number 22065207 (Delco # 560-51)-rear. These shocks are virtually identical to the replacement original shocks described in 3, above, and, consequently, VERY similar to the original shocks. They are also supplied in black and have small labels on them. You remove the labels, clean the shocks with acryli-clean, and paint with Quanta's shock absorber gray paint. Then you have a set of modern technology, gas charged shock absorbers that look VERY similar to the original shocks supplied on your car when it was new, sans the original "numbers" and "dates".

What kind of point deduct do you suffer for using the shocks described above? I have no idea. All I can tell you is that their configuration is VERY close to the originals. For the point penalty, we'll need to hear from a judge.
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[Patrick H.]

Re: Latest update on restoration

Chris,

Note that for your radiator cap, in its current appearance you'll still lose out on finish because it's now polished instead of a dull zinc plating. There are people out there who restore original radiator caps, and some who will just replate yours in zinc for you if you wish.

As noted above, I'd buy a new RC-26 to drive with and keep this one for show only.

Patrick

[Chris E.]

Re: Latest update on restoration

Thanks Patrick. AFTER cleaning the original cap, I found a hole in the bottom. So functionally, it is broken. At this point, I'm just going to order a repop large ear cap and call it good.

[Alan S.]

Re: Latest update on restoration

Hi Chris,
I enjoyed looking at your update. Great pictures!
I had missed your 'chassis build' pictures so was really pleased to see them. For some reason I enjoy chassis and running gear pictures the most. I sometimes think it's a shame to cover the chassis up with the body.
Are you having fun?
Regards,
Alan

[Chris E.]

Re: Latest update on restoration

Alan,

Thanks for the kind words. Yes I am having fun. But, I'm ready for it to be done. For as much fun as it is working on the car, I want to DRIVE it now.

Yeah, the chassis pictures are neat, aren't they? I have quite a few articles on that webpage, so you can keep going back to see the chassis tear down and see how bad the frame was originally.

Take care,
Chris

[Henry S.]

Re: Latest update on restoration

Chris, Thank you for posting. I have noticed your site link posted before on the forum but for some reason (laziness or time) I never linked to it. I"M GLAD I DID! You're doing a super job and now I'll look forward to checking out each of your additions. It looks like you're doing a great job of keeping everything organized and logging what you are doing. It takes time to keeping a journal but well worth it. I didn't and now regret it. It takes a lot of will power and sanity medicine but you'll be a PROUD owner when you finish. Keep us posted and good luck!! Shooter

[Patrick H.]

Re: Latest update on restoration

Thanks Patrick. AFTER cleaning the original cap, I found a hole in the bottom. So functionally, it is broken. At this point, I'm just going to order a repop large ear cap and call it good.

Chris,

Define "bottom."

Is it such that the cap could not be restored using new internals?

Patrick

[Chris E.]

Re: Latest update on restoration

I've been told it can be restored. I'm not going to throw it away. Here's a picture of the underside.

[Chris E.]

Re: Latest update on restoration

Chris, Thank you for posting. I have noticed your site link posted before on the forum but for some reason (laziness or time) I never linked to it. I"M GLAD I DID! You're doing a super job and now I'll look forward to checking out each of your additions. It looks like you're doing a great job of keeping everything organized and logging what you are doing. It takes time to keeping a journal but well worth it. I didn't and now regret it. It takes a lot of will power and sanity medicine but you'll be a PROUD owner when you finish. Keep us posted and good luck!! Shooter

Thanks Shooter, I will absolutely keep you guys posted. I'm signed up to have the car judged in August at our Chapter meet. The next goal is the Killeen, TX regional. After that, more judging then hopefully a wood plaque.

[Patrick H.]

Re: Latest update on restoration

I've been told it can be restored. I'm not going to throw it away. Here's a picture of the underside.

Yes, that can be restored.
Or, if you want to throw it away, throw it my way.

Patrick