is the need to shim a starter common? i am finding i need to shim the starter on my 66 L72 to get proper engagment. do you shim both sides? if so how do you get the shim in the block side?
-
-
Re: advice on shimming a starter
Shims are available (NAPA and similar) to shim the starter, they are lon with a slotted end to all the shim to fit around the inboard bolt while the shim is being installed from the outboard side.Bill Clupper #618 -
Re: advice on shimming a starter
The shims I have seen are about 3 or 4 inches long, and maybe 3/4-inch wide. (I can get a picture tonight.) They have a slot at the front and a hole nearer the end -- with a small tab to hang on to. Loosen the bolt near the flywheel and remove the bolt on the outboard side of the starter.
If needed, the shim can be slid around the inboard bolt and the outboard bolt inserted through the hole in the shim. Tighten both bolts and try it.
I have seen a drawing that gives a dimension between the bottom of two flywheel teeth and the peak of a tooth on the starter drive. I was taught to put a large paper clip in this area to gage the opening. One has to remove the starter solenoid, and spring in order to hold the starter drive extended to do this. The whole operation requires three or four hands, but it can be done -- awkward as it is.TerryComment
-
Re: advice on shimming a starter
Having been in the reman starter and alt. business for over twenty years I could go on and on about this one! But here's the short version;
Many starters need to be shimmed, it is a consequence of machining tolerance "stack-up" from the block, crankshaft, transmission, starter nose, ring gear, etc. All those components have outside tolerances and sometimes they add up to bring the starter pinion gear too close, or far away from the ring gear. This is a factor on all pad mount starters.
Shims come in different thicknesses to get the correct mesh of the two gears.
Installing a shim normally will move the starter away from the ring gear and increase clearance, a usual symptom is a whining or grinding noise, and sticking while cranking.
If the starter is already too far away installing a shim on only the outboard bolt will bring the pinion gear closer to the ring gear. Again a symptom is a nasty grinding noise.
Comment
-
Re: advice on shimming a starter
How is this?
Get them in the bubble packs marked HELP! at your FLAPS.TerryComment
-
Re: advice on shimming a starter
Jamie, Can you explain the 1/8" allen wrench method better, I am having trouble following that. I never gave much thought to shim the starter but I can understand the stack up explained above.
Comment
-
Re: advice on shimming a starter
The 1/8 inch allen wrench is used a a gauge to set the distance between the armature shaft (the bendix rides on the shaft) and the flywheel ring gear. You can also use a 1/8 inch rod or drill. Place the gauge on the shaft and use it as a feeler gauge. To much clearence then close the gap, not enough clearence then open uo the gap.
Shim as described by Jamie to get the proper clearence.Comment
-
Re: advice on shimming a starter
Several years ago the starter went out on my son's K-5 Blazer. I had an old starter in the shop that happened to be same part number so I gave it to him to install.
You can imagine how angry I was four months later when we're dropping the transmission to replace a broken fly wheel. He did'nt shim the starter, but it was partially my fault because I did'nt tell him either. He's a professional mechanic now but he was'nt then.
The fly wheel hangs on the wall of my shop as a reminder to everyone. On it reads..."Always shim your starter" (or at least check the clearance).Comment
Comment