Removing brake lines from 1970 - NCRS Discussion Boards

Removing brake lines from 1970

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  • Steve G.
    Expired
    • December 12, 2008
    • 192

    Removing brake lines from 1970

    I am looking to replace the hard brake lines. I have the body up about 5" off the frame. I ran into some difficulty with the long line that goes from front to rear. I can't seem to get a wrench on the back end of the line where it attaches. Is there a trick to doing this? Looks like it goes into a junction block that joins three lines - the front to rear line I am trying to remove, a soft line to the left rear wheel, and a solid line that runs under the rear end. I am thinking of removing the soft line, the line under the rear end, and all the bolts holding the front to rear line so that I can take it out with the junction block attached. Has anyone tried that before and, if so, any luck? thanks, Steve
  • Edward J.
    Extremely Frequent Poster
    • September 15, 2008
    • 6940

    #2
    Re: Removing brake lines from 1970

    Steve, What If You Un-hooked The Lines To Left And Right Sides Then Screw The Fitting Onto The Main Line, Making Sure It Really Tight These Lines Have A Tendencey To Leak, Then Re-hook The Other Lines, Maybe Even Remove The Bolts That Retain The Lines To Make It Easier To Start The Fittings. Hope This Helps Ed
    New England chapter member, 63 Convert. 327/340- Chapter/Regional/national Top Flight, 72 coupe- chapter and regional Top Flight.

    Comment

    • Doug J.
      Expired
      • April 1, 2005
      • 140

      #3
      Re: Removing brake lines from 1970

      Steve.....I just sent you a PM

      Comment

      • Joseph K.
        Expired
        • August 26, 2008
        • 407

        #4
        Re: Removing brake lines from 1970

        Replace the gas lines while you have her up in the air....

        Comment

        • Steve G.
          Expired
          • December 12, 2008
          • 192

          #5
          Re: Removing brake lines from 1970

          Thanks for suggestions guys. Yes, I am changing the fuel supply and return lines at same time. I forgot to buy new clips, so I'll have to get those before I put lines back on. Anyone know where to get NOS or good repro's? I see NOS clips periodically on Ebay. Steve

          Comment

          • Michael G.
            Very Frequent User
            • March 2, 2008
            • 485

            #6
            Re: Removing brake lines from 1970

            Don't rely on the end nuts of the brake line to direct the flared end of the line properly into the receiver. These end nuts have a loose fit to the line and can allow you to have the line slightly "cocked" on fastening making it neccessary for you to alter the flared end on tightening to achieve a seal. This usually ends up with a stripped end nut or a leak. Start the end nut in a few threads and then try to adjust the lines aproach to the receiver so that it has a straight -on alignment and a better chance of mating with the receiver block. This is especially important with stainless lines.

            Comment

            • Steve G.
              Expired
              • December 12, 2008
              • 192

              #7
              Re: Removing brake lines from 1970

              Thanks for the advice. I will follow that advice when I re-install the lines. I was going to do that today, but have been thinking since the body is already disconnected from the frame... I could lift it a bit higher, roll the chassis out, and do a better job wire brushing an painting it. If I can find a way to support the body, I will go that route. Otherwise I am going to just install the new fuel and brake lines and drop the body back down. Steve

              Comment

              • Doug J.
                Expired
                • April 1, 2005
                • 140

                #8
                Re: Removing brake lines from 1970

                Originally posted by Michael Gaither (48683)
                Don't rely on the end nuts of the brake line to direct the flared end of the line properly into the receiver. These end nuts have a loose fit to the line and can allow you to have the line slightly "cocked" on fastening making it neccessary for you to alter the flared end on tightening to achieve a seal. This usually ends up with a stripped end nut or a leak. Start the end nut in a few threads and then try to adjust the lines aproach to the receiver so that it has a straight -on alignment and a better chance of mating with the receiver block. This is especially important with stainless lines.
                I found that out the hard way, probably the same way that you found out...

                Comment

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