67 Judging Questions

[Marco H.]

Hello,
I am currently preparing a 67 427-400 (S/N 1087XX) for Flight Judging. As always a few issues/questions arrise:
-Does this car use a capacitor at the coil?? (Car has standard points ign.)
I am aware of TI cars not having a capacitor at that location. I have
seen 390 HP with std. ign. and capacitor, however I am not certain on a
400 HP?? The original coil bracket gave way for some aftermarket unit to
hold that "Special High Performance Coil" . So no clue there.

-How can I improve the appearance of the reproduction Ign. Shielding Lid
Liner (Insulator)??

-The bolt that holds the starter brace to the engine block; is it a recess
head (as typically used on the oil pan rail) or is it a regular head bolt??
What are common headmarks used in that location?

Any help and advice is greately appreciated.
Marco

[Gene M.]

Re: 67 Judging Questions

Marco
The mylar liner material and plastic rivets can be found at hobby shop or art supply. Use original as pattern and cut out. I redid my original shild since the mylar was all beat up. I also did my other 67 by removing the mylar and polishing it up. Then reheat staked the rivets. You can carefully remove the original plastic rivets and reuse them.

The starter bolts are special indented hex with knurled shanks to keep close fit to holes in the starter nose. Zinc plated and two different lengths.

On the capacitor, master judges differ on this issue with TI BB's. Some indicating the capacitor is there and others say no. Functionally it is for radio noise. I don't know if the same noise is an issue with TI. Sorry no help here. It should be according to the AIM associated with radio option.

[William C.]

Re: 67 Judging Questions

On a non TI car, the capacitor should be installed if the car has a radio.

[Marco H.]

Re: 67 Judging Questions

Thanks Gene and Bill for both your replies.

Gene, it sounds like you are referring to the small block shielding liner (plastic rivets). What are you suggesting for adhesive on the BB liners??
How can I "age" the milar to make it look more "St.Louis" rather than "Corvette Central"??

If anybody has a picture of a nice original liner I could use for reference, would be greately appreciated. So far I always got nicked during judging for having a repro shielding liner. I'm trying to improve that area.

On the starter I was referring to the bolt that attaches the brace to the block. I have the correct starter mounting bolts, however there is little to no reference to the brace bolt.

Thanks everybody in advance for their help.
Marco

[John H.]

Re: 67 Judging Questions

On the starter I was referring to the bolt that attaches the brace to the block. I have the correct starter mounting bolts, however there is little to no reference to the brace bolt.

Marco -

Shouldn't be much different than the SB brace bolt, which is an indented hex-head 5/16"-18 x 1/2" zinc-plated bolt with a captured lockwasher; one of the big-block guys will know.

[William L.]

Re: 67 Judging Questions

Marco; Here's a couple of pictures of my original 67 lid. The small bottom part of my liner was missing so I made it. Hope this helps? Bill

[Gene M.]

Re: 67 Judging Questions

Not much sticks well to mylar it's like trying to glue delrin. Too slick a surface. I would suggest 3M weather strip adhesive. But you will need to let it dry on both surfaces. Then apply another coat to each. It should give more of a yellow color while the original adhesive is more brown. Some electrical applications use the more milky colored mylar years ago as shields. Try different solvents that attack the mylar such as lacquer thinner or enamel reducer. I know lacquer thinner attacks polycarbonate to a milky coloring. Do a little experimenting.

[Marco H.]

Re: 67 Judging Questions

Thanks everyone for their input.
-Great pictures!
-I will try to "massage" the mylar with different solvents.
-It makes sense to use the same brace bolt on the starter on both small
and big block engines.