C3: Changing a Clutch Fork Piviot Stud

[Michael B.]

Has anyone ever changed out a clutch arm ball stud in the car? It looks to me like the transmission just overrlaps the edge of the ball stud. I'm thinking that it may be possible to remove the transmission bolts, mount, and shift rods and be able to rotate or pull the trans back slightly to gain clear access. I hear they can be in there quite tightly and may require some heat to remove so unobstructed access is needed.

I ask because I just replaced my clutch from a B&B style with a tall T/O bearing to a Centerforce Dual diaphram style with a short T/O bearing. I surfaced and re-balanced the flywheel. I just got everything back in and adjusted but the clutch adjustment is all the way out to the end. It works but I'd rather see some adjustment available. The ball stud looked fine for wear so I didn't bother checking it any further.

I'm thinking that a new 3729000 stud may help a little.

[Joe L.]

Re: C3: Changing a Clutch Fork Piviot Stud

Has anyone ever changed out a clutch arm ball stud in the car? It looks to me like the transmission just overrlaps the edge of the ball stud. I'm thinking that it may be possible to remove the transmission bolts, mount, and shift rods and be able to rotate or pull the trans back slightly to gain clear access. I hear they can be in there quite tightly and may require some heat to remove so unobstructed access is needed.

I ask because I just replaced my clutch from a B&B style with a tall T/O bearing to a Centerforce Dual diaphram style with a short T/O bearing. I surfaced and re-balanced the flywheel. I just got everything back in and adjusted but the clutch adjustment is all the way out to the end. It works but I'd rather see some adjustment available. The ball stud looked fine for wear so I didn't bother checking it any further.

I'm thinking that a new 3729000 stud may help a little.

Michael-----

If the ball stud looked ok as far as wear is concerned, I don't think you'll gain anything by replacing it. The original ball stud (assuming that the one you have installed is actually original to the car) was 1-3/8" long. The 3729000 is 1-1/2" long. I don't think this difference is going to gain you anything significant.

If you choose to remove the ball stud, I think you'll find that you'll need to remove the transmission to do it. I don't think that pulling it back is going to gain you enough access. Plus, once you do what you need to do to pull it back, there's little additional work you need to do to completely remove it. I think you will find that you'll need to apply heat to the bellhousing surrounding the stud to remove it. I've never seen a long-installed stud that came out without heat.

[Michael M.]

Re: C3: Changing a Clutch Fork Piviot Stud

My opinion is that the extra 1/8" may actually make a difference from an adjustment leeway standpoint. I also have a Centerforce Dual Friction installed in my 68 BB. I had heard about the lack of adjustment room and tried a longer clutch fork ball stud. In my case, the longer ball stud actually prevented the engine from mating with the bellhousing when I went to re-install it. (I had the engine out of the car but not the tranny).

I can't remember the length of the ball stud I ended up using, but it won't hurt to try it (just don't force the issue if the tranny won't completely mate up flush to the bellhousing) and that extra 1/8" may multiply into additional adjustment room at the firewall.

[John H.]

Re: C3: Changing a Clutch Fork Piviot Stud

I just got everything back in and adjusted but the clutch adjustment is all the way out to the end. It works but I'd rather see some adjustment available.

You have lots of adjustment available - as the clutch wears, the swivel and jam nuts will move rearward on the rod (toward the firewall) to re-adjust, not forward.

[Ridge K.]

Re: C3: Changing a Clutch Fork Piviot Stud

Michael, I believe you will need to remove the transmission. As mentioned, the clutch fork ball stud that has been installed in place for decades, is usally a little tough to get out.
As Joe mentioned, heat is helpful to loosening them up, but I have found that a two foot cheater pipe on the correct 3/8th allen wrench will break them free in 98% of the time. The allen goes in far enough, one doesn't really have to worry about a strip-out of the head. I've broken dozens, and dozens free with this cheater set-up.
I've attached a photo of the two sizes side by side. On the longer one, the common wear to the head in a well used car can be seen. The shorter one is NOS. Also a photo of my patented "cheater" pipe. I will authorize your use of my patent (ha-ha)
Good luck. Ridge